| Author | Message | ||
     Snoman |
Does anyone know of any sources for the PH400 Polly Heaters other than via the manual order system at Polly Heater? Eric. | ||
| Union_man |
If someone is going to do this mod PLEASE take pictures and good notes and post them! Thanks in advance. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I got a set of polaris heaters for just over 40$ no need to drill any holes on the handle bar, and and routing cables i quite easy, and the switch can be installed in many places (drilled a hole on the side of the metal part that hold the wind shield). | ||
| Mnrider |
I did the Moose ATV heaters and they work great and only $45. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes. And I can't say more then this until I decide if I want to be a sponsor (or find a sponsor to sponsor me), but don't drill a hole for a switch in a perfectly good Buell without talking to me first. Or better yet, talk to Al at American SportBike, and tell him you don't know for sure what Bill has, but that you are pretty sure you really want it.  | ||
| Snoman |
I know I've seen some pics on here before, but I will document everything when I do the install and post it. I had considered the Polaris type film heaters under the grips, but don't want to worry about the wires so close to the grips - especially on the throttle side where they'd be moving. I don't have a problem with a small hole on the bottom of my bars. I think it would be a cleaner install that way. Has anyone used these? Would they be too hot? Same question goes for the Moose heaters. I will be ordering the OEM '08+ RH switch block from American Sportbike to run the Polly Heaters. Can anyone confirm that this switch block will be able to pull power directly from the factory wire harness on my '07 Uly without needing to run a seperate line and relay? | ||
| Sweetfish89 |
He are some pictures and some notes on the heated hand grips http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34 6721&page=12 | ||
| Court |
I have an idea what Bill is doing and I'm ready to place my order with Al immediately. | ||
| Froggy |
Reepicheep, I'm going to have to remove your post due to non-sponsor advertising. (Although I do want one whatever it is!) | ||
| Cycletlh |
I would recommend putting the switch inside of the handguard. There is a stiffener that you can attach to. Allows you to turn it on and off with your index finger plus it is protected. I bought metal pole switches with rubber covers. Have the grips on one handguard and the aux. lights on the other. I also use quad boss covers when the weather is nasty. | ||
| Prior |
Reep has some GREAT ideas... Heck, maybe we should all chip in and buy him a sponsorship for a while!!! | ||
| Pso |
There were alot of posts on the Plooy heaters about 4 yars ago. Love mine, thye get very hot very quickly then I put tem on low for the the rest of the ride. No need to drill the bar use the hole in the bottom. One mistake I made, I was in a rush to install so I forgot to put the heat insulation material in the bars before shoving the heaters in. Doesn't seem to make a diffference however. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I got hold of Blake and worked out sponsorship, so I can stop being so mysterious. I'll give a lot more detail later, but the short story is that I have a compact little temperature sensing thermostat designed and running (really well). It changes the power to the heaters based on the ambient temperature, constantly adjusting as you ride. It also senses bike voltage, so if the motor is not running or your stator just went up in smoke, it shuts the heaters down until enough power is available. It was designed to work with the Polly snowmobile heaters (the 2 wire versions, which are cheaper and easier to install anyway), and you just bury my module under your flyscreen (no holes for switches or anything) and just enjoy the heat when it cools down out. Nothing to fuss with. Two wires in (V+ and GND) and 4 wires out (R&L V+, R&L Gnd) with screw terminal blocks, so install is really easy as well. The "heating curves" are completely programmable on my end... so if you want a custom setup for something other then the pollys, and can work out a "percent on versus ambient temperature" table, I can make you a custom heat map. In most case I doubt it will be necessary though, as most heated gear is probably at 100% at 30 degrees regardless. It's running fine off the accessory line on my Uly, which is also running my Quest. It should work fine with the factory grips as well, or even other heated gear. Alex will be my lab rat for the factory grips. I'm thinking wire it up in parallel with the factory setup, tapping in after the switch for the "high" setting. So my switch does "auto", and you can override it with the factory switch if you want (or cut it out completely with some wire cutters if it behaves badly while you are on a trip somewhere). You could also wire it into the switch, so one setting is "auto" and the other setting is "high", but that would be more complicated and not really gain much. The real reason I did it was because it broke my heart to drill a hole in my 9sx for the polly heaters before, and I couldn't bring myself to do it again for the Uly. And that polly switch on the 9sx is now rusted and nasty looking, and I am forever getting distracted by it trying to ride flopping it between "too cold" and "blister palms". This thing on the Uly has been bliss. Hop on and ride, and the heat comes and goes with the cold automagically. It'll be very affordable as well, my "rev 2" design dropped a bunch of parts and it is very lean and mean right now. I also made some design decisions to resist adding some features that would make things more expensive and more fragile for only limited benefit... so this is the "Buell" inspired solution, not a "BMW" inspired one. The Polly switch would be the "KLR" version  . The Newark order comes in this week, so that's when I find out if "rev 2" works... though I am pretty sure it will, and much better then my first version (which is working great anyway). I'll get more information up with some pictures as I build some prototypes.. | ||
| Court |
No time at the moment to read your post (I will tonight). If you are making it . . enter my order for the first one. Let me know when you know the $$. | ||
| Prior |
Reep, Can't wait to give them a trial run- I think I'm going to need to find a cooler place to ride this summer! Alex | ||
| Court |
Just read it and . .. based entirely on the things you've come up with before . . . I can't wait to see it. This is exciting news. Court | ||
| Motorfish |
I have been looking into some kind of "thermostat" for the Polly Heaters that I bought and not installed yet. Sometimes, procrastination is good! Will it work with the Hi/low type, wired to only hi or low? Can`t wait to see them! | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can use it with the three wire (hi/low) polly heaters, but save the extra $10 and just buy the two wire (on/off) version. Easier to pull just two wires through as well.  Going to bed now, I'll test it tomorrow. Successfully fabricated the PC board using a laser printer, and cheap shiny newsprint, and a $19 WalMart hot plate (and some acid). Only screwed up one thing on the Newark order, and it is fortunately something easy to source locally. I need to make some minor PCB changes (I am using little durable tantalum caps instead of bigger more fragile electrolytics, and my voltage regulator is a lower loss smaller package, so I need to change those pins as well. And my thermistor is smaller then I expected... But that was all minor. I'll give it the "smoke test" tomorrow... | ||
| Motorfish |
Thanks, I already have the 3 wire heaters, they were a gift, so I`ll use them. That looks like a simple project, small too. Keep us posted, I`m definitely interested! |
