| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Anybody deal with these guys? http://www.tophidkits.com/mohidki.html Prices seem low to me. | ||
| Froggy |
Thick ballasts, extra cost for lifetime warranty, and no detailed specifications on the kit? Pass. http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p=product&id=10 1&parent=85 Thin ballasts, lifetime warranty, proven for thousands of miles on all my vehicles, same price as that link you posted, and option for 55w instead of the normal 35w. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks Froggy... much better. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Witch is the on that fits on our Ulys, mine is a 2006 model. Thanks, over here in Spain they rip us off with the prices. Thanks | ||
| Harleywern |
@ Pontlee77 they rip us off not just in Spain. I think they do it all over Europe. But nowadays it is easy to order in the States | ||
| Froggy |
H7 bulbs, I recommend 55w kits, color is your preference. 4500k is white like OEM luxury cars and will have the most output. Go higher K for more blue and purple color (but a little lower visibility), go lower for a yellow for fog lamps. | ||
| Azdaniel |
Froggy I know you have about 100 posts on this but I'm having trouble putting it all together. I'm thinking of just putting one 55w kit on my low beam and connecting it to the high beam with a diode (to keep it on and "warm"). Does that make sense, do I need the diode? Will the diode keep the low beam on at full power? How about a relay? It's an 10XT. Thanks!!! | ||
| Froggy |
Just switch the pins in the main headlight connector. Swap the low beam with the Euro light. I wouldn't bother with relays, diodes or anything else like that. | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
wow it has been a couple years since I looked into converting regular lights to HID, $50 now then it was $200+ for one bulb setup. this has just become a must have .  | ||
| Froggy |
Yea even in the last year they have really come down too, its cheaper than a pair of new bulbs from a HD dealer. | ||
| Xbimmer |
So reading on DDM's site they suggest 35W over 55W for smaller light housings. Given the potential heat problems and reflector deterioration in our headlight assemblies, will the 55W kill the Buell XB headlight? Will the longer bulb be too close to the lens? I'm debating whether to install a 35W in my low beam, and/or two 35W units in my Hellas which have magnesium reflectors but are kind of shallow.  These prices and their warranty are too good to pass up. | ||
| Azdaniel |
Thanks for the tip(s) I'll order a set today. | ||
| Froggy |
The stock 55w bulbs melt the reflectors, and the HID kits probably will too. I don't care, a new headlamp assembly is only a hundred bucks, I will change it out again if it melts again too. | ||
| Azdaniel |
Could do a 35watt in the low beam and 55watt in the high. Sounds like the 55watt has been used without any issues in Uly headlights. I think they were cautioning against putting them in smaller driving lights like they have in some cars. | ||
| Billyo |
I just ordered the 35w kit for the headlights! $53 shipped. When I had both headlights, 55w driving lights, and stereo amp on all at the same time I was down to 12.4 volts and I couldn't tell if the fan was running. Hopefully the lower draw from the HIDs will save enough power. When I install the new headlights I'll have to see if I have enough room for a kit for the driving lights. | ||
| Mnrider |
I ordered the 35w 4500 h7 kit from DDM. | ||
| Ronmold |
Mnrider, you should take a ride up here & I'll help you put it in. Hope you got the slim ballasts! | ||
| Mnrider |
Sounds like fun Ron,delivery date is 4/8. Says it comes with slim ballasts. Thanks for the link Froggy. (Message edited by mnrider on April 05, 2010) | ||
| Loud_greg |
I just ordered the kit, too! I love lurking on this forum  | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
just to clarify???? 35w are better than 55w if you do not want to melt things? correct? and 4500k for white not 5000k??? I thought 5000k was sunlight  | ||
| Hangetsu |
You will notice little difference between 4300K and 5000K, but 4300K seems to be what's used in most OEM HID systems. 5000K is a whiter light. Above 5000 is when you start getting more blue light and fewer lumens. (Message edited by Hangetsu on April 06, 2010) | ||
| Ronmold |
I like my 5k at night, my son's 8k on the Ninja is very visible in daytime, which is his main use, not so much at night. Even the 4300's makes the brightest halogens look like pee. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
5000K is a whiter light NOT CORRECT! 4200 is white. Plain and simple. Anything higher than that gets more and more blue. Anything lower is more and more yellow. True, there is not much difference between 4200 and 5000, but if you put them side by side, 5000 is going to appear more blue.  | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
great info, thanks what about 35w or 55w? I don't want to melt anything | ||
| Froggy |
Your gonna melt it regardless, even with the stock bulbs. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I am unaware of anyone melting the housing on a lightning or uly. I've only heard of that issue with Firebolts. I have 55 watt HID's in both mine and have yet to see any housing issues. Also keep in mind HID's are more efficient than Halogens and therefore create less heat. Melting of wiring is an entirely different issue. This is possible with 35 watt and more so with 55 watt. The only way to guarantee you won't hurt your wiring by installing HID bulbs is to add a relay. This way the only power you're pulling through the factory harness is a miniscule amount to switch the relay. The actual power for the bulb will come straight from the battery (through a fuse and said relay). If you don't want to add a relay, go 35 watt. If you're willing to add a relay, go 55 watt. Just remember, people have melted factory wiring with 35 watt (so I would recommend a relay either way). | ||
| Froggy |
There are a few out there, including mine.
I used an IR thermometer and recorded 50w HID bulbs running 10° F hotter than a PIAA Extreme 55w bulb. | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
I thought that a HID draws less current than regular bulbs, except at start up. making them more efficient. so do you really need relays? and if the factory bulbs will melt the reflector then 55w is the way to go | ||
| Mikef5000 |
The 35 watt HID does draw less current during normal operation, but during start-up it pulls significantly more. People have melted wiring and connectors using 35 watt HID kits. So I would recommend a relay, although a lot of others don't use them and get away with it. It's all a matter of how much risk are you willing to take? 55 watt HID's should go through a relay. Period. | ||
| Ronmold |
If it doesn't blow the fuse, it shouldn't melt the wires. Fuses are often thought of as devices that protect "things", lights, modules, Garmins etc. but really their main intent is to protect the wires from fire. The wire should be able to conduct all the current the fuse/circuit was engineered for UNLESS someone upsizes the fuse or you get a few broken strands inside the wire or a bad splice, both of which have been reported in Buells. Those areas will become a hot spot and can cause meltdowns. What I remember reading on this forum concerning burnt lighting wiring is from that undersized 4 pin headlight connector melting. The contacts seem a little small to me and if you wire for L beam always-on that 1 ground pin has to carry twice the current it's rated for, no wonder they melt. I am using 35w HID's wired for always-on using the factory wires, Low being wired to the blue lighting circuit feed to the left cluster. I chucked the connector and wired directly to the HID connectors and also used a good ground. I completely agree that 55w should use a relay. (Message edited by ronmold on April 06, 2010) |
