| Author | Message | ||
     Hughlysses |
Ted- the comfort kit must be better than the aftermarket RSS's. I rode my 07 for ~2 hours at 55-80 MPH in ~85 degree F temps on Sunday and the fan didn't come on until I got back into town and got stuck in traffic. The reflash only applies to 08 and 09 Ulys. | ||
| Charlie_zulu |
Thanks. Appreciated. | ||
| Ratbuell |
CZ - my fan used to do the same thing. Yesterday was the FIRST time (being oppressively hot and humid) the fan came on at ALL when I was riding. Until that (for over a week), the only time I ever heard my fan was during it's hi/lo/off cycle at key-off. The kit really is "that good". Right side of my frame, left side of my frame...same temp now. '06, Drummer, race ECM, no reflash. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Just ordered my kit from Surdyke HD online. $103 includes shipping!!! | ||
| Galloper |
Ordered the comfort kit today. It will cost here in the netherlands a whopping €193,- and it will take a month before they have it. (next time Eric I wanna kiss first) Gonna install the damn thing myself, had new tires today and a new battery (it failed at the dealer) so my wallet is empty again  | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
I decided to install the air duct tonight. Either the intructions aren't clear or I'm not seeing them correctly. Instruction photo shows the preload adjuster coming from under the duct, into a notch, through a clip, and through another notch. My adjuster tubing is wire tied to the main harness/ecm/etc. Does this wire tie need to be cut? If not, the duct lays on top of the harness and does not seal with the foam to the frame. What is the hole on the forward side of the duct for? I trimmed the transmission vent line per the picture, but am wondering if it needs to be trimmed more, the wire tie removed, and then routed into that hole. Thanks for any help, this is an '07 Uly. | ||
| Nobuell |
Marks3tbillet The hole is for the trans vent. The preload adjuster comes out of the duct on the left hand side. You will see a notch for it. Then it runs externally through the clip. The instruction pictures are not very clear regarding this issue. Good luck | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Thanks Nobuell: I understand the preload adjuster comes out the left side, but a wire tie needs to be cut to remove it from the main harness, right? Then I need to retie the harness. | ||
| Trevd |
Marks, I had to cut a tie last night when I installed mine... it confused me at first too. The preload cable goes on the inside of the shroud, until it pops out on the bottom... at least that's how I did mine. At first I tried to route it on the outside, coming out of the shroud on the top, but then the shroud didn't fit up nice and snug at the top. Once you route it on the inside of the shroud, the top of the shroud fits nicely, and the cutouts in the shroud fit the preload cable perfectly. Here's what mine looked like when I was done:   | ||
| Trevd |
Speaking of that transmission vent hose...what exactly does that do? I know it vents, but what does it vent? I may have cut mine too short to fit it into the hole at the top of the shroud - not a big deal I figure, but now it just kind of dangles there... pointing up at the sky. Just gets in the way... I'm thinking of strapping it to something to keep it down - any problem with doing that? | ||
| Hughlysses |
It vents air into and out of the transmission to allow for temperature changes. You can probably find a plastic barbed fitting at the auto parts store and make a splice in the pieces to make it long enough, or buy a new piece of hose and run it all the way from the transmission. It won't have any pressure on it, but you probably do want it venting underneath the shroud instead of randomly somewhere else. | ||
| Petereid |
transmission vent hose...what exactly does that do? Funny you should ask.....It makes a lovely home for a spider to lay its eggs. Once in they block the hose which then forces oil out through your clutch cable. Said oil then drips on the headers and produces a pretty puff of smoke. Concerned rider takes his bike back to the dealer for repair. Point to note: spiders are NOT covered under warranty  | ||
| Tootal |
Point to note: spiders are NOT covered under warranty BASTARDS! I was doing mine tonight but was interrupted by margaritas! I do not work on anything after margaritas! I'm on the way back. I did bolt the ecm on before I put the trunk base back in. Just tighten the bolt snug so you can still rotate it yet it doesn't have any up and down play. The hardest part was putting the damn saddlebag brackets back on. A real PITA! Now it's just the easy stuff. Not a bad job, just time consuming. I was impressed by how well the new part fit. It snaps right in! Well done Buell! A little late maybe but hey, at least you learn from your mistakes!! | ||
| Nobuell |
Trevd The preload should not go inside. It will rub against the shock spring and eventually wear through. I ran mine on the outside. There is a notch on the top left hand side of the shroud for the line to go through. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Looks like the duct might help keep the seat pan off the ECM, blocks or not. You guys rest easy regarding clipping zip-ties and such and moving things around, you'll probably be doing that anyway after some time and miles. Lots of great reports on the factory RSS, I'd REALLY like to see a couple of good pics of the mounted inner RSS section. | ||
| Trevd |
"The preload should not go inside. It will rub against the shock spring and eventually wear through. I ran mine on the outside. There is a notch on the top left hand side of the shroud for the line to go through." I worried about that too... but then I read the instructions closely, and looked at the picture in the instructions. I sure looks to me like the line goes on the inside of the shroud until it pops out of the notch right below the shroud part. The picture on the instructions looks a lot like the pics I posted above. I believe that the notch at the top of the shroud that you're referring to is meant to fit up nice and snug to the frame. I originally had routed the hose there, but after re-reading the instructions again and again, routed it through the shroud, thinking that the engineers at Buell must not be worried about the spring rubbing against it. I could be wrong though... | ||
| Nobuell |
Treved After looking at the directions, I agree, they show the hose inside. I had the hose inside as shown but did not like the way it was pushing against the spring. The preload adjuster is hydraulic and I did not want it to wear a hole in the hose. The original strap attaching it to the wire harness held it away from the spring/shock. The thickness of the gasket still allows a tight seal. | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Thanks guys for all the info. So, in my opinion what the instructions are missing: 1. Cut wire tie holding trans. vent hose to rear shock. After trimming the length and installing duct, put vent hose through hole in front of duct. 2. Cut wire tie holding preload adjuster to main wire harness if routing inside duct. If not, this wire tie can be kept intact?. 3. Remove left side tail piece to remove trunk pan. (Service Manual kind of says this.) Thanks again, Mark | ||
| Trevd |
I suspect that the clip for the preload adjuster hose keeps the top part away from the spring by snugging the bottom part to the shroud... But I am going to have to see if I can check it now that this has been brought up... The other thing I was thinking is that the top part of the spring probably doesn't move much - I suspect that it's the bottom part that's doing most of the movement. | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Well, I got the install completed. I cut the wire tie on the preload adjuster and routed it per the instructions. I cut the wire tie on the trans. vent line and put it in the front hole of the air duct. The trimming photo is misleading because it shows the line too long and it interferes with the seat tang unless you shorten it. I also had an interference with the fuel supply line and the air duct. I loosened the fuel line and rotated it toward the left side of the bike to remove this problem. Now for a test ride. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Got my comfort kit today. Installed the RSS part and took it for a ride. My oil temp at the swing arm dropped at least 10 degrees. Will install rest of kit next week. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Marks3tbillet- I found the same exact thing you did regarding the trans vent line and fuel line, although neither was obvious until I'd put everything back together and started going over the install closely. | ||
| Glenn |
Hi Hughlysses & Marks3tbillet, Can you post a couple of pictures to clarify this? Thanks | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Glen: Here are some pictures that should show you what we mean. Sorry they're not so good. By the way the kit performed well on my first ride. Fan never came on until I turned the engine off. Pictures in next post. (Message edited by marks3tbillet on August 22, 2009) | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Transmission Vent line  Air Duct/Fuel line after rotating fuel line toward left side of bike.  | ||
| Glenn |
That works. Thanks! | ||
| Kimberley |
For those of you who are having the dealer install.....are they charging you for that in addition to the cost of the kit?? | ||
| Firstbatch |
I did not read all the pages of this thread but does anyone know if the re-flash of the ECM as included into part of the Comfort Kit "upgrade" altered the temp setting in the ECM that the fan comes on-off from what had been the stock settings? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Firstbatch- Based on what's been reported I'd say the control temps have been changed; the new scheme also considers bike speed. Somebody reported that the fan seemed to come on earlier when the bike was moving, but it would shut down when the speed dropped below 11 MPH. Evidently the earlier start of the fan helps keep the frame cooler, but you don't have to listen to it while you're idling at a stop light under normal riding conditions. | ||
| Firstbatch |
Thanks Hugh, is the ECM re-flash available separately from the "kit" that could be installed via ECM SPY? |
