| Author | Message | ||
     Jim_williams |
Yep. Sounds like a dumb question, huh? Long story short, I'll be picking up my new 09 Uly and riding it home this weekend. By the time it gets home, it'll probably have 1500 miles on it. Bike currently has 7  I've never owned a Uly, and, if this bike was sitting in my garage, I'd have whatever I need to change the oil on it. On the road I travel light, and, in those 1500 miles, I plan on changing the oil twice, so, I need to know what tools, specialty or otherwise, I'll need. I'll pick up a couple filters, and, a filter wrench, so, I guess what I need to know is drain plug wrench, and, whatever needs to be removed for access. Hopefully, I'll have the service manual before leaving, making all this moot, but, maybe, not. Also, can I wait 1500 or so before changing primary? Or, do I need to do that on the road too? Thanks!  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Jim- you need a Torx driver to remove the chin fairing to get at the oil filter, but the required wrench is included in the bike tool kit. IIRC the drain plug is 5/8". Do NOT overtorque it or you will strip the threads. Hand snug is sufficient. It'd be a good idea to pick up a few O-rings for the plugs and some teflon pipe thread sealant (as recommended by the shop manual) for the threads. I'd change the primary oil at 1K; it's easier than the engine oil. Remove plug (also 5/8" IIRC), drain, reinstall plug. You can just remove the primary chain inspection cover (small cover near top of primary case) and dump in 1 quart of Formula+. No need to measure level; that'll be the right amount. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Keep an eye on the oil level. Mine ate about a quart when it was breaking in. No big deal  I suggest changing the tranny juice at the same time as the first oil change. You know, clean it out. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
simulpost! | ||
| Mnrider |
Jim I think you'll be OK waiting to do the primary oil till you get home.I would change the oil at 500 and then change it again at normal intervals. On 08 and up bikes I think you have to check the oil hot within a few seconds of shutdown to get a correct reading. (Message edited by mnrider on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Ratbuell |
First scheduled service is 1000 miles, all fluids. Some folks like to do it early "just in case"...but personally I don't see the point. Manufacturing specs and tolerances are so much better than they were in the 500 mile service days, it's just not needed. Keep an eye on your levels, top off as needed (the bikes ship from East Troy with 20/50 in the engine), and ride. I put Syn3 in my 06 Uly at 1k and it gets changed every 5k. That's it. Occasionally I even remember to check it between services. Never had an issue with that bike. It is, however, your trip and your bike (and your time/money). | ||
| Froggy |
Read this picture guide I made: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/467975.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/467974.html Both links are the same thing, but have different comments/tips left by others. | ||
| Timberwolf |
I think 500 mile service (or even less) is important on bikes that motor and trans. share the same oil. New clutches and gears I think shed a lot of particles you don't want floating around in the engine. So it's probably not nearly as critical with the Uly setup where the oils are separate. | ||
| Thunderbox |
Timberwolf. I know this is a common thought to get rid of the chunks and stuff like that but every bike that Buell makes has an oil filter that is capable of removing any of the things that float in the oil. I would rely on the filter to get that stuff out and wait until the 1000 mile oil change. It's just money wasted IMHO. I have been doing this a long time and have never seen a problem waiting till the first service. | ||
| Mnrider |
I like to do the first oil change early because of the dyes and chemicals used for assembly and storage,but the trans does'nt have as much of that in it. I might be temped to ride it home the 1500 and take care of it at home in my own garage with the proper tools. | ||
| Jim_williams |
thanks for the comments so far. I'd rather not get into the whole break in argument, but, I am a fan of the motoman technique, so, I'll be changing the oil after 50-100 miles or so, after running hard a bit. After that? I don't know. I might just bang it home. It'd probably be 1300-1500 later, then do the service in my garage. Also, thinking of stopping at Ratbuell's place and having them do the first service. I'm not paranoid about these things. There is a method to my madness. Thanks again for the thoughts, and, please, keep them coming  | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
Have a safe and great ride/trip! | ||
| Tootal |
+1 on the motorman, I concur. Another thing is that I changed to synthetic at 1000 miles and my bike just kept using oil. I switched back to dyno juice at 3000 miles and went 5000 miles before I switched back. It did quit using oil and now it's ok with synthetic. This is a point that many argue about, I'm just telling you my experience. | ||
| Pso |
Shortcut tip-You do not need to remove the chin fairing. Just 2 or three of the bolts on the left side, gives you enough room to remove oil filter. I go tthis tip from this web site and have used it last 3 times I changed oil. Sure makes it much easier if that can be done. 10 min. job at most.Have rags just in case however. Up to you as to what you are goingto do ref oil changes. | ||
| Rwven |
Pso, I think you meant the right side? The side the filter is on? I'll try that next time, the chin spoiler is plenty flexible. | ||
| Pso |
Rwven your are right I meant my other left. It does work very well, and now that I have the hiway pegs I think it is even more important for ease of getting to the filter. |
