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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through April 07, 2010 » Bogging down between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm « Previous Next »

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Bgdadddy
Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi All, Newbie here.

I just bought an '06 Ulysses and it is bogging down bad between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. Its mostly noticeable in the higher gears on the highway. It almost feels like the motor is shutting off and starting up again.

It has been in the shop for a week now. They have replaced the exhaust actuator valve and are trying the throttle body valve/sensor next. They say if that doesn't fix it its probably the ECM.

Has anyone ever had this happen before? Any idea what an ECM costs?

Thanks!
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would doubt that it's the ECM.
Does it run crappy at lower speeds but the same RPM?
Does it pull OK above that RPM?
What happens if you put it in 4th on the highway?
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Hmartin
Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Its mostly noticeable in the higher gears on the highway - Does the 'bogging' only happen while cruising, i.e., will it run OK through that RPM range if you are accelerating through it?

They have replaced the exhaust actuator valve and are trying the throttle body valve/sensor next - Do you / they mean the throttle position sensor? Unless you're getting error code 11, it may just need to be reset or repositioned.

To me, the prime suspect would be the intake seals. Before you go replacing the ECM, have you verified that the intake seals are not leaking?
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It does it in every gear, but I pretty much just accelerate right through it in the lower gears. In 4th and 5th, I'm not accelerating as fast so I feel it really bad.

It pulls great above and below that RPM.

Yeah, its the throttle body sensor. One of the first things they did was to reset that. The only error code they got was for the exhaust actuator which is why they replaced it. I don't think they are getting anymore codes.
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Hmartin
Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2010 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tell them to check the intake seals before ordering a new ECM. As I've found out through others' experiences on this board, leaky seals can cause some rough running at times (popping off of idle, sputtering at speed). Some people never have a problem with their seals, while other owners have to change theirs every 2 or 3 years. I just changed mine and, while I've not hooked it up to any diagnostics, yet, it does run better.

Anyway, it makes more sense to check two $2.50 parts before changing an ECM that costs 50 times more.
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Johnnylunchbox
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 07:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check all the tiny wires on the ECM very carefully. Look for almosst imperceptible abrading of the wire insulation. The seat pushes on the connecter causing all sorts of weird gremlins. Make sure the connectors are solidly in place.
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Johnnylunchbox
Posted on Friday, March 19, 2010 - 07:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oh and reset the TPS, and make sure idle is adjusted right.
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There is a slight dip in power as you describe as the exhaust valve activates.
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well crap!

Exhaust actuator has been replaced, throttle position sensor has been replaced, its not the intake seals and nothing is showing up on the dealer's computer - but the problem is still there.

Any other ideas?
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Anyone? Bueller?
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What modifications have you made to your bike?
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How many miles does it have on it?

I would be looking into the fuel system. If it sat around after having gas in it and dried out it may need the fuel injectors cleaned or replaced, and the fuel pump may need to come out for a filter and a pick up screen.
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I haven't made any. I just got it so I don't really know the history, but I'm pretty sure everything is stock.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, because some aftermarket exhausts are known to cause deadspots in the power band.

I am wondering if there is an issue with the valve on the muffler, like it isn't opening when it should.
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thagt was the first thing the dealer replaced...
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Johnboy777
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Closed is the default position on the stock muffler - just for the hell of it, wire it open to see if that changes anything.

The reason I wired my muffler open in the first place is that the activator went bad (and it ran poorly above 3k if I recall). The activator is still bad, but I've had the muffler wired open since then, and prefer it that way, actually....YMMV.

John
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

Thagt was the first thing the dealer replaced...




No, they replaced the actuator, not the valve.
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Bgdadddy
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Oh, I thought it was the same thing
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Murraebueller
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You might want to check and see of the bike has the most up to date download. The Digital Technician doesn't check that automatically. The tech has to go in and look and then go to the reflash page and check. You could also have then check the timing.
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