| Author | Message | ||
     Bdrag |
Alright, I am over my bitching about the missing pinch bolts. HAhahaaaa. Now for a follow up with the wheel removal. Got the wheels off, no problem, still wonder how hard the rear will be to re install but thats later today. I have read all kinds of stuff about the wheel bearings failing. While I have the wheels off at 1900 miles I spun the wheels and the bearings seem so freaking tight in the wheels. Do the seals cause all this drag? Its more than I have ever seen on a wheel bearing. They seem smooth and have zero slop side to side but man are they tough to rotate as a unit. Is it the seals dragging this much? I popped off the dust seals from the wheel bearings and found very little grease present. So I added some. I snapped the seals back in but damn! On all my other bikes, 2000 LC 1500 Intruder and my 2004 DL 1000 V Strom, they have the tube between the bearings in the center of the wheel but its not wedged in tight tight like on the Uly. Is this normal? Is the drag or friction from the seals? I am sure I will post another bone head question soon. Thanks for your patients with a Buell Newbie.... BDRAG | ||
| Blk_uly |
often the bearings are not in proper alignment till there torqued in. after 22 thousand miles, mine have been that way from the first tire change. It's easy to put back on the only trouble I recall is calaper/brake pads etc. I always manage to put the tire on perfectly only to realize that I forgot the belt!  | ||
| Jphish |
If the wheel has been over torqued it can distort / compress the aluminum spacer (tube)and can cause excessive pressure on bearings. You might want to measure spacer to ascertain if this is the case. I torque mine to no more than 45ft# - the dealer had them way to tight @ last tire change. | ||
| Tootal |
If the spacer is tight between the inner races then you are good. If it were loose then when you tighten your axle you would be putting axial load on them and they wouldn't work for very long. Mine were tight too. These bearings must control radial and axial loads so there is not a lot of side play in them as compared to a typical ball bearing that only deals with radial loads. I'd rather see good old Timken cone bearings in there but that's just me. | ||
| Jlnance |
Ah yes, wheel bearings. The short version is no one has ever figured out exactly why the fail. We have a lot of theories, none of which explain all the failures. If you absolutely positively need your wheel bearings not to fail, get the 2010 wheel kit. If a failure isn't going to be the end of the world, keep an eye on them when you change the wheels, and replace them periodically. | ||
| Teeps |
This link is very insightful... http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products?newlin k=1_0_1&lang=en&maincatalogue=1 (Message edited by teeps on February 14, 2010) | ||
| Luftkoph |
Bdrag when torquing rear axle go 23-27 ftlbs,then back off axle 2 full turns and then torque to48-52 ftlbs as per service manual | ||
| Bdrag |
TO ALL... Thanks for all the help. The tire change went without a hitch once I figgered out its not all that difficult to get the rear axle back in. I did forget the inboard belt guard and had to remove it all again to get it on. I will know next time. The use of the floor lift was what is needed. I lifted the bike to where everything lined up, got the axle in and it threaded right in. YEEE HAWwwww! Just the few miles I put on the bike tonight after the service was very satisfying. The new Angels seem to like the Buell and the Buell likes the Angels. No more wrestling into a turn. Of coarse it may also be that the pinch bolts are in now. HAhahaaaaaaaa. BDRAG |
