| Author | Message | ||
     Andygreenegrass |
I recently purchased a 2006 Ulysses. One of the big reasons I was attracted to this particular bike was the shear size of the thing--at 6'5", I have a hard time finding a motorcycle that fits. So, after picking up the bike I ordered some Precision Engineering 2" drop pegs for some extra leg room (My knees were still fairly high on the stock pegs with the tall seat). I installed the pegs yesterday--they're great. Here's the issue: The shifter is way too high. It was actually too high with the stock pegs, but now it's ridiculous. So, I adjusted the shifter. I dropped it about as far as the shifter linkage would let me. I hop up on the bike, start the engine, pull in the clutch and attempt to shift into 2nd (from 1st)--it won't move. I reach down and pull the lever up with my hand (while grabbing the clutch with my right hand)--It shifts, but I really had to pull on it hard. I guess my question is, how much adjustment do we really have? How low can the shifter be adjusted and still function? Pictures would be helpful if you've successfully lowered the thing. | ||
| Bikelit |
Mine adjusted down with no problem. Shifting is fine.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Andy - how did you adjust it? Did you use the threaded rod adjustment between the eyelets? (the end with the groove is reverse thread - loosen both locknuts and just spin the shaft, and it'll spread or retract for you). Or did you pull the shifter eye off the splined shift shaft and reposition it? If you did #1, you shouldn't have any issues. If you did #2, you might have put the eye out of line, losing leverage. Put it back, and do #1 instead. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Two ways: You can remove the pinch bolt and rotate the linkage on the splines, Or you can loosen the locknuts on the link rod, and adjust the rod length. The first method is a coarse method, and the second is more adjustable for fine tuning. Important: It is always best to have all linkages form as close to a 90* angle to work best ! Edit:I guess I don't type as fast as Ratbuell ! (Message edited by Florida_lime on September 02, 2010) | ||
| Andygreenegrass |
Thanks for the replies. I was just outside fooling around with it some more. Originally I repositioned the pivot on the splined shaft in addition to adjusting the length of the linkage (I think I screwed up the first part). I think I've got it in a position that will work for now. However, the lower I make the shifter, the closer it gets to being perpendicular to my foot. I'd really like to be able to lower the pivot point of the shift lever. Has anyone modified that bracket to lower the pivot point? (Message edited by andygreenegrass on September 02, 2010) | ||
| Tdiddy |
If some one made a kit with a lower shifter bracket and a longer shifter linkage I'd buy it. | ||
| Tootal |
I'm 6'4" with a 37" inseam so I own this bike for the same reasons. I have the same set up and made the same mistakes. Make sure, as mentioned above, the pivot points are at 90 degrees. Do all your adjustments with the threaded rods. Mine works fine now. | ||
| Teeps |
The photo below shows how my Uly shifter is adjusted.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
90 degrees on the bottom (actual shifter lever) is not as important - you have a 4" long lever providing torque. Use that to your advantage, and adjust it to where the toepeg fits your foot/boot properly. The important one for 90 degrees is the top one, on the shift shaft. You only have a 1" long lever there, so having it out of line (i.e. 45 or 135 degrees) gives more of a "glancing blow", or a ricochet-style action, to the shift rod. 90 degrees gives the best force into the shift rod because you have the "longest" lever that way. |
