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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through August 06, 2010 » '10 wheel's on « Previous Next »

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Ronmold
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the new '10 wheel on back, my Uly now has axle seals, just like my old '72 Honda!
Decided to carefully press in my own bearings, Harley wanted like $85 to do it. Big threaded rod and some huge grade 8 washers did the job. Bike now rides like, well... just like it did before! Old wheel w/ almost new Sync will be on Ebay tomorrow.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mines still in the box waiting for the tire on the old wheel to wear out. Metzeler R6 is doing well so I'll ride her till she's done and then put the new wheel and the Michelin PR2's on. My guess is right before Buelltoberfest! Anybody know the date yet for this year?
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Pso
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Me same as Tootal. Same PR2 also. Then like Ronmold 06 wheel with black bearing seals on this board and ebay. I did have Al at American Sport bike press in bearings because he knows what he is doing. I just do not trust myself nor a hardley dealer with this type of work. I am on the other hand willing to learn how to press in bearings on some elses wheel.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





I made this up for the steering head bearings but it's the same design as Harley's tool. The brass parts will vary in diameter according to your wheel bearings. I made one up for the stock 06 rear wheel bearings but the 2010 bearing are bigger in diameter, from what I understand, so I'll have to make up some new ones. The secret to pulling in bearings is to only pull on the outside race. Putting pressure on the inside race could damage the bearing. Using a heavy flat washer that contacts the outer race is ok as long as the pressure needed to pull it in doesn't cause the washer to flex and put more pressure on the inner race. If using flat washers, use thick ones and more than one if you have them.
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Ronmold
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The pulley side bearing "floats" in the bore, you need to put equal pressure on the outer and inner races as you want it to stop when the inner contacts the spacer. If you don't seat it enough, torquing the axle will side load the bearings possibly causing premature failure. Too much seating (just driving the outer) will cause the opposite unwanted side load. My spacer was quite tight between the inners and would move around if tapped with a dowel rod but could not be moved with my finger. Sadly, I really wouldn't trust my Hog dealer to do these right, especially considering their reputation (mentioned in a few recent posts here) for messing stuff up. True on flat washers bending but the 3 grade 8's I used had NO flex.

(Message edited by ronmold on July 24, 2010)
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 06:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

True on flat washers bending but the 3 grade 8's I used had NO flex.


No, I guess they didn't! That's what I'm talking about.
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Teeps
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ronmold Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010

Got the new '10 wheel on back, my Uly now has axle seals, just like my old '72 Honda!


I just finished installing a 2010 wheel today too.
I bought the wheel from American Sport Bike and chose to let Al install the bearings for $20. For that price I didn't want to fool with it.

Thanks again to Al & Joanne.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The secret to pulling in bearings is to only pull on the outside race. Putting pressure on the inside race could damage the bearing.

Tootal- there is a danger from pulling on the outside race only as well. This works fine for installing the first bearing, but when you pull in the second bearing you pull it in until the inner races of both bearings contact the wheel spacer. If your rig presses against the outer race only, you could damage the bearings by loading the inner races in the opposite direction when they contact the spacer. Using something that presses against both the inner and outer races seems to be the safest way. }
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Mnrider
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron where you able to get the complete wheel kit or did you have to order the wheel and axle bearing kit.
I'm planning to install the '10' wheel this winter.
That's a great looking installer Tootall,looks like that will press the inner and outer races evenly.

(Message edited by mnrider on July 26, 2010)
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Towpro
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is a link to the directions on installing the bearings in the 2010 rim.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/2010RearWheel.pdf

I seem to think there is a flange on both sides that the bearings outer races are seated onto.
Then if the manufacture machines the inside spacer to the correct length everything will be fine.

But I could be wrong.


(Message edited by towpro on July 26, 2010)
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Motorbike
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have not experienced a Buell wheel bearing failure. Yet. Not many miles on mine though. But I do believe that a lot of these fails are caused by improper installation of the bearings to the wheel and also improperly torquing the axle when installing the wheel.

When these wheels and spacers are manufactured, there is always very slight tolerances in specs. One can never assume they are all exactly the same. Thus, you must follow a specific procedure to install bearings properly. If anyone tells you they will just hammer in some new bearings for you, grab your wheel and run away as hard and fast as you can! I'll bet the word "hammer" is never mentioned in the service manual.

The biggest mistake I see here is that some people believe they should install both bearings so the outer race is seated in the wheel. This is wrong. The outer race of one bearing can be seated in the wheel but the other should have both races pressed in evenly until the inner race just contacts the spacer. The outer race of that bearing may not be completely seated in the wheel hub but that is OK. If you continue to press the outer race until it is seated, you will be putting a heavy side load on the bearing and it will surely fail, no doubt.

If you have a hard time believing this, please do a search and read what Al Lighton of American Sportbike has to say about this. A lot of people trust what he says, and rightfully so. The man knows what he is talking about. Thanks.
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Barkbuster
Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yippie!Got a call Monday that my wheel came in. Took it back to Hal`s and they took my spare off and put the new 2010 unit on yesterday.A big thanks goes to Hal`s again for letting me use the bike while I waited for the parts. 2000 miles and 2 trips would have been missed if it just sat around in the shop. l8r bb
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Oldwesterncowboy
Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DIY
4-6 Grade 8 washers(just larger than bearings?)
1 large bolt
1 large nut



How do remove the old ones?
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