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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through November 06, 2009 » Check Engine Light troubleshooting « Previous Next »

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Ksc12c
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I went for a ride this afternoon and noticed my Check engine light would come on and stay on for a few minutes. Never flashed or entered Skip Spark mode. When I got home I hooked up EMC Spy to check for trouble codes.

No current codes, but under historical I had one error code 13 ( O2 Sensor) and Two error code 21s ( Valve actuator).

I checked the O2 sensor and the top was covered in bird parts it appeared to be a Beak and a leg. I also pulled a few more bits out of the fan too. I remember hitting a bird, but I figured be bounced off. : ) I really don't think that was the issue. I ran the Valve actuator diagnostic and lubed the the cable at the air box and Muffler. It appeared to move freely.
I checked most of the ground wires and they appear tight.
Any suggestions on troubleshooting or other checks?

Thanks, Kevin
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Xbimmer
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Florida_lime, Etennuly and I were battling through this through the summer... you might get some info in these threads:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/482464.html?1248391176

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/476528.html?1247752003

I know your bike is throwing the codes for other things but so was/is mine and my problems lay elsewhere.

After replacing the O2 Sensor, intake seals twice, fiddling with wires and grounds and who remembers what else, I replaced the ETS and it's much better.

However my bike still will sometimes do what yours is doing, even though it's running fine. And it did go to skip-spark once very briefly after a traffic episode followed by a fast freeway blast on a 90 degree day.

I think my bike may actually be running hotter. I'm starting to accept the fact that I may have to rotate the motor and pop the jugs, at 61K things in there might need attention.
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Ksc12c
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 04:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I rode the bike today. Not a peep from the Check engine light.The bike ran great! Intermittent problems can drive you crazy.
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Xbimmer, What oil are you running?

Mine has shown me solid red light a few times at cruising speeds on the interstate lately 70+. Again, backing off the throttle turns it off. I also think it is actually running just borderline too hot. I don't want to cause any un-due changes for anyone, so for now I will say that my current experiment includes going back to a non-synthetic. I only got in a 160 mile ride, but didn't have the opportunity to stretch its legs. Since the new ECM, and other stuff, it only has hit F/L/RS once(two up, BAW, and loaded - 90+ mph in fourth gear passing a truck up hill)temp was in the mid 60's.

I will get back here with results, after more testing, and some new thoughts about it when I can.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Running Syn3 right now, had some left from 2006.

Was running Rotella-T 15/40 last winter/spring and went to Mobil 1 15/50 before summer.

The engine's sounding like it may have a sticking lifter(s) these days, I'm thinking an exhaust valve not fully opening could be heating the engine up, but I'm ignorant.

Getting tired of throwing money at it.
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Did you have the F/L/RS when you ran the Rotella? Did it start after you went to synthetic? I can't recall exactly, but that seems to be when mine started.

Just my opinion, the synthetic oils are much slipperier, have smaller molecules, can deal with heat better(for its own sake).

The dino oils have larger molecules, that cushion internal impacts better(parts that touch)ergo the engine is quieter, also they absorb and carry heat away better and do a better job of transferring the heat out while passing through the oil cooler and tank.

I have drained the Mobil 1 out of my bike when it is hot two times. It comes out thinner than water. My curiosity is aimed at the idea that it flows so well and so much easier it does not absorb and carry heat away from the heads as it flows over them. And for the idea of not carrying heat away from the heads as well, it just cycles over them building heat in the oil, but not cooling the heads enough as it flows back through. Usually it had to be hotter temperatures to do it, but since all of the fixes, the light has come on at a steady 70 mph at 60F, so this test can still be valid.

This is just my unscientific opinion, an idea that has been going around in my head. So I changed oil back to non synthetic to try it. What the heck, it is a cheap test and one that I had not tried it yet. Testing resumes.....
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 03:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One of my Uly riding buds switched to syn oils at his first service. It sounded like a bag of marbles in a dryer. He took it back in, had them switch to dino and it was as quiet as mine was. He ran like three oil changes before going back to syn oils.

I ran nearly 30,000 on dino oils before switching. Now at 43,000 going back to it to test this situation.
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