| Author | Message | ||
     Ryat79 |
I have started hearing a groaning or grinding noise from the back wheel of the bike. I only hear it when the bike is hot and it is only during part of the wheel rotation. For example, after a ride I turn-off the bike and go to push it into the garage, as the rear wheel rotates I here the groan for about a 1/4 of the wheel turn, for the other portion of the rear wheel rotation it makes no noise. The noise is pretty consistent where it occurs during the wheel rotation. Also the noise only happens when the bike is hot, when I try to isolate the noise before a ride, there is no noise. So does this sound like the wheel bearing? The bike is a 2008 X, I think I have the orange bearing and 14k miles thanks ray | ||
| Andymnelson |
Yup. Remove the wheel, and see how the bearings feel when you turn them by hand. I bet they either have a very rough spot or they can not be turned by hand at all. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 2008 beat yours! (Made it to 16,000 before it filled up with water) | ||
| Ryat79 |
OK, i just took the bike to Cowboy HD for a 15K service and to check out the grinding noise from the back tire. They said they couldn't find anything wrong, I am not sure if they tested it with the bike hot which I told them was required to cause the sound. I get the bike back tomorrow, so I will see if the grinding is still there. Any other ideas what might be causing the noise, is there anything I could check that a service tech might have missed? Thanks | ||
| Methed |
Something loose or askew grinding on the brake rotor, or maybe a warped rotor? It's definitely something that would worsen with heat. Only other thing I can think of is an axle or spacer distortion or misalignment of some sort with the rear wheel.  (Message edited by methed on July 29, 2010) | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
My orange bearings went at 14k miles. Probably wouldn't hurt to change the hub water either. | ||
| Travisl |
Not to high jack this thread, but on a wheel bearing note, has anyone here used the SKF 6006-2RS wheel bearings as a replacement for the stock ones that seem to be so problematic? Is this more of a bad bearing issue, or just plain bad design from the get go? | ||
| Mnrider |
Mine has always made that sound when I push it in the garage,Sounds like the belt on the pulleys to me. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Not to high jack this thread, but on a wheel bearing note, has anyone here used the SKF 6006-2RS wheel bearings as a replacement for the stock ones that seem to be so problematic? Is this more of a bad bearing issue, or just plain bad design from the get go? Yes, several people replaced the OEM's with SKF's. At least one had a failure with fairly low miles afterwards. The general consensus is that the failures are due to a combination of factors, mainly the bearings being close to their load limit and moisture/contamination getting into them. The 2010 rear wheel addresses this by upsizing the bearings, adding a third bearing, and by adding external dust seals. Not cheap (~$400 for the parts), but an easy upgrade to the earlier bikes. | ||
| Evileye |
I've made it rule to change the bearings every time I change my tires...last tire set lasted 15k miles...mich pilot roadII...I also use the SKF bearings....cost more than factory but after the last change they looked much better after 15 than the oem did at 4k...just a thought... | ||
| Mnrider |
Just called NAPA they have the SKF bearings in stock $37.20 each. | ||
| Rwven |
I had my SKF's go bad in about the same time the stockers did. Granted, they weren't as bad as the stockers but they were definitely getting "notchy". At that point I said "screw it" and sprung for a 2010 wheel. I'm also on my second set of front wheel bearings. I used the SKF's there also, so far so good. | ||
| Al_lighton |
I think Hughlysses pretty much nailed it. Changing your bearings with every tire swap might work if you're getting 15K out or a set of tires, but I typically am lucky to get 5K. You only get a certain number of bearing swaps in these cast aluminum wheels. Each time the bearing is R&R'd, the wheel bores are traumatized a little. After several swaps, they just don't hold the bearings as well(or at all). I've got a few roached bore wheels at the shop that I haven't thrown away, but at this time, the fix is more expensive than a wheel. Someday, that might not be the case, so I don't throw them away. Besides the likely bearing trauma, that is why it is important to NOT just hammer bearings in and out. If you beat them in, you WILL "walk" them in with a little bit of side-to-side motion, and this is harder on the bores than a nice straight linear pressing action. | ||
| Teeps |
Al_lighton Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2010 I've got a few roached bore wheels at the shop that I haven't thrown away, but at this time, the fix is more expensive than a wheel. Someday, that might not be the case, so I don't throw them away. With that said; do you think there is enough material to bore the holes out for larger O.D. bearings and/or convert to 2010 specifications? | ||
| Dmmblaze |
Is there a bearing press that isn't to expensive that would let one avoid the "walk" in Al referred to? How about removing the bearing to minimize damage? | ||
| Dio |
The pre '10 wheel casting is different in the bearing bore area, and probably wouldn't be capable of accepting a larger bearing. Some on this board with a machinist background have come to this conclusion. As far as inexpensive bearing presses go, the best way is to have machined drivers that support both the inner and outer races together as the bearing is drawn into the wheel bore. | ||
| Billyo |
I only got 6800 miles out of the rear bearings on my 09. Many of those miles were 2 up and lots of highway miles. The tire is shot also. The dealer ordered a 2010 wheel but has no idea how long it will take. How long are everyone's front bearings lasting? | ||
| Gamdh |
'06 with original (orange) front bearings, 58K and still going... | ||
| Ronmold |
Al, couldn't you find a way to knurl the oversized bearing bore for a snug fit? |
