| Author | Message | ||
     Nose2wind |
Have been reading past threads on dual headlights. Most seem to be from 2006. Don't know if 09 are any different. From what I read each light is a single filiment bulb and the reflector is also different. Thus if you try to run dual lights the only setup that will work is a high beam and low beam on together when the switch is on at high beam setting. Low beam will still produce only one light. Is that correct? If so could you confirm which wire I need to bridge for this. Thanks D | ||
| Froggy |
Not at all.
Correct, both bulbs are the same, the difference for high and low is the reflector.
The way 99% of the population does it is you can have low beam on, then when you flip to high beam the high also comes on for both without turning off the low. You could in theory do the opposite and have high be on all the time, and turn on low on demand. There are are a few ways to do this mod, you can open the headlight wiring connector and swap the wires around, or some people open the left switch housing and solder the connection on the high beam switch. | ||
| Mnrider |
I did the h/l mod and I like it,much more light. Some had concerns that the small ground wire may not be able to handle both lights on so I grounded the h/ls separate by cutting one ground wire at the h/l assy and making a separate ground attached to the steering head. Now each bulb has its own ground. | ||
| Nose2wind |
There are are a few ways to do this mod, you can open the headlight wiring connector and swap the wires around Sorry, couldn't figure out how to do quotes... So at the headlight connector you create a jumper wire from the high beam + over to the low beam + Does that sound right? Do you know which color the wires are? Thanks, D | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've been thinking about putting an FXDF headlight assembly on my Uly. The fatbob has dual lo / dual hi beam lights (2-filament bulbs), and they're *about* the same size as the Uly / XB lights. Dunno how well it'd work out though...and until I find a used set I won't be messing with it as it's an expensive unit. Of course, I'd have to strip the chrome off it... | ||
| Mnrider |
I'm at work so I don't have my s/m handy but you switch the orange/white and which ever is the low beam pwr,I think the yellow at the 4 wire h/l connector. | ||
| Froggy |
I would have to look up the pictures, but basically you pop open the connector, and swap the low beam wire with the unused position light wire. It takes longer to take the flyscreen off than to do the mod, and no cutting or solder. | ||
| Nose2wind |
I would have to look up the pictures, I'm a little confused. I will have the flyscreen off tomorrow to change over to the Madstad. Is there a thread which shows a pic of the conector and how to do this? I did not find it in my prior search.\ Thanks, D | ||
| Ratbuell |
It's easy to spot, the connector is white and it has 4 wires. They can be hand-followed to the lights themselves. 4 wire: white yellow black striped (I want to say orange w/white, but I could be wrong) White is hi beam Yellow is lo black is ground stripe is position light | ||
| Mnrider |
There was a great thread on this with pics. Remove the flyscreen. Unplug 4 wire h/l connector. Flip over the cover on the connector(harness side,bike side) Take a paper clip or pic tool or eyeglass screwdriver push the wire into the connector to release pressure on the little tab on the wire that holds it in the connector and stick the tool in the slot to remove wire from connector,o/w wire. Remove yellow wire(I think the yellow is the low beam,better check to be sure) and insert the o/w wire where the low beam wire was and the low beam wire where the o/w was. Plug it back in and check for both lights on with high beam. When you get the flyscreen off that should make sense. Each wire has a little tab that holds it into the connector that you have to carefully release to pull the wire out. | ||
| Unrealtrip |
Keep in mind you can no longer use the headlight flash button when you're highbeams are on, and you of course lose the ability to do the "cop" light thing. I did it but went back to stock because I like the ability to flash my headlights even with my highs on. | ||
| Froggy |
You can still flash with your highs on, just put the switch back to low... | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Below is a link to the thread that I followed: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/329497.html?1200110631 | ||
| Nose2wind |
Did the headlight mod and installed the Madstad. Headlight mod was easy and the Madstad looks to be a high quality item. Haven't had a chance to test them... Thanks for all the help and links. D (Message edited by nose2wind on November 21, 2009) | ||
| Slamber777 |
http://www.rhinowerx.com/fotos/details.php?image_i d=2501 | ||
| Tootal |
Another option for lighting is to change the bulb to an Osram 65 watt bulb. It's a H9 bulb soldered to a H7 base. So if your lights are still on the lame side you still have an upgrade available. Here's a link with a good price: http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products _id=164 | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Non-wiring method using a 3.5" black O-ring. You can buy one at ACE hardware but I got mine from a Yamaha oil filter. Double it by figure eighting the o-ring and slide over the left grip. Then stretch part of it as shown in the photo and then you can roll it over the trigger switch and it will stay. I did this to my son's ULY and it works great and never comes off unless you roll it off on purpose. I did the pin method to my ULY and it works fine except that now the headlight comes on in the PARK key position. That'll eat the battery but quick if you leave it in PARK when you don't know it.     | ||
| Midnightrider |
I know it's been mentioned in other threads but since I don't see it here - if you take apart the switch assembly you'll see there's are two little notches in a piece of plastic where a spring loaded ball bearing pops down and engages for the low and high beam position. It's really simple to add another notch (dremel) right between them. In this position both high and low beams are on. I can't say if the flash thing works though, because after I did that mod I installed an HID kit and wired the low beam through the factory switch (added a relay too) but the high beam I wired separately through a toggle switch I added inside the handguards. My concern with the HIDs was too avoid the initial high draw with HIDs during startup. So I turn the factory switch to the high beam position during startup (since the factory high beam position is connected to nothing there is no draw) then flip down to low beam after its running. During the day I can then use the handguard toggle to add high beams for the two headlight option. Another reason I added the separate toggle is for night use. When I do want to go to high beams I add the high to the low and avoid the 3-5 second "no beam" situation that occurs when you switch to low from high ( and vice versa) with HIDs as you cut power to one beam while the other is warming up. | ||
| Alchemy |
Midnightrider, How do you like the switch in the handguards? It is a cool idea if it can be well done. I have been looking for a method of adding an additional switch that won't look too lame. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
did the dual headlight wiring mod last night by swapping yellow with orange/white on the headlight connector, not the wiring harness connector. It took a while to figure out how to pull the pins out - lots of small pieces that were hard for me to see how they fit into the connector. Once I figured that out though, the job went quick. I like it. I'm thinking about pulling the parking lamp out, and replacing it with an angel eye in the bright headlight reflector. That way the angel eye switches on any time the bright bulb is off. | ||
| Midnightrider |
Al I'm happy with the handguard switch. I mounted a long toggle inside the guard. Drilled a hole through the strengthening vertical rib thats located about 2 inches in from center. Installed a long ( and lighted ) toggle I can flip with my index finger while keeping my hand on the left grip. The toggle has a little red LED on the tip which lets me know its on while not blinding or distracting me at night. I ran the wires through some 1/4 inch wire protector ( looks like a little vacuum cleaner hose) and zip-tied it to the other wires that come off the left handlebar. I coated the connections with a goop of dielectric grease then applied several layers of electrical tape. Not waterproof, but fairly water resistant I think. Haven't had an issue in over a year with it. | ||
| Nadz |
White/Orange - Yellow swapperoo wrkt fore me. Mo' vis for zero buckers, thanky kindly! Gonna bridge the Blue and Yellow in the switch so I can still have a park lamp (if you do the swap method, lo-beam is on in Park). Seen dumbasses almost back into my 'Bolt in a p-lot, so I want that feature. Just gotta find a micro-wattage replacement for the marker light bulb and I figure it'll run for hours. Anyone find a good LED that fires sideways? -NadZ | ||
| Froggy |
Several of the 1125 guys has swapped the marker lights with LEDS with good results. Lemme dig up the info. http://www.sporttwin.com/index.php?/topic/19311-in stalling-hids-on-an-1125r/page__view__findpost__p_ _176374 | ||
| Nadz |
Yeah, I was thinking about these SuperBright LED's or something similar. What are Buell P/N 53436-97 (marker bulb) and 53436-97 (plate bulb) commonly called? Sorry for threadjack, but search fails and I'm sure all the brand new Uly guys want to know anyway. | ||
| Pso |
I just place the rocker switch half way between hi and lo. I put a white dot at that location on switch. Works just fine for both lights on. | ||
| Froggy |
Until you do that wheelie down a hill and hit a pothole that makes you tap the rear brake.... | ||
| Marioavelar |
Do you guys think applying this mod could harm the bike´s electrical system? I mean running from time to time with both headlights on, would it possibly "extra charge" the electrical circuit? |
