Author |
Message |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:48 pm: |
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Is there any way to troubleshoot the engine light with a laptop and software? My engine light comes on after 10seconds of idling and stays on. The bike runs fine, fuel consumption is good, lots of power. 07 XB12X |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:54 pm: |
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Service manual gives a listing for error codes read by running a jumper between pin 1 and 2 of the ECM connector plug. Count the flashes and look for the code in the book. |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:02 pm: |
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Since you got a laptop, pickup a ECMspy cable from American Sport Bike. In the mean time jump the pins to get it to display a code that can be looked up in the service manual. I bet its your exhaust actuator. |
Snoman
| Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 08:25 am: |
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That 10 second delay sounds familiar. My '07 blew 3 fuses during a 10K mile trip recently. The fuse for the horn and brake light apparently feeds the exhaust actuator too. The first time my check engine light came on I brought the bike into the H-D dealer in Smithers, BC. They've never been a Buell dealer, but were more than willing to plug into my bike to see what was going on. The code that came up was the exhaust actuator. Since the bike seemed to be running fine, I kept going. I had also noticed that by horn had quit working, but I blamed that on all the rain we'd been riding through (I had a bunch of electrical ghosts surface during this trip). A couple days later by buddy finally asks if I ever used my brake. That's when I realized the fuse had blown. Replaced it and wouldn't you know - everything worked! For a couple thousand more miles anyways... Long story short - check your horn or brake light. Anyone else have problems with this fuse / circuit? Been good for a couple thousand miles now, but who knows when it will go again. |
Untamed
| Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 03:27 pm: |
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CEL problem sounds familiar except I never blew a fuse. Next time the CEL comes on honk the horn. If it does not honk, your brake light and exhaust valve actuator are not working as well. Here is a link to how I fixed mine. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/578348.html?1278461301 It's in the Knowledge Vault electrical section titled That pesky CEL... |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 10:51 am: |
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OK I have made a jumper and got code 21 (exhaust actuator) Is there any reason not to operate the bike with the actuator NFG ? Most of my use is touring @ 100KM/H. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 11:18 am: |
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It will be fine to ride, the actuator is not a mission critical part. |
Motorbike
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 11:33 am: |
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Timmins xb12x, I have exactly the same problem with my 08 XT. Thanks to this great forum, I figured out what was wrong 5 minutes after the CEL came on. I did the actuator cycle test while watching the cable at the muffler end, it did not move. I will admit though, I had to have my lovely assistant turn the key on while I held the throttle open and watched the cable. I took a day off Friday and rode it all day, 436 miles, some interstate and also back roads of Wisconsin. Bike ran just fine and mileage even seemed to increase a little. I just temporarily put a small piece of black tape over the CEL so it would not distract me while riding. My new actuator is ordered and should be in this week. The part number has been superseded to a new number and, from what I've been told, is an improved part. Thanks. |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 12:15 pm: |
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Thanks for the help Froggy and Motorbike, is there any chance the actuator can be freed up, do they get road grime, carbon and seize or does the electric servo crap out? I am 800KM from the nearest dealer so most repairs are performed at home. |
Motorbike
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 12:41 pm: |
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I took my the back off of my old actuator and found that the gear teeth did not actually strip, as I was expecting to find. I found that one of the plastic pieces on a plastic gear had deformed, almost as if it was starting to melt. This piece is connected to a shaft which protrudes out the top side of the actuator. The shaft is then attached to a small pulley-like piece that, when rotated, pulls on the cable. Someone could probably cobble it back together but mine is under warranty and the new part is supposed to be improved so why mess with it? Thanks. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, July 26, 2010 - 12:56 pm: |
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Timmins, some actuators had plastic gears inside that can either strip, melt, or become malformed in some way. The replacements have metal gears and that should prevent this from happening again. Not much you can do to prevent it, some have suggested lubricating the actuator cable the same way you would the clutch cable. I don't see how it could hurt. |
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