| Author | Message | ||
     Bikesquatch |
Well I have lost the second rear wheel bearing in less than 8000 miles. First one happened around 4000 miles last year. This time I was cruising back from Fairbanks AK in a terribly cold rainstorm with my wife trailing behind on her Ninja 250 when the bike suddenly shuddered and started shaking violently. Making all the telltale noises I had heard before. The worst part is that it was 6:00 pm Sunday and I was 130 miles from civilization, and a trailer, and help. I had been paranoid of this ever since it happened last year so I check the bearing regularly, and it was fine when I left for the weekend. I know that there were issues in past years with the rear bearings but I was really hoping that my 08 would be problem free. I'm now at a crossroads, do I get it fixed again and hope for the best? Or do I start looking to sell it. Being let down again by the bike I love to ride, far from home and in crappy weather ins't terribly acceptable. I own the bike and the dealer up here is great, they even picked the bike up yesterday and I'm waiting to hear the damage report. When I stopped there was nothing left of the bearing, I had been cruising along at 70 when it happened. I have pics if I can figure out how to post them. So I am asking the masses, what do you think?  | ||
| Rwven |
I think you are a prime candidate for the new 2010 rear wheel upgrade. If your dealer is on the ball they should be able to get it done under warranty. | ||
| Froggy |
The bearings were upgraded on the 09s, and totally redesigned on the 2010. The 2009 upgrade will work with your current wheel, while the 2010 upgrade will require a new wheel. | ||
| Bikesquatch |
I really hope that I can get it fixed where I won't have to constantly worry about being stranded. I bought the extended warranty with the bike, and it is an 08 so it is under warranty. Looking at the carnage it might need a new wheel regardless due to the damage. Quite sad that a much older Ninja 250 with more miles is able to best my new bike concerning reliability. I am going to see what the damage assessment is first and what course of action the dealer is going to take before I make any plans to get a replacement bike. | ||
| Mnrider |
Tell your dealer you want the 2010 3 bearing rear wheel under warranty. | ||
| Bikesquatch |
Called the dealer and requested the latest and greatest. Waiting on a call back with the damage report, although it didn't sound promising getting the 2010 setup. Will update when I hear. Thanks guys. | ||
| Ulynut |
Sucks. | ||
| Snub13 |
If you (may) need a new wheel, you may as well go for a 2010. I had to replace my wheel this year due to bearing issues.......just prior to the factory coming out with the 2010 model! I trashed a Uly rear wheel bearing in AK (found it the day before we went to McCarthy). One of the Alaska Rider Tours bikes, they were great, swapped bikes and continued the trip. What a state! Good luck with everything Tim | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
I'm going with the 2010 wheel(s). The rear bearings on my '08 failed but I identified the failure before it left me stranded. The telltale for me was a buzz in the foot pegs that I hadn't felt in the past. The price of the 2010 wheels is the price of peace of mind. And I plan to have them powder coated black out-of-the-box. Keep the bike and buy a new wheel. Tipsy | ||
| Bikesquatch |
About half way back from Fairbanks to Wasilla I noticed the seal had popped out and the bearing was going. Not much to do at that point but get as far as I could and call for help. Still had to be at work on Monday. I honestly thought it would last a few more miles than it did but with as much rain as it saw during the last 100 miles that probably did it in. Stopping half way or riding until it took a crap both required a trailer so I figured the closer I was to home the better. | ||
| F_skinner |
Mine went out today, 2009 Uly, Black seal bearings at 11K miles. Jut called HCHD and no bearings in stock so I will go with the new wheel. Does anyone have the part numbers for the wheel and associated parts? Frank (Message edited by f_skinner on September 16, 2009) | ||
| Bikesquatch |
Ok, got a call back from the dealer. Wheel is in good enough shape to be reused, the spacer inside needs replaced though. They are going to put in the newer bearings but still the 08/09 style. I thought I got the newer model bearings last year but I guess not. So I shall ride until I break the bearings again, hopefully have the bike back within 5 days or so. The riding season up here is winding down fast and we are having unusually good weather that I am dying to take advantage of, and the worst part of this is that my wife cannot ride because she only has her permit and needs me to ride with her. So this issue is causing 2 people to be stuck at home after work watching the last of the good weather pass by. Thanks again for the replies everyone. | ||
| F_skinner |
I have no visible signs of wear and the wheel seems solid without side play. However, I am getting the clicking noise when I roll it in and out of the garage. | ||
| F_skinner |
And...... My search function is not working and I cannot find the thread with the part numbers. | ||
| Hughlysses |
From Court's wheel replacement thread, everything you need (by the book) to do the upgrade: Part No. Description # Required Total Cost 6400HB Washer 6 5.40 AA0609.11CXZB Screw - GR8 - 3/8-16X1-1/8 6 18.89 CA0005.9A7 Screw - 5/16 Brake Rotor 6 10.80 G1309.1AKYBQ Kit - Rear - Wheel - Magnesium Tone 1 302.40 Less BADWEB DISCOUNT 1 -33.60 Labor 1.5 135.00 Total Cost = $510.88 | ||
| Bikesquatch |
I will look into that if and when this latest bearing fails. Thanks for all the info, I hope more than me find it useful. | ||
| F_skinner |
Hughlysses, Thank you for the info. I need to think this one over. I checked the Buell web site and the only thing that come up for wheels on the Uly were tires. Strange. | ||
| F_skinner |
I decided to get the bearings replaced since it is under warranty and tomorrow is my last day at work and funds may be tight until I start a new job. I think 1313 and RD had the black bearings go out as well. I wonder if the new bearings are getting any better mileage that the old ones. | ||
| Jphish |
That is interesting. Some of us did a preemptive strike and replaced the red with the black bearings. If FSkinner (and possibly 2 others?) had a failure @ 11k mi - that don't bode well for any of us. Guess I'll still keep those replacement bearings I got from American Sport Bike in the side case. | ||
| Bikesquatch |
The first and second failure had a red seal on the bearing. | ||
| F_skinner |
Good idea to carry spares. I carry a lot of crap because I absolutely hate to be stranded on the side of the road. I would rather 1313 and RD say something but I think they had the new bearings. The 11K miles were mostly highway and about 600 miles were in rain. I have been off road maybe three times including a ride up and down Pikes Peak. I crossed on river (4 inches maybe) when the road flooded. I replace bearings every 20 to 30K miles on all my bikes. I usually have to replace the neck bearings twice before wheel bearings. I am not pissed or thrilled. It happens and riding a motorcycle and requires a certain amount of preventative maintenance on the part of the rider. I will pop the covers and lube them from time to time in the future. | ||
| Conchop |
NTSB = recall time! | ||
| Frostymug |
5 days!! They didn't have the bearings in stock? (Message edited by frostymug on September 16, 2009) | ||
| Bikesquatch |
Yeah, they didn't have any in stock. I am hoping that 5 days is a worst case scenario. | ||
| Nobuell |
I am in the process of installing new tires. When I removed the wheels, the bearings rolled very smoothly. The orange seals (june 08 build) looked good with no signs of leakage or rusting. They have 14K miles. Should I pop the seals and install/verify the grease? Thanks | ||
| Etennuly |
I took the seals out and regreased mine every time. They made it to 33,000 miles. They will come out easily with a safety pin, make sure the grease is clean and not brownish, most had blue grease in them. Push a little more grease in them and the seal will press right back in with a finger. If you over fill them it will squeeze back out, a little air in there is good. I usually wiped a thin coat of anti-sieze on the outside of the seal and bearing to help keep water out. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Here's a re-post of Al Lighton's post on wheel bearings and installation from a few months back. It may be that some of the failed black seal bearings weren't installed properly and that's why they failed prematurely. Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 - 10:30 pm: I have spoken with folks at Buell that are quite knowledgeable on all of this, and can provide the following info. 1) The original FAG bearings (black) [comment- used on early XB's] were replaced by NTN bearings [red/orange seals] that had better seals and less hygroscopic grease. The new KBC bearings [black seals] have yet again better (stiffer) seals and still better grease. They also have a better lines of communication into the bearing supplier themselves. Bottom line, the change to the bearing isn't just some cost cutting move..they ARE better. 2) The design of the wheel shoulders and internal spacer tube are such that in the worst case tolerance stackup of NEW wheels, bearings, and spacer tubes, the inner race on the bearing OPPOSITE the caliper/rotor will be seated against the inner spacer with just less than 0.5mm clearance between the rear wheel shoulder and the outer race, and just less than 0.25mm on the front wheel. All of this assumes that the bearings are installed correctly (rotor side bearing seated in wheel, spacer installed, opposite bearing installed until inner race seats against spacer tube). What this means is that IF the bearings are installed correctly, AND the spacer tube is not damaged, overtorquing the axle slightly shouldn't cause an inelastic deformation of the spacer tube. If Mongo gets a hold of it and gets brutal with the breaker bar during installation, all bets are off. 3) The bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. Buell doesn't utilize thermal methods (i.e., hot wheel, cold bearing) for installation, they rely on process control and proper tooling. 4) When a bearing goes more than a little bad, it is possible and likely that the end of the spacer tube can be damaged. In this case, the margins afforded by the design as described in 2) above can be affected. Some bearing removal tools can also damage the ends of the spacer. So inspect that spacer tube with each bearing change. 5) Related to 4, future service manuals may provide for an inspection dimension on that spacer tube. But it isn't there now, so here are the nominals: Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch | ||
| Tginnh |
Ok, next tire change I'm installing new bearings and a new belt (going to carry the old one as a spare) on my 06. I've read too many failed bearing and belt posts now. Given that I just blew a fork seal and bad things come in 3s... I'm a little confused about all the different bearings. Question - what bearings will I end up with when order them at the parts counter for an 06? The originals (FAG)? The ones with orange seals (NTN)? Or the latest (KBC)? | ||
| Hughlysses |
The original FAG bearings were phased out in ~2003, so you definitely won't get those. Unless your dealer has old bearings in stock, odds are he'll have to order them and will almost certainly get the KBC's. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Make SURE they order these:  The "B" suffix is important. When these first came out I called the local dealer and asked for the superseded part for the original NTN part# I gave him. He said they had them in stock but when I got there he brought out a bunch of the NTN's! He seemed to me to be a little confused about the word "superseded"... |
