Author |
Message |
Refurb
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 12:56 pm: |
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Current score: Wheel-Brake Assembly: 2 (broken T40 bit sockets) Refurb: 1 (T40 fastener removed from assembly) Yes, I used lots of heat (propane torch) before I saw that the factory used Blue threadlocker, not red. The Craftsman bit sheared the tip off in the 2nd fastener after I removed one. The Lisle bit just stripped/twisted the flutes Anyone have a tip? Source for a better tool? Magic incantation? The pulley came off without a hitch. |
Husky
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 02:09 pm: |
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http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=13 45&group_ID=11463 |
Pso
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 02:21 pm: |
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My 10MM bit in craftsman socket broke while attempting to remove front isolator bolt. seems like craftsman cannot take the 100-200 lbs it takes to break lose some of the Uly bolts. |
Alchemy
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 03:31 pm: |
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I broke 2 T-40 sockets trying to replace the rear rotor. I took it to a shop and paid a few bucks for them to remove it. They broke at least one socket as well. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 03:43 pm: |
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What wrench were you using? I used a Craftsman butterfly 3/8 impact wrench and one of their Torx sockets. I didn't even heat them. |
Refurb
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 04:54 pm: |
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>What wrench were you using? 1/2" drive Thorsen ratchet w/ 3/8'" adapter. I don't have impact tools. Maybe that's the ticket Husky - Thanks for the reference! |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2009 - 05:01 pm: |
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I used an impact driver also. I've had it for eons, I think I added a penny to my order from JC Whitney and received it. Worked great on all the phillips heads on the dirt bikes. I brought it out of retirement to do torx heads! Nothing fancy, just twist it and whack it with a hammer. My favorite part! Just curious, why are you taking it off? (Message edited by tootal on September 14, 2009) |
Etennuly
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 11:08 am: |
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To clarify, the impact wrench I used was air powered. I have the hammer type also, but I break more socket tips with it. The key to using the air tool is to use only a good proper fitting socket, get and keep the socket square and tight into the screw head. Push in to it and do not allow the socket to angle at all. I had my wheel off laying on a quilted blanket over a garbage can. That was very stable and allowed me to push down on the wrench as hard as I wanted to. |
Tiltcylinder
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 12:22 pm: |
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No impact gun or driver? Place bit into bolt head (hold it straight and true) and whack a few times sharply with a decent sized hammer. This will usually allow the fastener to be removed. Works well for torx and allens, does not seem to damage the tool or fastener. Been doing it for decades. The shock seems to break the 'bond' between the fastener and the threads. Steel and aluminum just don't play well together, that's the real reason for the locktite, separates the dissimilar metals. There are bits for use with impact tools and they are NOT the same as those for hand tools. Be careful with non-impact bits they shatter and emit small very sharp bits of metal, just ask any eye doctor... |
Refurb
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:08 pm: |
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>Just curious, why are you taking it off? Moving it to my new, 2010 spec wheel I did manage to get the disk off last night. I found another Craftsman bit that had a shorter machined area for the flutes. That worked for three of the screws. That just left 2 for the die grinder (not inconsistent with the "remove and discard" directions in the service manual). I used vise grips to get the bolt stubs out after the disk was off. Tootal and Tiltcylinder: I did try using my impact screwdriver (hammer, not air), so the bolts got whacked plenty, but didn't turn. Thanks for the help! Next time: air tools and high strength bits. I hope that will be far in the future. |
Tootal
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 06:29 pm: |
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Moving it to my new, 2010 spec wheel Cool! I just did wheel bearings and the book says to remove that stuff but there is no need at all. I was afraid you were just blindly following directions. I may do the wheel in the future, sounds like a much better design. Glad you finally got them off! |
Etennuly
| Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 12:10 pm: |
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The only reason they want to remove them is to use the bearing tool that they have. It is a requirement for that. |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 05:46 pm: |
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I like the design of my tool then! What a pain and expense for no good reason. IMO. So Vern, making it to Buelltoberfest? (Message edited by tootal on September 16, 2009) |
Etennuly
| Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:30 pm: |
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You bet! I am having a little lay over bonfire camping party Thursday afternoon/evening. I will be leading the party through a long Smoky Mountain ride to Suches Friday. You are invited! Just East of Knoxville Tn. Pm me for details. |