| Author | Message | ||
     Dynasport |
As I posted in a separate thread, I started installing a Tri-Star XP turn signal to brake light converter this morning. For someone who knows what they are doing, this is probably a 30 minute to an hour task. I am going on about 8 hours now. I won't bore you with all the problems I have run into today, as I have solved a few. I have one I can't solve, however. You are supposed to wire the turn signal outputs into the converter, then take an output from the converter to the turn signal. I have done that, but now my turn signal bulbs stay lit all the time, even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to get them to go out. I would contact the company that made the converter, but they are closed on the weekends. It seems the only time they are ope is when I am at work actually, so I think I am going to have to solve this myself. I would really appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks, Dan | ||
| Mikef5000 |
It sounds like a problem within the converter. All you can do is make 100% sure the signals wires are connected to the write converter wires, both going into it and coming out. If those are correct, there's not much else you can do. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or a ground problem. If you have a ground (in) and a ground (out), make sure you have them connected properly. Battery ground connected to what should be module ground (out) - switched - will cause a lights on problem. Got a wiring diagram you can send me? I'll sort it out for ya  | ||
| Dynasport |
Ratbuell, I grounded the module to the battery. I was going to ground to the bike ground, but I could not get the screw out. I was beginning to damage the head of the screw so I gave up on that. Could it be so simple that grounding to the battery is the problem? It would be great if simply finding another ground could fix the problem. I am heading out to church, but when I get back I'll give that a try. If it doesn't I'll get you the diagram. Thank you very much. Dan | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ground is ground is ground, on the chassis/battery. I found this on the J&P website: If your bike does not have a variable load turn signal flasher, a Dual Load Equalizer will be needed for this installation Could be the problem. Give Al a call or email at American Sport Bike, I'm sure he can sort you out. Here: http://signaldynamics.com/?option=com_content&view =article&id=81%3Atri-star-modulator&catid=34%3Agen eral-content&Itemid=62 should spell it out for ya as far as connections go. | ||
| Teeps |
The installation schematic B+ connection seems simple enough. And, I would interpret the connection as battery post B+ connection. But according to your description of the problem it seems to me that the B+ wire (orange) should be connected to an IG1 output or switched B+. (Message edited by teeps on May 16, 2010) | ||
| Dynasport |
I appreciate all your help. The schematics that Ratbuell linked to are the ones that I was going to send. Just for grins I moved the ground from the battery to the frame with no change. I do have the duel load equalizer. It is not installed currently, but it was installed earlier with no impact on this problem. I have emailed Signal Dynamics and hope to hear from them tomorrow. Well, gotta go fix a tire on the Harley so I'll have something to ride tomorrow. Boy this has been frustrating. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You do have the brake light signal wire hooked to the BRAKE wire, and not the RUN wire, right? I think brake is red, run is white, ground is black... | ||
| Dynasport |
I have the brake light connected to the red/yellow wire. I tested it and it is only hot when the brakes are applied. | ||
| Dynasport |
Well, I ended up taking the day off for other reasons, but I used the time to call Signal Dynamics. The guy I talked to was actually quite helpful and patient with me. He explained the box is supposed to be hooked to a switched power source and not directly to the battery. It would have really been nice if the directions had made that clear. So, I will try to find a switched power source and hopefully that will fix everything. Any tips on an easily accessible switched power source? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
The license plate light or tail light. Since you've already tapped into the brake light, might as well just tap into the tail light as well. Stay away from the aux power port under the seat, as it is ECM controlled and not always on. | ||
| Dynasport |
That was what I was thinking Mike. Heading out to try now. | ||
| Ronmold |
If they wrongly stayed on with the key on or off moving the wire to an ign. switched instead of the Bat.+ should not fix the fault. Is it possible that one of the "to the turn-signal lamp" wires touched ground when you were trying it? A short there could have damaged the new module, you did fuse the "B+" lead when connected to the Bat+, right? | ||
| Dynasport |
Well, moving the power to switched solved one problem. Unfortunately, now I have another. The left turn signal is not working. It doesn't light at all. The right one works just fine. I used a test light and I am getting current all the way to the bulb, but apparently not the right kind. I switched leads from the unit and the problem stayed on the right side, so I know it is not the output of the unit that is the problem, but something in the wiring from the unit to the bulb. Like I said, using a test light I am getting power. I have never used a volt meter, so I am not sure what to even look for. Boy, I wish I had never started this project. It seemed so simple. I am really tempted to take the unit off and put everything back the way it was, but with this new problem I am afraid that wouldn't fix things. I am afraid my new connections are bad somewhere. Not bad enough to not let the current flow, but bad enough to cause some kind of problem. | ||
| Ratbuell |
"Left turn signal" - both? or just the rear? Do you *have* a voltmeter? If you do...set it for the little speaker symbol. That's the continuity tester. If a circuit has continuity, it will beep (touch the probes to each other and you'll hear it). Now, take out the bulb. There's a little tit on the end of it, surrounded by black. Above the black is a bare metal section. Tit is positive; bare metal is ground. Touch one probe to the tit, one to the bare metal. If it beeps...bulb is good. If it doesn't....bulb is dead. Replace bulb. Step 2. The Buell signals like to have leads pulled off. Remove the screw that holds the lens on (it's already out if you've got the bulb out). Remove both lenses. Remove the chrome reflector. On the back of the reflector are two spade connectors, one small and one wide. The like to pull off if you yank the wires too hard inside the tail section. If one has come off, *gently* squeeze it with pliers so the curls of the plug grab the pin more firmly when you plug it in, and plug it back in. A bulb could care less what the polarity is - + and - can go either way, and the bulb will work. IF you changed to LED's...they are polarity sensitive and + MUST go to +, - MUST go to -. It IS simple. Don't overthink it. Your test light is a bulb - if it lit, the turn signal bulb should light. My guess...dead bulb. Troubleshooting is simple. Take a "known good" component, put it in place of the failed one. If it fixes it...problem found. if it doesn't...go further up the circuit and keep swapping parts (ONE AT A TIME so you can pinpoint the problem) until you find it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I had a thought while I was out. Where did you hook the ground alligator clip for your test light - to the chassis somewhere, or to the ground portion of the bulb socket? If you didn't use the socket itself...you could still have a lead pulled off inside the turn signal housing. | ||
| Dynasport |
Ratbuell, thank you very much for your advice and help. If you are going to Homecoming, a beverage of your choice is on me. I think you most recent post is on point. I think I have a ground issue. I have one friend who is very knowledgable about electrical issues, but I have avoided bothering him with this because he has a very serious brain tumor and is not doing well. I had made plans with a number of other friends to take him to a baseball game last night, which was a wonderful time. In the car on the way to the game I mentioned the issues I was having and he immediately said it was a ground issue. I have checked the ground inside the socket and it is fine, but I am pretty sure I have a ground disconnect somewhere along the way. The ground line does have a plug connecter that may have come loose. I plan to check that when I get home. If it is connected, I am afraid I have a much more difficult task of finding the ground problem. I am trying to take a deep breath and not get so frustrated. Thanks to all again who have suggested solutions. Oh, and a blown bulb was the first thing I checked. Dan | ||
| Dynasport |
I have some good news. I found a ground problem and all seems to be working now. I still have a lot of clean up work to do on the install. I haven't soldered anything yet and I want to solder all the connections. With as many splices and the mess I made, it will take me a bit to get everything soldered and buttoned up nicely. I probably won't even start that till this Saturday. My weekdays and nights are pretty busy. But at least I know everything works now. Thank you all who helped with words of advice and encouragement on this project. Dan | ||
| Ratbuell |
 Kim (black Blast) and I (....can't make up my mind what to take...probably filthy orange '06 Uly or nice clean black CR) will see you at Homecoming!  |
