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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through March 26, 2010 » Best way to clean the intake air sensor (IAT sensor) in the airbox? « Previous Next »

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7873jake
Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2010 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have an as-of-yet unrelocated set of breather hoses that desperately need to be relocated soon (probably tomorrow-my airbox is oil-ier than it should be).

Because of this, I also have an oily intake air sensor in the airbox. Whats the best way to clean that so that I don't damage it? (I guess this also accounts for the color inside of my throttle body.)

It also turns out that the rear PCV valve and grommet were in a bit of a tiff and until I better reseated the valve in the grommet more securely, a lot of what I thought was a spotty rear rocker box gasket appears to have been because of these two parts not being fully seated. After deeper inspection tonight, it looks like my gaskets are good and an engine rotation may not be in my near future.
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Dr_greg
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spray can of electronic cleaner stuff? Seems like that should work.

--Doc
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Teeps
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've used brake cleaner to wash the oil off the air temp sensor on my Uly.
409 or other grease cutting detergent could be used as well.

Contact or brake cleaner is easier.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rubbing alcohol works well. Mine was getting saturated for a long time until I changed my oil change procedure. In the past I would top off a fresh change until the level would hit the "add" mark on the stick when cold. Thus the engine would suck it all back out until it reached its happy spot.

I finally gave in and put in only 2.5 qts at a change which puts the level at halfway from the tip of the stick to the add mark when cold on my 2006, which puts the level at 2-3X's when hot. Drastically reduced the oil in the airbox. Going a step further I tried this about 3K ago:




Popped the airbox last week and couldn't believe the difference. Sensor was dry, velocity stack and intake was clean, just a little splooge at the base of the stack at the base plate. Obvious evidence of misting into the air filter directly forward of the hose ends, OK by me. I know it looks a little cobbled but it seems to work and I'll clean it up some day when I replace the worn out stock breather hoses.
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Dr_greg
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here's the "sano" approach: honest Abe!


--Doc
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Blk_uly
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

hey doc thanks for your 2 cents worth!
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7873jake
Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I love when I get waaaay more than I bargained for. Thank you to all!

My last oil change was exactly 2.5 qts which leaves me to believe that I didn't get as much of the old oil out as I thought because I've been dressing down the oil level (w/ a bulb syringe) at routine checks to get it back down to the 2-3 X's on the dip when hot. I think I went 2-3 X's on the initial fill cold.

I thought it was odd that someone's TPS reset procedure would include "bring a can of carb cleaner and spray it in the throttle body" until I got to looking in mine. Now I get it.

Either way, thanks for making my Pi day extra special!! http://www.piday.org/
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