| Author | Message | ||
     Snowscum |
Hope you guys have some ideas. I took it to get new sneakers and came away with it dragging and no rear brake. Took the caliper off and took the torques off the axle and pinch bolt. Re torqued everything to the book. Took the brake pads out and inspected and put it all back together and torqued. It still drags like the piston isnt retracting. Is there anything else to look for? I checked the disk and its blazin hot after a 10 mile ride and I still feel it dragging. I not sure if there is a part missing behind the piston that contacts the outside brake pad that maybe they forgot? The service manual doesnt show enough description of the rear compared to the front. Thanks in advance. I want to ride!! | ||
| Snowscum |
Froggy???? | ||
| Froggy |
Don't look at me, you are the one that screwed it up!  | ||
| Snowscum |
Lol No I took it to a shop to have new tires put on and now the brake sticks. Thought you might have some info. I guess not? | ||
| Cpilot |
I created the same problem when I changed the brake pads without cleaning the pins on the caliber. The caliper bound so tight that it wouldn't release. The caliper should be somewhat loose so it can move in and out on the pins. I didn't catch it soon enough, and that is why I have a scalped rear brake disk :-(.... | ||
| Snowscum |
Thanks Cpilot. I will check that after work. I took the pads off and reinstalled but it seemed like everything was ok. Again thanks for the tip. | ||
| Etennuly |
Another thing that can happen is the pistons may have been built up with dirt and grime. When they get pushed back in to make room to put it all back together they can hang in their bores. I would take the thing back to your tire guy first. If no help there, take the caliper off and clean it with brake cleaner, a small brush for the tight spots, and some compressed air. Make sure the brake cleaner does not get on any parts of the bike! | ||
| Jphish |
Had same issue. Cleaned pins and put on VERY light coat of silicone grease. Problem solved. Also, apparently floating calipers have tendency to sometimes 'sink'. A light tap on pins with rubber mallet, will sometimes help set them free. | ||
| Jlnance |
What Jphish said. The rear brake uses some kind of mechanical magic so that it clamps down on both sides even though there is only one piston. It does this by having parts slide on pins that are on the bottom of the two bolts which are on the outside of the caliper. Sometimes the pins get stuck and don't want to move back into place, particularly if they need to move a long way like they do when you change pads. Remove those two bolts, grease the pins, and reassemble the caliper. This will probably fix your problem. PS: If you're like me and have to buy metric sockets to remove the bolts, do note that they aren't the same size. <blush> | ||
| Snowscum |
Lol. Ok I will order some. I went out and played around with it tonight. You guys sure there is nothing between the brass piston and the back of the pad? | ||
| Jphish |
Well...as I recall, there is a very thin SS backing plate that fits between piston & back of brake pad - but many guys toss it. Apparently not essential. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
The "no rear brake" notation has me thinking. Did you try pulling the pads and pressing the piston in manually? Thumb pressure should work, might try a C-clamp if not. Should not take much force. Brake reservoir is not overfilled? Too much fluid in the res. could prevent the piston from returning. You did get the pads set correctly, one on each side of the disc? Both pads on the piston side would cause the problems that you describe. Mark SE AZ (Message edited by mark_weiss on July 14, 2010) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
This would seem to be a no-no to most but I took off my rear brake reservoir probably at least 2 years ago when I installed the heat deflectors that came out with the 08' bikes. All I have is the tube plugged where it normally would plug into the reservoir. My back brake has never been a problem and has never required any maintenance. I took a photo but the camera battery went kaput so I can't show it yet. Anyway, I reasoned that the reservoir is under no pressure and the tube also acts as a reservoir, just not as much but apparently for my bike it is enough. One of these days I'll bleed the rear brake and reinstall the original reservoir. | ||
| Snowscum |
I installed the new pads and that did the trick. Had to loosen up the 14mm bolt to get the new pads in and I think it could of been part of the problem but I think you cant go down that far on the rears otherwise the piston wont bounce back. Going for a shake down ride here when it cools down. Rolling it around in the garage seems to be fine. | ||
| Jphish |
Let us know final disposition of the 'fix'. | ||
| Snowscum |
Well new pads didnt do the trick. I went ahead and cleaned and lubed the 14mm pin and pad pin. Fluid level is where its supposed to be. If you look from the back at the pads the inside one is rubbing at the top of the disk and the outside(piston side) is rubbing on the bottom of the disk. The disk is still a little purple from rubbing previously. It almost looks like something is bent but how could that happen cause someone changed a tire? I have no idea what they did to it. I was gona try and take a picture later and post it if you guys cant visualize it. After lubing everything I bolted it back up with out the pads and its free to move. The pads are not parallel with the disk. Another thing is I dont have hardly any braking power. What a bitch. Might have to replace the whole caliper over a tire change..... I mean these things are pretty simple. (Message edited by snowscum on July 17, 2010) | ||
| Jphish |
well hell - it's possible to bend a rotor...but ya gotta work at it. Do you see any obvious 'marks' where it may have made contact with something hard - like a concrete floor at tire changing place ?? If you have rear jacked up & belt off can you have a buddy / neighbor spin the rear wheel and you look for "wows" in rotor ? A bad caliper just doesnt make sense, if it was fine before tire change. j | ||
| Snowscum |
I know Im like baffled. So are most my friends. That aluminum cast bracket doesnt look bent. The rotor doesnt look bent. Ill go take a picture and hopefully you can see what I see. | ||
| Snowscum |
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u177/snowscum/I MG_0371.jpg You can see the inside one is not parallel. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u177/snowscum/I MG_0370.jpg This one shows where after the last install, the piston side pad is not quite making full contact with the disk. The purple color is still there on half the disk. | ||
| Nobuell |
Something does not look right. Do you have a pic of the back of the bike a little further away. A couple of the wheel, swing arm and disc maybe? | ||
| Snowscum |
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u177/snowscum/I MG_0375.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u177/snowscum/I MG_0374.jpg | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Snowscum, If the disk runs true and the caliper is installed correctly and is not bound up, could the wheel be installed wrong? (This I think would be hard to do.) ..or bad bearings cocked in the hub? This sounds far fetched. I think that most shops would look at the bearings while they had the wheel. Why miss an opportunity to sell more parts and service? Plus, the safety factor. Is the belt tracking properly on the other side of the wheel? | ||
| Dynasport |
I'm not sure if I could tell if my rear brake was sticking. Just for fun I tried to use it to stop the other day. Engine braking was more effective I think. Maybe you could just remove it and be done with it. | ||
| Snowscum |
It wasnt a HD dealer that put new tires on for me. The last time I watched the owner do it. This time one of his employees did the work while I cooled off in the lobby. I asked the owner to make sure the bearing were ok. He said they were good. The rim is installed correctly. That was the first think I did was un torque everything and re torque. The belt is tracking correctly. The swing arm look ok. It comes down to the caliper looking cocked on there but if you take the pads out it has enough flexibility to over come this but as soon as you put the pads, nothing runs parallel with the disk. Meaning the caliper is leaning away from the tire. Its just weird it braked nicely before the tire change. I like the trail braking in corners because I dont like the way the front end dives if I have to use alot of front. Otherwise I would take it off. Lol | ||
| Od_cleaver |
I hope that Dynasport is making a joke. You could try to loosen up the caliper mounting bolts and apply he rear brake to see if it goes back into alignment. If you haven't done so already, check to see that the caliper mounting surfaces are clean. | ||
| Snowscum |
Thanks for the tips. All mounting surfaces are clear of debris. I tired that loosing up the 2 mounting screws and applying the brakes then tighting. Im not sure its safe to ride this way. I thought about riding it out to High country and have one of their guys look at it but it hit 101 today and having all that heat back there, I didnt want to chance wrecking that disk any more than I have already. | ||
| Jphish |
Probably the angle or parallox error, but #375 looks like the rotor is out of 'true' on bottom part of photo. OK - lets start over. Rotor & Rim not bent. Caliper flush to carrier assembly & assembly flush to arm. Bearings were checked and OK. (That could be affirmed, of course, by removing wheel) Pads installed correctly and spring clips in place. If thats all ok - this gets a bit mysterious. So...If you can jack up the rear just 1/2" with the belt off rear pulley & out of the way - have someone spin wheel with pads removed (so no binding) and see what, if anything, is out of alignment. Something clearly IS. If thats ok than replace pads, and spin again. the faulty component should show up somewhere in the checklist. Keep us posted. j | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm seeing that the caliper is out of line. It is leaned out at the top. I'm wondering if the tire guy took the caliper out of the way when he did the tire change. You can leave them on if you are aware of every thing about putting it back together. I'm thinking an inattentive wrench head may have put the rotor on the outside of the inner pad on accident, then tightened things up and found that the wheel would not turn. This could have bent the caliper mounting surface, or the bracket. It is possible the slider bolts bent. Looking at the picture(375) again I believe the aluminum caliper mounting bracket is bent. The slider bolts are at the corresponding right angle from the bracket, but the bracket itself is twisted at an odd angle. Have you called these guys back? Someone from there(the tech) has to suspect a problem. Might want to take it back to make them buy a new bracket and ask them about you having to buy pads to try to fix their error. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
#375 shows that the caliper is pretty clearly tilted. I'd try unscrewing the black slider pins to check that the caliper mount bracket is parallel to the rotor (it looks out of alignment). Of course, if the pins are bent you'll find that out pretty quick. Mark SE AZ | ||
| Snowscum |
I am going to take it apart and bring into work and check concentricity on the pin and flatness on the bracket. The pins look ok from the naked eye. All over a tire change....... | ||
| Snowscum |
All the parts seem ok dimensionality. Still havent found whats wrong. Zak, if you get a chance let me know what Max thinks. If I get time I might ride it out there this weekend. | ||
| Snowscum |
Well I replaced the caliper hanger and the pads are still not parallal to the disk. I guess replace the whole caliper next. What a freakin mess..... |
