| Author | Message | ||
     Chrisrogers3 |
Ok so I was trying to do a TPS reset today (my first one) and I plugged the bike in and everything went great. The issue I am now having is that my throttle would only go down to .5 I tried playing around with it and cranking it up and then back down with no avail. So I unhooked everything, now my bike wont start due to the butterfly being completely closed. If I crack the throttle enough to get it to open, it starts just fine. Can someone help please. | ||
| Jim_sb |
Chris, You crank it as low as it goes. Then crank it another turn or two to make sure. Then you hit the TPS reset button. Then after that is complete (may take some time) you set it back to the proper value. I presume you are talking about an older Uly like mine? 2006? I believe the newer models have a simpler reset program built in from the factory. | ||
| Towpro |
Jim is correct. The fact you back the throttle all the way out, and you still see .5 means you really do need a TPS reset. When you click "tps reset" that .5 will turn to a 0  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Just to spell out to what these guys are trying to tell you: (1) warm up the bike (2) cut it off (3) connect your cable and open ECMspy (4) back the idle adjustment screw all the way out (5) twist the throttle grip wide open and release a couple of times to ensure the throttle is COMPLETELY shut (6) hit reset, which sets the TPS value to zero (7) turn the idle screw back in a couple of turns or so (8) crank the bike, and adjust the idle to ~1100 RPM After that, you should be good to go. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Ok, so just to make this clear since I am sort of an idiot with this. When you say back the idle all the way out, does that mean it will stop? or do I just back it out till it stops measuring the change in value? Thanks so much for your help on these rookie mistakes! | ||
| Gamdh |
Until it stops measuring the change (then just a little more).... if you keep turning.. it will unscrew itself from the throttle body... damhik (Message edited by gamdh on May 18, 2010) | ||
| Ratbuell |
When you're backing it out, keep one hand free for the throttle grip. Once the throttle "sticks" when you first crack it (like off-idle if it were running)...you're at true zero. You don't want cable-stretching "clunk"-stick, just a medium-size "click"-stick that keeps it from opening smoothly right at the start. Reset it then. RESET YOUR AFV, TOO. Turn the idle screw until it reads 5.6% or so and start 'er up. Adjust the idle to get yourself the closest to 1050 idle (bike should still be hot). That's as far as I've gotten so far - it's been pouring-ass rain and I've been working so no chance to ride. I'll know more tomorrow (day off). I have done it on Digital Tech, though, and this is the same procedure...this is just the first time on ECMSpy for me. Also, another note - if you snap the throttle a couple times when adjusting the screw out, you'll see it gives a different (lower, more accurate) reading. DO NOT simply turn out the screw - you have to actuate the grip a couple of times to get the butterfly plate to 'set' itself in the throttle throat. | ||
| Jim_sb |
On my 2006 Ulysses the FSM says 5.2 - 5.6 degrees which is not the same as 5.6%. ECM Spy docs said to use 4.6 degrees or 5.2% and I presume that is inaccurate. I used 5.3 degrees as it is within the range specified by the FSM. | ||
| Towpro |
All the TPS (throttle position sensor) is, is a variable resister mounted to the throttle shaft that sends a voltage to the ECM which Changes as the throttle position changes. This lets the ECM know the true position of the throttle butterfly. If you follow Hughlysses procedure, you are telling the ECM when the throttle butterfly is all the way closed (by closing it manually in steps 1-5)) that this position is the 0 Throttle position (by clicking TPS reset in the software in step 6). After step 6, your throttle is still closed, and if you check your TPS number again, you should see it is 0. At this point, if you start the bike, it would not idle because your throttle is all the way closed. The 5.6 number (would be used in step 7) is is only a rough number that gets the throttle open far enough so when you start the bike it will idle. This 5.7 is not "carved in stone". Once you set the idle to 1050-1100, you will see your TPS reading might read something different then 5.7, don't worry about it, leave the idle at 1050-1100. AFV: as your engine is running, the ECU needs to know how much fuel to inject. The ECU has "fuel maps" in it that were programed by buell. Depending on TPS reading and RPM, the ECU knows which map to use so it injects the correct amount of fuel. The problem with this is Altitude and atmosphere conditions can cause more or less oxygen to be in the air that your motor is breathing. To compensate for this the ECM needs to monitor what is coming out of the engine. This is what the 02 sensor is for. Now the engine knows how much fuel it is injecting (because it read it from the hard coded fuel map), and it knows how clean the engine is running because it reads the 02 sensor. By comparing these 2 measurements, the ECM can determine if it needs to make an adjustment and inject a little more or less fuel to keep things clean. This adjustment is called the AFV. The ECM is always recalculating the AFV as you ride. The ECM takes this AFV number and changes your fuel injection pulse values by the AFV number as a % of change. Since your your TPS adjustment was off (you said it was .5 when your throttle was closed before the reset), your bike might not have been performing 100%, and the ECU changed the AFV value to clean things up a bit. I think you said yours was at 109% (which I think means it was adding 9% more fuel to your injection pulse). Now that your TPS is correct, this 109 might be to rich. Resetting the AFV to 100% allows the ECM to start this learning processes all over again. I hope this helps, and does not make it more confusing. (Message edited by towpro on May 18, 2010) | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Ok, so I went through the process a few times and it seems to run decent but it smells like its running rich, but it sounds good. So am I understanding it correctly: You set the TPS to 5.2-5.6 using the idle screw. Then you start it up. Then you turn the idle screw again to get it running at 1050? Should the AFV be reset with the bike running or shut off? Also when you are in the diagnostics screen, what does CPS signal stand for? It varies from a green zero to a red 5. Thanks Guys | ||
| Hughlysses |
You've pretty much got the idea now. Just to clarify what you're doing- once you've zeroed the TPS, you're not "setting" the TPS when you're turning the idle screw. You're just using the TPS reading as an indicator to show you when you've adjusted the idle stop far enough so that the butterflies are open enough so the bike will idle when you crank it up. Then once the bike is cranked and idling, you adjust the idle screw further so the engine idles at 1050 RPM. | ||
| Sekalilgai |
CPS is the cam position sensor, used to set the reference position for ignition timing. Red-Green transition in ECMSPY marks TDC for the front cylinder. related thread....http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/235542.html | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Probably said already but don't zero until ECMSpy goes from open loop to closed loop. . Anyway, the ETS (Electronic Temp Sensor) in the top of the rear cylinder will sense how hot the head is and change from open to closed loop when the engine is fully warm and you shouldn't reset the TPS until ECMSpy flips from open to closed loop. |
