| Author | Message | ||
     Dad4 |
Over the last year I have probably replaced the 15 amp light fuse 70 times, yes 70 times. It only blows when you hit the start button. Buell uses the Light circuit for power to the starter circuit. The dealer has been in contact with the Buell engineers but they cant seem to fix it. I haven't heard anyone having this issue, except for 2 bikes at the same dealership??? The dealership has been nothing but helpful. I'm glad it's with in the 2 year warranty window!! | ||
| Ronmold |
If it was out of warranty you'd probably fix it yourself and it would be finally done! Do you or anyone else have a wiring diagram I could look at as I have the '06 and they'er different. | ||
| Swampy |
Clean the engine to frame ground under the air box. I had some really strange starting problems until I cleaned mine. | ||
| Dad4 |
Ronmold, you are correct I would, but it is under warranty. I've got a little over 19xxx miles on it, and I have loved about 17xxx of those miles. But I've had enough. I traded for a 2010 street glide. | ||
| Ronmold |
I'm actually thinking about doing the same thing but for a Road Glide, I could put an electra glide style "couch" back there for the wife. | ||
| Dad4 |
I'm coming around to the styling of the road glide. I love the looks of the bike, but when I sit on it, it seems everything is so far away! | ||
| Dad4 |
Ok Trade completed. The Street Glide is a freaking turd!!!! But the radio is nice. Why did I have to get a crappy Uly!!! | ||
| Tootal |
Dad4, sorry to hear your problems. Your right, I haven't heard of anybody having that problem. I was blowing headlights because the stator went bad which caused the voltage regulator to go bad which was sending 17 volts to the headlight! Once I replaced it all I've had no more issues. As far as the bagger, I have a Road Glide too. For long trips, on pavement, it does real well. It even handles decent once you get use to it, but it still is not a Uly. There are still some 2010 Uly XT's out there, I've toyed with the idea to snag one and put my X suspension on it and then sell someone a 2006 Uly XT! | ||
| Ronmold |
Took a new Triumph Thunderbird for a test ride. Massive clean looking parallel twin with plenty of torque and it actually handled well. They have a touring SE version now that I would consider over the Road Glide. About 4G's less also but are the new Triumphs dependable enough or will it sit in the shop a considerable amount of time? | ||
| Tootal |
I really like the Triumphs too. I have a 75 Trident I took apart 25 years ago. Someday! I saw their 1700cc twin the other day. Man is that massive. I really like the new Victory Cross Country also. I won't buy a new Harley for more than one reason. Just me, no offense. | ||
| Dad4 |
The victory's are nice. I also like the cross country, but went with the harley for the resale. Can't get burned again like I did on the Buell!!! I really came out OK, but just sayin! I looked at the triumph tiger, but I don't want a chain drive..... | ||
| Ronmold |
That Thunderbird has a belt! A big selling feature for me. | ||
| Trevd |
but went with the harley for the resale Not to rain on your parade, but I have a feeling that the days of "good resale" for used Harleys are behind us... (Message edited by trevd on June 27, 2010) | ||
| Badrap |
I buy a bike it because I want it. I want to enjoy it. I don’t buy one so I can sell it. I might as well just not buy one then. My prior street bike was a left over 03 Suzuki Bandit 1200s. I got it new in 04 for $5500 and drove it for 11,000 fun miles. I sold it this year for $3500. Not bad, I had it for 6 years and 11,000 miles and it only cost me $2,000. I’m quite sure my next bike won’t be a Harley. I have no idea what it will be. I’m guessing it will be comfortable, capable of long range yet handle and corner well, inexpensive as possible, have hard bags, reliable, good mileage and nice looking. I haven’t had any problems with my Uly so currently the Uly serves my needs well. | ||
| Dad4 |
Badrap, I put 20,000+ miles on in a year!. Trevd, For years i have thought the same thing about Harley's. They do not hold the price as they have had in the early 90's, for various reasons, but they are still way better than most bikes. Again I loved the Buell but the issue couldn't be fixed. | ||
| Eulysses |
Bigger fuse :-)? | ||
| Froggy |
It could of been fixed, I probably would of removed the wiring harness to carefully inspect it, then replace it with a new one. Electrical gremlins can be tricky at times, but I find them easier to fix than most mechanical issues. | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
I think BMW makes the best bikes, the K bikes are. anyone wanna buy an 09XT | ||
| Mnrider |
I've never seen a problem that could not be fixed. These bikes are simple machines and a good tech could fix a blowing fuse. | ||
| Pso |
Wife had identical problem on her Scg. Seems like a wire got pinched when they installed the lower cowel after changing the oil filter. simple piece of electrical tape and all is well. | ||
| Metaldude |
My Uly is my first "new" bike I've owned (meaning a bike manufactured after I was). I've wrenched on antique bikes for 20+ years and we run into this sort of problem all the time. The root of the issue is loose or corroded electrical connections. The increased resistance caused by the corrosion or loose connection causes the current running through the circuit to increase until it ultimately blows a fuse (or a lightbulb). On an old bike, we just trace the electrical system and clean up and reseat all connections until the problem goes away. Focus on bi-metal connection points as those result in the most corrosion. On older bikes, this approach usually will take an afternoon where I'll replace all electrical connectors with new hardware, fresh crimps and solder. On the Uly, this may take a bit longer, but at least you can focus on the portion of the system used to start the bike. Prime suspects are the ground points with particular focus on the main battery ground. The stock setup on my '06 where it grounds to the battery box is completely insane. When I switched my ground to going directly to the frame and fixed my number 77 connector, every one of my electrical problems with hard starting and crappy charging went away. Other prime suspects would be the connections at the starter and solenoid. With a ohm meter, a wiring diagram and an afternoon, you should be able to test each of the circuits to find which one has the resistance build up and have your problem fixed. If one dealership has done this to two separate bikes, there must be some "fix" that they've done to both bikes that has introduced the resistance. Either by introducing a low quality connector making a poor crimp. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Great post, Metaldude. Thanks. A post to keep on hand! | ||
| Ronmold |
Metal, there may be some confusion in your post. When a connection is loose or corroded the resistance through it increases therefore the current decreases and cannot blow a fuse or lightbulb. If the bad connection is at the battery, and the battery is part of the voltage regulation system as it is on our Buell's, then the regulator device itself can become overtaxed trying to rein in the stator's output without the battery to send it to and put out too much voltage, usually toasting it. That's when the fuses & bulbs fry. Also if a bad connection gets too hot and melts the plastic connector and gets friendly with it's neighbor, stuff stops working. | ||
| Metaldude |
So corrosion only pops bulbs and fuses if it's at the battery. Maybe I've been confused all these years and did all that extra work for nothing. :-) Thanks for the post, it looks like I have some more research to do! | ||
| Whisperstealth |
So far so good! 12,600 mostly trouble free miles  Has needed a couple tps resets, and a fouled plug, that's it. | ||
| Dad4 |
I think it's the starter solenoid causing the fuse to blow!!! Buells get very hot in that area, and I think the windings in the solenoid have shorted. Harley will not buy a starter or take it off the bike to check out, don't know why? Glad I still had warenty left on the bike!!! | ||
| Metaldude |
Dang, that is frustrating! Maybe we can build our case with more facts to convince them. When the fuse blows, does it do so immediately or after a couple cranks? Blowing immediately would lend credence to your bad solenoid theory as current flows first through it. Do you have a service manual? If not, I could scan the pages describing how to do the voltage drop tests and email 'em to ya. PM me if you're interested. Perhaps armed with more data, the dealer can be convinced to pull the starter and solenoid and do the bench tests. | ||
| Dad4 |
oh yes the fuse blows immeadiatly!!! |
