| Author | Message | ||
     Thegibbon |
My 2006 Uly with about 24k miles on it has just started surging at all speeds. It feels like the usual surge around 2500 rpm, but is now present up to at least 5000 and is very consistent. It's not bucking violently, popping, etc, just an annoying surge that feels like I'm riding on a bumpy road. The bike also seems to be running hotter. I've tried several TPS resets, checked the primary chain, replaced the spark plugs, tested the resistance in the spark plug wires, cleaned the air filter and replaced the breather hoses, run all diagnostics and tried tuning the fuel map with ECMspy - nothing has helped. Before I take it apart again, should my next course of action be to replace the intake seals and possibly the ETS? Looking at ECMspy logs, the temperature rises evenly and stays in a normal range. AFV stays below 110, and the TPS deg. rises evenly as I turn the throttle. The only number that's jumpy is the EGO Corr, which fluctuated between 90-120. Thanks for any advice. | ||
| Thunderbox |
Sounds like an intake leak to me. Check for a leak and if you has one put the Map back to were it was and fix the leak. I am not sure what is meant by the usual 2500rpm surge. My 06 has never experienced that. (Message edited by Thunderbox on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Tootal |
Since you have ecmspy, after your tps reset you set your idle. Usually if there is no intake leak then you end up around 5.1 tps. If it's 3.1 or so at idle then your intake is leaking. Pulling the scoops off and using WD40 spray around the seals will verify. Any rpm difference, higher or lower, is a leak. If it's leaking replace them with: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=pH26258&lea fCatId=&mmyId= Good luck! | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Sounds like possibly a bad ECM/connector issue (if it isn't the intake leak). | ||
| Thegibbon |
By usual 2500 rpm surge I mean that it's always run a bit rough between 2-3000 rpm's, but smoothed out above 3000. I was assumed this was normal? The TPS has needed to be set closer to 8 than the usual 5.1 to get the idle near 1050 (it bounces around between about 1020 and 1080). Will be trying the WD-40 and pulling the multimeter back out this weekend - thanks for the tips! | ||
| Froggy |
Not normal. | ||
| Tootal |
Might try the Treadmarks true tps zero. Here are his words: I had the surging around 3k and hated it. New wires helped with the stumble, but the surging was still there. This is what fixed the surging. Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results. In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following: With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states. Now you have a solid TPS zero. Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging. | ||
| Etennuly |
One thing I would like to add. This happened to me on two out of the three "06's that I have recently done the TPS reset on, clean the throttle plate with some carb cleaner. They were visibly sooty and blackened. The two bikes that had problems with this actually ran worse after the initial reset. Cleaned the throttle plate and bore and it made the reset accurate and the bikes both are running smoother than ever. One has 26,000 miles and one at 42,000. | ||
| Thesmaz |
My 06 used to do that when I was riding in rain or heavy fog (Belgium) and it ended up being the intake seals. I replaced them at about 18k miles and it's all good now. You may have a wire shorting somewhere. Have a close look at the wire bundles that attach to your ECM and below forks in the frame pass through. | ||
| Thegibbon |
New intake seals, new Magnecore wires, Treadmarks TPS zero, cleaned throttle body, and no visible bad wires. Problem is still there. While the throttle body was off I peeked inside the cylinders and the intake valves were a mess, totally black with deposits on them. The throttle body had oil and some sand in it. The original seals actually seemed fine, but it looks like a ton of oil and dirt managed to get in there at some point. Not ready to take the valves out, I'm hoping some Seafoam might do the trick. | ||
| Bcmike |
>>I am not sure what is meant by the usual 2500rpm surge. >> My 09 XB12XT with 4500 miles does this, seems to misfire at around 2500 rpm, almost feels like a surge.. Edit... Surge and misfire is gone.... a simple tps reset did the trick. I was very surprised by the difference, like a new bike. Must have been way out of whack since before I bought it. I'll bet gas mileage will improve.. will now pull smoothly from 1200 rpm. Also did a full service, cleaned the throttle body and tightened primary chain to 3/4" cold. After three weeks and three thousand K I love this bike! My commute home is 15 minutes but took 90 minutes tonight! (sorry about hijacking your thread) (Message edited by bcmike on September 24, 2009) | ||
| Thegibbon |
Still running like ****, still have seafoam in the gas, but don't have the highest hopes for that curing anything. In ECMSpy I disabled the O2 sensor and nothing changed. I did notice when poking around for bad grounds, etc, that one of the ECM connectors has a very faint burnt smell. Can only smell it with the connector unplugged. Is a new ECM the next step? It's getting harder to remember the good things about this bike... | ||
| Thegibbon |
Died on the road - fuel pump either makes no sound or a really weak one at key-on now. Not sure if that's been the problem all along. Still no blown fuses or error codes. It's beyond my abilities and patience at this point - hopefully it doesn't run too much at the dealer. | ||
| Etennuly |
Fuel pump wires are likely grounding to the fuel pump housing inside the tank. Mine did that. It has four wires that run under an aluminum bracket in an unprotected way. Fairly common problem, fairly easy fix. I did a pictorial how to thread back in March or April. It did not show codes or blow fuses. | ||
| Etennuly |
The wires are easily fixed and usually the pump is good. I did the entire job in less than two hours being the first time I had one out, and I was documenting the job. This would be a good time to do new filters in there. Filters, "O" rings, and materials should be around $50.00. |
