| Author | Message | ||
     Kmb |
Ok I know that I am no auto electrical person, but I thought I could do this. I purchased the Polly Heaters and wanted to use a relay, however I realized I needed two based on this drawing from someone on this site I don't remember who.  I thought I should use an indicator light (LED) for each side...Hi/Lo. I went to R. Shack and got the relays, LEDs, and a Micro switch that I was told would work even though it was for 120V AC instead of 12V DC. I wired it as per the diagram below.  Now then I turn the key on both lights come on no matter what position the switch is in, on-off-on and the heaters start getting hot. I can follow directions so I thought, but I'm at a loss here. I did notice that the instructions from Polly has the power going to the center of the switch instead of ground like the drawing shows. Please Help. | ||
| Trail_snail |
http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/heated-grips-eval uation-71386.html Try this. I haven't installed them, but it's on my project list. I came across this article during my research. Good luck. | ||
| Metalstorm |
I wish I still had my bike for reference but I'm 99% sure that I only used one relay on my Scg. The main power to the grip switch was fed from the relay. Then from the switch it went to either the high or low element depending on switch position. Relay was under my seat and its on/off was fed by the tail light wire. But yeah, only one relay was needed. | ||
| Thesmaz |
I only used one relay when I installed mine. The LED's should work with the pos side attached to the 87 pin off of each relay, not 85. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
MMM, to much work i got the Polaris and followed the installation made by Sean, and it was dead easy http://picasaweb.google.com/vikingmc/UlyssesHeated GripsHowto# Here is how he did it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The way you wired it, the led should be on when the heater is off, and off when the heater is on. | ||
| Reepicheep |
And I am suprised the LEDs didn't blow. They are trying to turn on the relay. Must be a low power coil. Add a 470 or so ohm resistor in series with each led, and move each positive led lead to the high power relay output to the heater element (pin 87). (Message edited by Reepicheep on February 06, 2010) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Or move your LEDs to be in series with the relay coil and switch (no extra resistor) and cross your fingers. The led may blow, or the coil may no longer trigger, but it might work out (it depends on the relay coil characteristics). | ||
| Longdog_cymru |
I bought the R/H switch gear from American Sport Bike and a Deustch connector to match the standard Uly connector from Batts Racing (http://www.battsracing.com/)and that was a neat job well done! | ||
| Kmb |
Ok here is what I have done. I got so frustrated that I couldn't figure it out, I took all the wiring that I put in out and followed the instruction from the heaters. To use a keyed source I tapped into the auxiliary port wire and grounded it on the ground point behind the headlight. Now for the LEDs. I hooked one wire to one outside terminal(Hi) and the other to a ground. I did this for the low side as well. The positive goes to the center terminal like the instructions say. But now no matter if I put the switch on high or low both LEDs come on. Off is off though. So I cut the LEDs out of the picture for now until I can figure out what I have done wrong. I am wondering if having grounding the LEDs together has allowed the current to bleed through, kind of in an M fashion. If any of you have suggestions I'm all ears. Reepicheep, thanks for your suggestions but beings that I don't do much electrical work it sounds like greek to my dumba$$. I can follow + and - go here. I feel lucky I got the heaters to work just by going back and following the step by step directions. | ||
| Etennuly |
I set my Polly Heaters up per their engrish instruction sheet. The only problem I had with that is the Hi and Low are inverted per their instructions. I have had them for three years now with no problems from them. I don't know how these heat elements are supposed to work technically, but when the switch is toggled to the 'off' position, the grips gets hotter for a few minutes, as if the 'off' position turns on the second element, then both elements will shut down. I toggle them on and off as needed to regulate the amount of heat my hands get. If yours are acting the same way, I can see where it would cause a problem with indicator lights. | ||
| S_palmer |
The point of using a relay is to protect the stock wiring not to protect the switch. You only need one relay. I don't know how to draw on this thing so I'll try to describe what you need to do. Run a +wire from the battery to term. 30. Run a + wire from a switched source such as a taillight to terminal 85. Terminal 86 goes to ground. Terminal 87 goes to the center pin of the toggle switch, the hot leads from the heaters go to opposite sides of the switch. Ground the other leads from the heater. Piggy back the led + wires to the outside terminals on the switch, one to each terminal, ground the - led leads and you are done. | ||
| Motorfish |
I have a set of Polly heaters to install, and I would like to use one of these:http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/C KMX033.htm Someone on ADV rider used something like this on a homemade heated jacket. There is a model out there that has a remote Pot, so it could be mounted away from the board. It would be real nice to vary the temp instead of just hi or low. When I find more info, I`ll post it. | ||
| Kmb |
S_palmer, thanks I understand your directions except for the part about the LEDs. After I rewired the heaters the second time I had the LEDs tied into the hi and low sides one LED per side and grounded like you said. When I flipped the switch from off to either hi or low both LEDs came on at the same time. It was like both sides of the switch were hot at the same time. In the morning I will check that with a test light, I hadn't thought of that until now. I may have a faulty switch. When I rode today I couldn't tell the difference between hi or low. On a side note, I did the drawings in paint and saved them as .jpg then uploaded like a normal picture. |
