| Author | Message | ||
     Hunn |
End of my last 1900 mile southern OR to southern CA round trip the red V engine light started to light up on my 06 Uly while I was riding. Tried to reset by turning engine cutoff switch off for a minute, then restarting the engine. Light came back on, engine seems to be running rough at idle/low rpm, sometimes some cut-outs at steady speeds. Fueled the bike often pretty full, fuel in the charcoal can perhaps? At the same time I had some problem with resets on my mileage counters with rpm and speed needles sweeping at standstill. Could the two problems be connected? Because of crappy weather on the trip I was running my OEM heated grips, heated jacket liner and radar detector, sometimes my GPS at the same time. Whole thing freaked me out, since it started happening at night in the middle of nowhere. Since the next Harley/Buell dealer is 4hours away and there service department will not answer questions on the phone I need really some help with this. Any input welcome. | ||
| Swampy |
Try cleaning the battery connections, install some star washers on the bolts, then clean all the electircal ground connections installing star washers as you go. | ||
| Etennuly |
Do you have the 'comfort kit' on the bike yet? That is the right side scoop and internal ducting. I've been fighting this problem with mine for a long time. It is running hot.....just enough to set the light. The gage problem will likely be the red wire triple splice in the left side wire bundle where it passes from the fuel tank into the steering neck. There are some recent threads on what and how to repair that. It is also possible the ground wires behind the headlights, on the front of the steering neck are broken off or loose. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Vern, He said the check engine came on, not that it was flashing. Maybe just a matter of pulling up the trouble codes (if any) to see if it is something else. | ||
| Etennuly |
Hi Scott, Guess what mine does now?? No more flashy light /run /skip! It comes on and stays on. This change happened since putting the comfort kit on. It did it most of my 1,720 mile trip to Daytona and back. While I was down there at my son's house I installed my new intake seals, new coil, new plug wires and new plugs......still get red light that comes on and stays on above 70 mph or so. I believe that is the pre-stage for run skip. It runs great though. It was rather cold for most of the trip, but that didn't matter. I hate to hijack this thread, but next up I am going to try advancing the timing. It has never been one to ping, and running the timing retarded is generally a cause for hotter head and exhaust temperatures. Then I am looking into trying to fatten up the fuel mix in the upper mid range. I think with the installation of comfort kit, it is just above a normal temperature range, just out of the ECM's range of normal. Maybe I should just build a bracket to hold the ETS an inch above the head surface.  I've got a lot of riding planned for this spring and summer, it needs to be working right. Hell, for that matter it may have a hundred thousand miles on it before I get it figured out!  | ||
| Hunn |
Etennuly: No "comfort kit" mounted. The engine light was lit driving on the Hwy without the cooling fan going. Ambient temp. was around 38 degrees. If the engine is overheating shouldn't the fan come on? | ||
| Etennuly |
Yes the fan should be on if it is heating up. Mine is on when my light is showing up. With the engine light coming on it may be best to check for codes. Rechecking the battery terminals is always a good idea on these things. If you can force the terminal to move with your fingers it is not tight enough. | ||
| Hunn |
Since I don't have a code reader, the "digital technician"  I will try myself with the jumper wires and the flashy light to read the codes tomorrow. Anybody done that? Any tips? | ||
| Florida_lime |
Make sure you connect the right 2 contacts -- first time I did it, I was holding the plug "upside down" and popped the fuse. Other than that, it's pretty easy, unless you have several different codes to count through. Vern, Picking mine up this afternoon after waiting 4 months for the ETS to come off back order. Not sure if my bad idle is really fixed, but I'll know soon. | ||
| Etennuly |
I guess I got my ETS just in time last summer! I have a new o2 sensor to install also. It did pull that code one of the times I was into it, but not on subsequent tests. The jumper wire goes on pin 1 and pin 2. You will need a service manual for this. | ||
| Us_uly |
My engine light came on last year all of the sudden. Took it to the dealer and they read the codes, but he didn't know what it meant and was going to ask his Buell guy about it. In the meantime I figured out my horn and brake light where not working. Turns out a fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse and the everything is fine now. So... check your fuses. Maybe you'll get as lucky as I did. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Happiness ! After 4 months with no Uly, mine is OTR again. Runs great, idles normally (once I adjusted it down -- I have never had my Uly back from a dealer without the idle set too high, so it hangs once warm  ) I had to put air in the tires after 4 months, and route the idle adjuster properly, but other than that, everything works great. It's not warm enough to be sure it doesn't want to go into skip-spark, but NO engine light. | ||
| Tootal |
Hey Vern, were you riding with the BAW? That might be blocking the air flow to the scoops. Just a thought, and yes it hurt a little. | ||
| Etennuly |
Nah. The windshield has no affect on the problem. It is not low enough to block air input to the scoops and it's over all shape is not bigger than my physical profile. But it matters not. It does it's stupid thing without it also. If I stay off the Interstate highways it does not do it. |
