| Author | Message | ||
     Etennuly |
I am totally elated that you and all but a handfull of us are able to crank it up on hot days! I'm making my fan run from five minutes of warm up to five minutes after shut down. That way I can ride it this summer!  | ||
| Florida_lime |
My bad but do you have the C/K flash? There is no comfort kit flash for '06 and '07 Ulys. | ||
| Skinstains |
Buewulf, I have ran an auxiliary on/off switch on my Bolt that works great. I wired it to the "flash to pass" switch because I run both lights on at all times and didn't need it. Another reason I ran it there is that it is a momentary switch, meaning it is only in the ON or OFF (depending on how it is wired) position for as long as you actually hold it there making leaving it on to wipe out your battery impossible. Wiring in a diode will stop the ECM from giving you an "idiot light". I use it often at redlights and such in the city. It's been on there for years and tens of thousands of miles with no trouble at all. I make everything I own better than the people who designed and built it did and I'm probably borderline retarded. Just look at some of my posts ! | ||
| Skinstains |
As far as this run/skip/run delema...has anyone tried checking the timing ? How about replacing the ECM and complete wiring harness ? I know it wouldn't be cheap but it might actually fix the problem or at least eliminate two major possibles. | ||
| Mnrider |
When I'm on the freeway and I slow down to take an exit or something I can hear my fan is running,any time I'm on the freeway when it's above 50 degrees my fan is running. Any time I flog it on the back roads the fan comes on. The only time I can get the fan to shut off with out shutting the engine off is if I can ride slowly for ten minutes or so then it might turn off. Any time you shut the bike off if it's been ridden for more than 10 minutes on a warm day the fan should come on. If your fan does not work exactly like that with an 06 Uly the whole problem could be the fan system. I'm looking at the wiring diagram B-19 and there is not a seperate fan relay,the ecm controls the fan ground. So I would say if the wiring and the fan are good and you've all ready replaced the ets then the ecm has to be faulty. If you wanted to test the fan power, ground and wiring you could ground the black and orange wire at the ecm. Just cut the bk/o wire about 2" from the ecm and attach a seperate wire from a good ground to bk/o going to the fan.That would test the complete fan wiring system. Then the fan would run all the time,if the fan ever quit running then you know there is a problem with the wiring or fan. if the fan never quits then you know its the ecm or the ets or ets wiring. I should have posted this opinion on the skip spark thread. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
That's weird because last summer when BMC was still in business the customer service number went to HD. And the point is, they took care of me. So I'd try it again. | ||
| Florida_lime |
As far as this run/skip/run delema...has anyone tried checking the timing ? How about replacing the ECM... Vern - Etennuly has worked on his repeatedly, and ended up advancing the timing. Worked OK for a while, but back to the same old thing after a bit. (See the skip spark thread -- http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/562277.html?1277428695) The timing change didn't help mine at all, though. Vern also replaced his ECU, again with temporary results. I was planning on swapping my ECU out with the help of Gamdh on my Easter weekend trip, but the bike never made it to his place. It was trailered in to the Macon Buell dealer. It didn't get fixed, but at least they were able to duplicate my problem (the first time a dealer could). I am contemplating an Erik Buell Racing ECU at this point. (Message edited by Florida_lime on June 25, 2010) | ||
| Buewulf |
Skinstains, First let me thank you for actually answering the question. The only thing others really had to contribute was genuine concern or sarcasm. I don't know how Scott wired the fan, but I'm sure your method is better than his. I'm going to forward that on to him. As far as the diode, I assume a little 3A barrel diode is sufficient? Florida_lime: This may be a long shot, and I am sure you guys would have checked this already. I busted an oil cooler once (not on the Uly) off-road. Installed a spare purchased at a local dealer and experienced overheating problems once midmorning temps rose above 80 degrees. Long story short, there was something wrong with the cooler - an internal mfg defect or foreign material lodged inside. I'm not sure what. Oil still flowed through it, but I guess it just wasn't sufficient. A second oil cooler did the trick. Perhaps you guys have a bad mfg run of oil coolers or some foreign material in the cooler or lines. | ||
| Rotorhead |
I'm coming into this thread late and haven't caught up on the whole thing but I figured I'd add even though it may have been discused. My fan died one day before a cross country trip of 7500 miles. As normal, no fan to be found at the HD dealer. I took the fan completely out to open the hole for air to flow and left for my ride. Even across NM and AZ at over 100F and an idling crawl at the Grand Canyon park my 06 uly never went into spark skip. It would ping like SOB if I got on the gas hard but that was about it. I rode it all summer and 10,000 miles later I finally installed one. The CEL was on the entire time because of the fan fail code but that was it. So, I feel there must be a issue of timing and/or fuel mixture that is causing the engine to run "hotter" that turns on the spark skip mode in the ECM. It could be a simple actual high temp or a sensor high temp. If you have the means ECM SPY and MEGA LOG, log a ride (something a dealer will never do) and get it to go into skip spark you can view what is really going on. I'd find a friend or shop that has a one of those temp guns to verify the temp sensor is reporting to the ECM a proper temp. Once the sensor reported temps to the ECM are confirmed proper then go down the slippery slope of a lean mixture trouble shooting; intake seals, that little plug that falls off on the right side of the throttle body, mechanical timing versus ECM timing advance, a bad O2 sensor reporting a rich mixture. I feel your pain. Hell, I'm in Iraq so I have to live vicariously through Badweb reading everyones else's rides to Homecoming, issues and farkels. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Perhaps you guys have a bad mfg run of oil coolers or some foreign material in the cooler or lines. My skip spark BS started over a year ago after I had a fan replaced under warranty. The rear rocker seal went, taking the fan with it (2nd time for the same situation). While trying to find the source of the problem, I saw that the oil cooler bracket was not reattached correctly, so I began to wonder if maybe an oil cooler line was plugged during dis-assembly, and the plug was forgotten. I took the lines off, and checked everything I could without finding any blockage. I did NOT replace the cooler FWIW. Oh, and I don't have my fan wired on full time. YET. | ||
| Florida_lime |
It could be a simple actual high temp or a sensor high temp. If you have the means ECM SPY and MEGA LOG, log a ride (something a dealer will never do) and get it to go into skip spark you can view what is really going on. I WISH I knew someone with that capability !  | ||
| Skinstains |
Buewulf, I don't remember what spec. diode I used but I would figure a 3A to be plenty. I'm sure someone here (Froggy) knows the amperage and wattage of the fan. | ||
| Buewulf |
I WISH I knew someone with that capability The oil cooler was a long shot, but I though I should put it out there. I was surprised to hear though that you guys haven't taken advantage of ECMSpy to try and diagnose the problem. Even if you don't have the expertise to understand what it is telling you (I probably wouldn't), you could post findings on the forum. Plenty of guys hear are fluent in Buell Tech. Get on it man! Summer is on! | ||
| Etennuly |
I got ECMSpy and so far about eight programs for the cable, none will allow it to interface yet. I have VDSTS also and the cable works fine with that program, but it is a limited version that will do TPS resets, and check if things are in spec. When I have been near those techno-minds we have always been short of time. Hell, Ken and I got into mine with his ECM Spy, but our initial fix made the bike work correctly.....for another 1000 miles. Then it re-learns how to screw up some more. Man, it sounds like I am making this shit up! I am only glad some others have this problem so that I don't think I am going mad.....you know.....like the dealers tried to convince me of! | ||
| Florida_lime |
Man, it sounds like I am making this shit up! I am only glad some others have this problem so that I don't think I am going mad.....you know.....like the dealers tried to convince me of! Imagine my relief when the Macon Buell dealer was the first dealer to replicate the problem.  Of course, that is because it is so bad, I can do it in 5 minutes from a cold bike with an 80 mph highway run.  | ||
| Falcon2 |
I always tough at high speeds, and hot days, the fan had to be running. When I stop, or slow down I could hear it running. I installed the switch, turned the fan on, and went for a fast, long ride, no skip spark. I have my Hot Rod back!!! What a joy to ride. Timing is back to stock, and the CEL is on. I would love to know more about the diode to fix that. What size, what side of the switch do you put it, and does the arrow point to the switch, or away from it. Sorry, all I know about electricity is don't touch it. | ||
| Garrcano |
What size, what side of the switch do you put it, and does the arrow point to the switch, or away from it. Sorry, all I know about electricity is don't touch it. Me also want to know, please, I have a long ride in two weeks to Portugal in july!!!!!!!!!!!! HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPP  | ||
| Mnrider |
Don't know for sure but does'nt the ecm just look for resistance on the fan curcuit. Measure the fan resistance and install a resistor. | ||
| Etennuly |
I cut the black/orange wire on the front ECM plug about two inches away from the plug. That leaves enough to re-solder it if a proper cure comes out. From the black/o wire that goes to the fan, I ran two lead wires up to my switch panel on the handle bars. The other one hooks directly to the Negative post on the battery. The ECM controls the fan through grounding. The fans wire is otherwise hot all of the time. If you make a jumper wire from the Black/O wire to touch on the Neg terminal on the battery, the fan will come on 'hi'. The two wires I ran up to the bars simply go from the NEG terminal to that Black/Orange wire that goes to the fan(not the ECM side). I put in a 30A switch who's job is to interrupt the ground from the battery when I want the fan off. Turn it on, the fan is connected to ground. Just make sure that the wires are run in a loom and tied back where they are exposed to heat, sharp edges or bending. Don't expect a dealership to be able to do this kind of thing. It does work, but YOU have to make sure that YOU are doing the job the ECM is supposed to do, that is protecting the engine from overheating by turning the fan on when needed. In this summer heat, I start the bike, ride for about five minutes then turn the fan on and leave it on. When stopping, I mimic what the ECM used to do by leaving the fan on for about three minutes. By controlling this yourself manually, it becomes your responsibility to turn the fan on to cool your engine, and your responsibility to turn it off to keep your battery charged. Fair warning here, I doubt warranty folks will help you if it is rigged this way and you have a related failure. My warranty expired a couple of years ago, so it is MY problem if I screw it up anyway. But, in my opinion the ECM was allowing it to get too hot, and with no warranty even THAT is my problem, so for my bike this manual set up makes sense. I have not worked out a diode for it yet. My CEL is on 30 seconds after start-up. | ||
| Falcon2 |
Etennuly, I don't understand why your CEL go's out after 30 sec. if the trouble the ECM sees is still their. My CEL stay's on all the time now. | ||
| Etennuly |
Yeah....that is what I said....it comes on. And it stays on. | ||
| Falcon2 |
I just read your post again, and I think I took it wrong. You mean it comes on after 30 sec, and stay's on. Right? | ||
| Falcon2 |
It stay's on, great, we are the same. By the way, ain't it great to be able to pull out and pass and not have to worry about skip spark. I have not had that confidence in two and a half years. | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm just happy that it will go up a hill at 70 mph and not have to back down to 55 to get the run skip to stop. But yes.....passing is good!  | ||
| Froggy |
Traveling faster than 50mph is only wasting gas. When I see you in October, I am going to get your bike fixed even if it means I have to leave my 1125 with you  | ||
| Etennuly |
You toucha my bike.....I toucha U face!!!  | ||
| Froggy |
 | ||
| Florida_lime |
I cut the black/orange wire on the front ECM plug about two inches away from the plug. That leaves enough to re-solder it if a proper cure comes out. You can also pull the wire out of the connector if you follow the directions in Appendix B2. No cutting of the wire is needed - just get a female connector that fits the male terminal you pull out. Did that today: just need to get a switch so I don't have to keep pulling the seat off.  | ||
| Etennuly |
You can also pull the wire out of the connector if you follow the directions in Appendix B2. No cutting of the wire is needed - just get a female connector that fits the male terminal you pull out You small tool coordinated guys can do that!  Did that today: just need to get a switch so I don't have to keep pulling the seat off. So I assume that means you have ridden with the fan 'hot wired'? How did it go for you?  | ||
| Florida_lime |
I haven't ridden it yet -- can't trust it to make it 25 miles to work anymore.  |
