| Author | Message | ||
     Hughlysses |
Looks like I've finally been struck by an electrical gremlin. Today I lost power to the auxiliary electrical outlets, the turn signals stopped working, and the taillight stopped working. Everything else is fine (high and low headlights, brake light, fan, ignition, gages, etc.). I checked auxiliary power fuse, pulled and reinserted the auxiliary relay; no change. It doesn't seem to be intermittent (I tried turning the handlebars lock to lock a few times and didn't see any change). Anybody had this particular gremlin? I'll be studying the electrical schematics, but if anyone's got a good idea what's the most likely point of failure, please let me know. | ||
| Itileman |
My non-expert number one thought is ground fault. Second is a fuse - sometimes it's hard to tell if one of those little buggers is blown just by looking at it. But, then, I'm blind in one eye and don't see real well out of the other. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Did a little further investigation- evidently the problem's in the ignition switch. I swapped a couple of relays, and initially noticed no difference. Switched the bike on and off a couple of times, when suddenly I had power to the auxiliary outlet (LED volt meter is tied into that so it instantly indicates if I have voltage or not at outlet). I switched it off and back on, still OK. Cranked bike and let it idle for a minute or so, turned handlebars lock to lock rapidly and bounced bike against the front brake, everything kept working fine. Turned bike off and back on- no power again. I noticed voltage LED would just flicker as I turned ignition switch on and off, until after a few tries it came back on again. Finally I figured out with the key on, I could wiggle it and make the power come on every time. I had forgotten I had a similar problem a while back where the needles wouldn't sweep and the fuel pump wouldn't run when I turned the ignition on. This happened sporadically 2 or 3 times. I found I could prevent this by FIRMLY turning the key to the on position when I switched it on. These 2 gremlins sure make it seem like my switch is eventually going to go bad, but I still think I'll try this thing for a while before I resort to replacing the ignition switch. So, has anybody had to replace an ignition switch on their Uly yet? | ||
| Mnrider |
I wonder if you could take it apart and clean and sand the contacts.I've done that on pwr. window switches.I don't know if it comes apart though. | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Hugh, I had to replace my ignition switch recently. Have a look at this. And a link to my follow up as well. Hope this helps! Tipsy | ||
| Hughlysses |
Tipsy- Thanks for the info. Rode the bike to work this morning; it did the same deal when I first turned it on- no voltage to aux outlet. I wiggled the key a little and it came right on and stayed on all the way to work. Two questions- (1) How much is the ignition switch? (2) Can I replace just the electrical portion without removing the entire assembly from the bike, or do I have to buy a tamper-proof Torx wrench and remove the whole lock assembly first? thanks in advance | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Hugh, the electrical part of the switch is inexpensive. The part number is C0152.1AD and it's about $26-$32 depending upon where you purchase it. You will have to remove the ignition switch assembly which is secured with a #45 tamper proof (security) Torx. I bought a set of Lisle bits at Sears but they sell individual Craftsman bits too. I have quite a bit of extra wiring under my flyscreen (including two HID ballasts) so it was a bit of a pain to disassemble everything. But if yours is stock, it's a very straight forward job to get to the switch. Hope this helps. Tipsy (Message edited by tipsymcstagger on October 09, 2009) | ||
| Rotorhead |
The electrical part of the switch has a few small places to blow in contact cleaner. I used a ton to clean mine out when the same issues you had happen for about 6 months. I cleaned it before shelling out the $26. I'm cheap. Once the contact cleaner ran clear(about 1/4 can it was crazy dirty) and dried out I sprayed in some white grease till it was full and have had zero issues for the last year. The key turns really easy now too. | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
To add to what Rotorhead said, although the electrical part of the switch is not meant to be disassembled, it can be pried open. I did this, cleaned it with contact cleaner and then lubed it with dielectric grease. It seemed to work perfectly after doing so but I'd done so much disassembly (with all of my additional wiring, etc) just to get to the switch, I decided I'd rather be safe than sorry so I replaced the switch while I had it apart. I'll be away from the computer for the rest of the weekend...heading down to the PB300 with the 450 EX-C! Tipsy | ||
| Etennuly |
Before you pull the switch out, that sounds like the broken wire in the steering head bundle. Inside the red wire splice, they will break and it cannot be seen until the heat shrink is cut off. Try to get it to do it then wrestle the wire bundle a bit to see if it lights up. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Tipsy- Thanks for the info. ~$30 isn't bad if I have to buy one. Good to know I can get the Torx bit at Sears. Dave- thanks for the suggestion about contact cleaner. That's certainly worth a try. Vern- thanks for the suggestion but it seems like it's got to be the switch. I can make the problem come and go with the bike sitting stationary by wiggling the ignition switch. Turning the forks side-to-side has no effect. | ||
| Thrux181 |
Mine did the same thing. It was the switch. | ||
| Chopped58 |
Here's one that happened to me 2 days ago. While returning from a cross country trip, I turned north on I-81 in Tennesee. A few miles later the bike dies. Pull over to the side, no lights, no crank nothing.  After some troubleshooting, my friend found this..  If you look close you can see the crack on the right side. It was not blown but broke. I guess the vibrations, and wires moving around weakened it, and it broke. It was the 15a ignition fuse. Weird, but an easy fix! (Message edited by chopped58 on October 09, 2009) | ||
| Missin44 |
What the hell it that you have strapped to the rear? | ||
| Chopped58 |
5 gal fuel tank for extra range. | ||
| Etennuly |
Wolfridgerider told me he had to change his ignition switch about a year ago. I don't know his exact symptoms. | ||
| Ronmold |
Hugh, did you mod your lights for H/L on together? | ||
| Rays |
Hugh - I was alerted to the ignition switch issues by Tipsy's post and had mine start to give trouble exactly as you describe. There are slightly different symptoms depending on which contacts get grubby. I posted some pictures on my repair here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/466128.html?1245416650 I also bought a spare electrical switch but the clean-up has been working without issue for quite a while now. |
