| Author | Message | ||
     Skifastbadly |
I thought about putting this into the other thread about rough running but since it's temperature independent, I figured I'd start this and see where it got me. I have an 07 Uly with 29K. Plugs and plug wires were replaced about a year (7k) miles ago. ECM replaced four or five months ago. So, I was riding it last Sunday, and I started sensing that things weren't *quite* right. It felt a bit like it was surging, running a little rougher than normal. At this point the bike was well up to operating temp. Ambient air temp was about 70. I was out in the country, so I could rev it up, and it ran up the RPMs just fine. But at constant throttle it seemed to be stumbling...and it also sounded a little louder than normal. I checked the headers right away, I'm paranoid about those after my troubles last summer but all seems tight. When I got it home it idled REALLY rough, and wouldn't keep running. This morning I went out and thought I'd take it to work, but right away it felt wrong, it hesitated, felt like it was at half power, wouldn't accellerate smoothly...and this was when it was cold. I turned around and garaged it. So, what's that all sound like to you? I've read that the air intake seals could cause this but I thought I'd collect your ideas before I started chasing gremlins this weekend. Naturally, the only good day weatherwise is supposed to be Saturday, so by the time I get this sussed, it'll be raining. Thanks | ||
| Tootal |
You are correct, an intake leak is first on the list. Also I have read that a loose battery connection can give you gremlins also. Make sure the cable is tight, not just the bolt. If bolts tight and cable is loose then add a washer to the bolt as it's bottomed out in the threads. I use WD40 for testing for air leaks. That's an easy job just pull your scoops off and fire it up and spray the intake area from both sides and listen for any change in rpm. Any change then you have a leak. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
So, anybody here ever figure out how to do a leak test and then what to do if it's positive? I've pulled the left scoop, the airbox cover, and whatever you call the plastic plate that sits over the intake, but it appears that the intake itself is behind the coil, and I can't figure out how to reach it to perform a leak test without removing the coil, which of course would make it impossible to perform the test. | ||
| Tootal |
Ski, Don't pull the air box only the left side scoop and the plate or scoop on the right side, depending on if you have the comfort kit installed. The top air box should be left on so none of the spray can get to the intake and give you a false positive. When you can see where the intake/throttle body contacts the heads you will also see the two bolt flanges that hold it there. With the bike running spray WD 40 or brake cleaner etc. at the flanges. both wear they touch the head and where they touch the Throttle body. If the rpm changes then there is a leak and you will have to change the intake seals. Then you will need to remove the air box. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
d'oh! Should have asked first. Thanks, I'll put it together and spray it. Thanks, Tootal. | ||
| Ourdee |
Don't spray it with brake cleaner! I would use propane instead of WD-40. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or something *designed* to go into an engine....CARB cleaner. When's the last time it got a TPS reset? | ||
| Tootal |
Brake cleaner evaporates quicker than carb cleaner, that's why I like it better. We're talking about a little leak, you're not spraying it down the TB. If you use propane put an appropriate size rubber hose on the torch head to make it easier to use. All these methods work fine as long as you put your cigarette out first! | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Ratbuell, Last TPS reset was uh...well, I guess it's been 7K miles? I thought about that, but the performance deteriorated rather quickly, and I would have expected it to slowly degrade if that were the case. Thoughts? | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Ok so finally got back to it today...I replaced the airbox cover, I hooked up a piece of hose to my small propane torch, started the bike. Ran rough. Turned on the gas, held it up to both sides where the intake goes to the cylinders...no difference. Both sides, several times, several locations, not a difference in how the bike ran. So, it appears it's not the intake seals, which is ok with me, because they look like a bitch to replace. I read the TPS using ECMSpy and it's at 5.1 which is at the outside of, but within range. No CEL, no trouble codes. So, it's something else. I'm thinking maybe plugs? I'll pull them tomorrow. I hate to think I'm going to have to take this to the dealer because he charges $90/hour, and it'll probably take him three hours to figure out what's wrong. Any further hints greatly appreciated. | ||
| Xcephasx |
also, if your bike is louder than normal, check your exhaust flanges. if they're loose, they'll let noise out, and air in (which can make your bike run rough). | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Yeah, I had the flanges come off last summer, it was a long story, that was the first thing I checked. They're fine. The bike keeps dying at idle, when I get back home (I travel a lot) I'll check the plugs and wires next. Weird that no codes are being thrown. |
