| Author | Message | ||
     Yournamehere |
I've been searching this evening for a step by step primary oil change instructional/comprehensive/hold my hand/I'm scared to 'f' up the only thing I own that's paid for/I'm bored and my bike and garage are clean/I need something to do thread. How do ya do it? and what oil do I need to have? Please and Thanks | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I usually prefer to pull the top inspection plate and then remove the drain plug (best if warm). I then prefer to fill the primary, via the inspection plate, with one quart of Formula+. After noticing that I have filled the primary with the plug out, I allow the primary to finish the power flush process while I travel to the local HD shop to acquire one more quart of Formula+. Replace the drain plug THEN fill the primary with Formula+. You might want to check the primary chain tension as well as inspect the lip around the clutch inspection cover (these have been know to crap out) while you have everything apart. | ||
| Hughlysses |
You need one quart of your preferred primary lube. The factory recommends Formula+; that's what I've always used and it works well. Others use the same lube they run in the engine and that works OK. Ride the bike until it's warm. Get a drain pan, place under the primary, and remove the plug. Be careful you do NOT mistake the primary chain adjustment screw for the drain plug. Clean the particles off the magnet on the end of the drain plug (some debris is normal). If the O-ring on the plug is OK, you can reuse it. Put a little teflon pipe thread sealant on the plug (some people skip that step), and reinstall it. It just needs to be snug; don't get carried away or you'll strip the threads. Adding the fresh oil can be a little tricky. You can remove the clutch cover from the primary, hold the bike approximately level, and carefully pour one quart in. I use a small cardboard "trough" to get the oil in. The clutch cover gasket is good for at least 2 or 3 cycles without replacing. Rather than removing the clutch cover, some people remove the primary chain inspection cover (small cover with two screws near the top of the primary cover) and add the oil through that. That's all there is to it. | ||
| Jphish |
Hmmm - No filters to mess with & only 1 bolt (about even with end of shifter, and underneath) to remove to get to that slippery fluid. Very simple - hard to screw up. The owners manual has pretty good instructions. And... since you have to remove the clutch cover to fill it, (1 Qt) may as well check clutch adj while your at it. Dont loose the spring or lockplate when you take cover off...and, if youre careful you can reuse gasket. I just use the 20/50 AMS oil that goes in my crankcase. Double duty oil. | ||
| Verdad |
On the subject of F'in this up, don't know if I did something wrong/missed a step, but when I did this during my 10k mile service, I forgot the whole "level bike" thing. I popped the clutch cover off (with my bike on the kick stand), and treated myself to a nice huge oil puddle in my formerly clean garage. That being said, take heed of the "level" portion. I know I will next time. Russ | ||
| Ratbuell |
Step 0.5 - buy the shop manual. It's the best thing you can get for your Buell. 1. Ride bike till hot (10 minutes or so - and RIDE, don't just let it sit and idle). 2. Park upright (use a stand, or boards under the kickstand - rear wheel off the ground helps with step 3) 3. pull primary inspection cover (the upper one). Check your primary chain tension while you're there, adjust as required. I keep mine adjusted so at the tightest spot, there is less than a chain-width of slack in it. Adjustment is done with the large nut on the allen-head screw on the bottom. Loosen the nut with an allen key in the screw to hold it in place. Turn the allen in to tighten the chain; out to loosen. Hold the allen in place, tighten the locknut. 4. pull drain plug, allow to drain. You can reverse steps 3 and 4 if you want, but I always get oil on my hands if I'm adjusting the chain while the case is draining. 5. reinstall drain plug after all fluid is out, and debris is removed from magnet on inside of plug. 6. if you ride short hops, pull the clutch cover and clean the condensation milkshake off of it. I've used Hylomar on an older gasket in a pinch to get it to reseal till next time. while that cover is off, do a clutch adjust (cable, AND clutch pack). Loosen clutch cable at adjuster (under the boot, in front of the engine, in the area near the oil filter). Loosen the jamnut, and screw the adjuster IN to make it shorter, to remove tension on the cable itself. Turn the screw on the clutch pack in until it bottoms lightly (do NOT crank on it!), then back it out 1/4 turn, then use the cable adjuster to set your clutch lever tension where you want it. LUBE YOUR CLUTCH CABLE while you're in there, I douse mine with dri-slide at the adjuster and at the lever while the casing is loose enough to get the applicator in there. 7. I've used a cutoff piece of an old oil quart container as my "funnel" and refilled the primary through the chain inspection cover, or you can refill it through the clutch cover. 1 quart Syn3 for me and my Uly; makes it easy, everything in the garage runs Syn3 so no chance of grabbing the "wrong" stuff  8. Ride 9. Smile 10. Repeat. Now, go get that manual. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
I use the inspection cover as well. Save my self from taking the clutch cover off, and replacing that gasket. I don't replace the inspection cover gasket either, have changed the fluid out twice, and no leaks. | ||
| Firemanjim |
1 quart is if the trans was dry,refill with 28 ozs, or to bottom of clutch basket., | ||
| Towpro |
I would recommend getting replacement drain plug O rings first. My 07 uses them, but the parts guy was confused because the parts book showed something changed in 07. Also get the thread sealant people here prefer. (Message edited by towpro on July 21, 2010) |
