| Author | Message | ||
     Sharkguy |
Hey everyone, I've been lurking on here for a couple of months now. I finally found a Uly; an 09 with 7500 miles on it. After checking some things on the bike I thought I'd check out the clutch free-play adjustment. The owners manual is pretty vague concerning this. A ferrule is mentioned but I don't see an adjustable one on the handle end of the clutch like most other bikes. I'm assuming the adjustment is made inside the primary through the inspection plate. Is this correct? Also there is a slight oil seep from where the clutch cable enters the primary cover. No drip yet just a bit of oil on the black cover, Anyone else have this? I love this bike so far, but haven't had a chance to ride it much yet. Going to ride up to Tallahassee this weekend (hopefully)for a rally/shakedown cruise. Just want to make sure everything is right on the bike before heading up there. Thanks in advance for any help. | ||
| Dio |
The cable sheath adjuster is under a bellows-shaped boot on the clutch cable just below the front exhaust header. The oily residue is from the cable to primary cover connection, and may just be loose. I think the cable is threaded into the primary cover and maybe just a slight tightening may dry it up. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
I think the cable is threaded into the primary cover and maybe just a slight tightening may dry it up. be careful on tightening that cable at the primary cover! I broke it off on mine! I had to take it to the dealer to get it fixed. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
There is an O ring in there. If the seep bothers you, a new O ring should fix it right up. | ||
| Xbimmer |
There is an O ring in there. If the seep bothers you, a new O ring should fix it right up. That, and use the same Permatex sealant on the threads that you need for the drain plugs. Just snug the cable into the cover. My original '06 cable leaked at the crimp to the sheath, the replacement didn't. Before I replaced it I used rubber electrical tape to wrap the crimp, worked fine. | ||
| Sharkguy |
Thanks for the advise everyone. I'll do the adjustment this evening. As for the seep, I think I'll wait until the tranny lube is ready to be changed then deal with that. It is not much but being a relatively new bike I want to fix it. Sounds like a new O ring and some sealant will fix it up. Thanks again guys! | ||
| Xbimmer |
You should probably get a Factory Service Manual also, the cable will have to come out of the primary cover to replace the o-ring and there is procedure involved. Since you'll be removing the lever end of the cable also, before you replace it make sure the lever is clean and well greased in there. That barrel at the upper cable end needs to pivot freely in the lever or broken strands will result. | ||
| Sharkguy |
Thanks for the advise Xbimmer,I plan on getting a service manual soon. I just got the bike registered today, so the pockets are a little light right now. | ||
| Tootal |
If I remember correctly I changed my clutch cable without draining the oil in the primary/transmission. I had it on a hydraulic bike lift so it was perpendicular and not on the side stand. It did not leak when I pulled out the cable. If you pull it out, clean the hole real well and change the o-ring on your old cable. Lubricate it with Hylomar or Dow Corning 111 or 112, or any other o-ring lubricant. Heck, grease would probably work just fine. Most o-rings are damaged during installation, not from use. While the cable is disconnected from the clutch you can set the set screw on the clutch. I believe it's a quarter to half turn out from being in the seated position. After installation you can set the clutch lever to your desired location with the cable adjuster by the front exhaust as mentioned above. Happy wrenching! | ||
| Pso |
This list also had the part # of a rubber boot that would fit over the lever and end of the clutch cable. I think it was from a Honda or Kawasaki. I got one and it keeps all the crud out of the pivot point where the strands start to break. Also there is a thread about using a zip tie on the upper portion of the rubber boot covering the adjuster to keep water from getting in and going into the primary area. As Tootal was saying there is a procedur for adjusting the clutch withinin the housing that is very simple if you have the page from the shop manual. | ||
| Sharkguy |
I just ordered the shop manual and a replacement O ring. Now I need to make the exhaust cradle to use with my lift. I found the thread on using a zip tie on the top of the rubber boot. I greased up the top ferrule with some dielectric grease and pulled the boot down on it and zip tied it in place. Looks like it will work well to keep the water out. I'll have to go out and look at my KLR. I think it has one of those boots on the lever you are talking about Pso. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Here ya go:   I had to trim a bit from the underside to clear the clutch switch, and cut a bit off the end where the cable exits (which isn't necessary). Works great, keeps the grease clean. | ||
| Sharkguy |
Now that looks like a good, cheap, fix. My wifes V Star has a similar boot. I'll look for one. Thanks Xbimmer! |
