| Author | Message | ||
     Matchanu |
Battery isn't charging. Did a test on the charging system, only making 20 volts AC, should be much higher. Anything else I can consider before pulling the stator? This is going to be a very expensive fix. | ||
| Ronmold |
How many volts DC is it making? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm not sure this is your problem given your low AC voltage, but by far the most common failure point in the charging system is the #77 connector. See here for instructions on checking and fixing it: https://docs.google.com/View?revision=_latest&doci d=d4rbxwr_20dq5khf&hl=en It's not too hard to fix. You can buy an updated connector kit from your dealer for a better fix, or many people just cut the connectors off and join the wires with water pump connectors or soldering/heat shrink tubing. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Matchanu I think you are correct when you unplug the alternator stator plug the ac output at 2000 rpm should be 32-40 volt ac across sockets 1-2 repeat across 2-3 1-3 If you had the correct volts there then next check would be the 77 or a bad regulator. Ive been there done that thing the second time the ole buell screwed up another vacation. | ||
| Matchanu |
#77 connector looks fine, I may change it anyway but it doesn't explain the low voltage output. I think this has been a progressive problem that has gotten a lot worse recently. I'll start with the #77 connector, couldn't hurt. I am having an issue with some sort of short in the spark plug wires when it rains, bike bogs and feels like it about to run out of gas. I have a 4 day ride scheduled at the end of the month, I hope I can fix this by then. | ||
| Matchanu |
Read the suggestions on this site, took the inspection plate off the trans gear and took a sniff, holly crap, what a REEK! Stator is fried, 15K on the clock. May as well do the holy trinity now. I already bought the battery so its a new VR and stator change. Dammit! | ||
| Ronmold |
Look at the bright side, at least you can fix it yourself. Do you run syn in the primary? | ||
| Hughlysses |
It's not that bad of a job. I'm sure the hardest thing will be achieving the ~250 ft-lbs recommended torque on the crankshaft nut. If you don't own a torque wrench that goes that high, you can usually borrow or rent one from your local auto parts store that does. | ||
| Matchanu |
I just changed over to synth less than 1000K before the failure. I don't think this was the cause. I should have heeded the warnings. Power surges were burning out the PIAA Xeon bulbs in the main light, but works fine in the brights. Hard starts got progressivly worse, riding the rain caused a bog down of power to no power. Could be a short in the spark plug wires that over taxed the VR/stator. I odered the parts from american sport bike, should be at my house this week. I have a decent tourque wrench but I don't think it goes up to 250, I may have to rent one at autozone. Do I need something to lock the gears? | ||
| Towpro |
Is Synth a type of oil, or are you thinking all synthetic oil could cause this problem? I have only heard the idea that GL-5 oils were causing this problem. I know GL-5 has something in it (phosphorus?)that will "plate out" during higher heat (like in your trans). This was a well known problem in the NV-4500 trans Dodge was using in the late 90's diesel trucks. what ever it is that "Plates out" only sticks to bronze (syncros) and copper (stators). Now if it was my bike, I think I would think about throwing in the lower ratio primary parts while I was in there  . | ||
| Hughlysses |
Is Synth a type of oil, or are you thinking all synthetic oil could cause this problem? I have only heard the idea that GL-5 oils were causing this problem. GL-5 gear oils are the only oils that have been reported here to cause stator problems. There is some evidence that 77 connector problems can cause stator problems. Your replacement stator comes with a new plug and matching mating plug to be added to your existing wiring harness to eliminate the problem. | ||
| Matchanu |
My #77 connector looks good, almost brand new. I wouldn't mind changing it for added security, but I don't think that was the issue. Changing the primary would take a lot more than what I have available to be. Besides, I like the high end on this bike and 99% of my riding is on the slab anyway. If I wanted to do single track roads I would have gotten a dirt bike. This is my "best of all worlds" bike, daily commuter, long hauler, some off-road and handles twisties like a hooligan bike. I still love this bike regardless of this set back. Besides, I like tinkering with it anyway, so this gives me a chance to dive in and play with her guts a bit. | ||
| Hughlysses |
My #77 connector looks good, almost brand new. It probably wasn't the cause, but you'll get the new connector with your new stator anyway. My 77 connector had the tiniest burned spots on the lugs (I'm talking pen point sized) and it resulted in ZERO charge going to the battery. (Message edited by Hughlysses on August 16, 2010) | ||
| Andymnelson |
Uh...nope. You will have all of the parts off the bike already, once you get to the stator. | ||
| Matchanu |
All the same, I don't have an issue with the gearing right now. Besides, I want to get this fixed and on the road ASAP. I don't like driving a car anymore. Just found out the parts from American Sport Bike are not in stock, so I'll have to wait, which completely sucks. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Check with some of our other vendor/dealers; somebody might have them. | ||
| Matchanu |
I hate to be lazy but do you have a link to the other vendors? | ||
| Matchanu |
Never mind, I'm an idiot. found it. | ||
| Matchanu |
Okay, changed the stator and VR. For the most part, straight forward stuff, but I have to say a very poor decision on the bolts holding the stator in place. Not near deep or big enough to allow for any kind of torque, ended up using an angle grinder to put slots in them so I could use a screwdriver to take them out. Ended up putting slots in the new ones to get them on with reasonable torque. New stator/VR works great now. |
