| Author | Message | ||
     Conchop |
I am getting ready to do my 10K service on my Uly. I have had a problem with a very harsh vibration between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Here are the qualifiers - It is at its worst when she is fully up to temperature. It is negligible once the motor rests and the fan runs out It becomes harsh again within just a few miles. The vibration is worst in the handlebars Here is what I've done with limited success - Silicon in the handlebars Handlebar weights Tighten the primary chain [ big help ] Irridium plugs Occasional TPS adjustments Replaced front isolator Synthetic oil. Occasionally lubricating the heim joints. The seat touches the rear jug - wore a hole in the heat blanket - separated the 2. Latest download Halved grip puppies Questions - Has anyone else had this issue with the 08 or 09? How did you fix it? Is there anything bouncing around and hitting a hard part under the air filter pan? Statement - The dealer has had it twice. Harley's shake and its a matter of status quo to the faithful. I have been told to keep it over 3k rpm's which I try to do BUT once you chop the gas for a curve, there is little sense to downshift as there is plenty of torque to pull you right back up to 35 to 5K rpm. I am reminded of riding a 125 MX bike. Having to keep a big V in its upper rev ranges to achieve comfort is not right and it ruins the overall drivability. At 4k rpm, the world is sweet. 4K rpm on a little one lane back road is a hot and nervous experience. GOing to 2700 rpm is reasonable BUT its like holding on to an old cheap busted up lawnmower. Any idea's????? PS I have a comfort kit on order. What an ironic name! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Seems like one good thing to do would be to ride another Uly and compare the vibrations. That might be a good thing to do at the dealer- if you can obviously see a huge difference maybe their mechanic will too. My guess would be something ignition or fuel injection related. Someone recently posted about fixing a rough-running issue on their Uly by unplugging and replugging the ECM connector; that would be worth a try. Otherwise, maybe ignition wires or coil breaking down under heat? | ||
| Conchop |
I have yet to ride another 08 - Mine runs great, wheelies whether I want to or not. Great power. Just buzzy. 06 and 07 rides seem smoother, but I have yet to spend a lot of time on one. I don't want to seem to be the loose nut behind the handlebar, but having been a dealer, I know my way around a bike. I really think its a lean issue. Do you know of any gel filled isolators???? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I was mainly thinking you could generate some more interest from your dealer if their mechanic rides your bike back-to-back with another one. Never seen any aftermarket isolators, at least not for XB's. What about an intake seal leak? Pretty easy to check. That might explain a lean condition at part-throttle. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Ride it up to the WV Buell Rally next weekend. There will be plenty of Uly riders to compare notes with.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 432249.html | ||
| Conchop |
If it were running rough, I'd be all over an air leak. There's really good torque there - 27 [krpm]. Just like holding on to that busted up lawnmower. In a 150 mile ride in the outback, you're hardly out of 3rd gear. Lots of twisties and whoops, very little straight but occasionally hit 4th for 75 mph. Then slow down - gear down for the next 25mph curve that means 40+mph on the Uly. Then the vibes hit. After a while, the buzz gets to me. Forget having a pleasant little spin on a green lane [ one lane blacktop 25 mph which = 40 to 45 on a Uly!] There are too many places where one has to slow down. The buzz absolutely kills the moment. Primary harmonics are generally easy to trace. From what I'm hearing, most Uly's are real slick and smooth. At 4k rpm, that is true with mine. Outback riding is rough and downright unhappy at 4krpm at all times | ||
| Tootal |
Check your tps reading if you have ecmspy. It should be around 5.1 if your manifold is not leaking. If it's in the 3's you probably have a leak. The fact it idles fine tells me your manifold is good. | ||
| Newbie1 |
Checke front isolator behind steering neck..if torn will give those kind of vibes.. more info on the site here | ||
| Conchop |
I hope to make the wv rally. I live about 80 miles away. The front isolator is not that old. This vibe has been going on from the "git-go". I've been working on it today - 10 k service. I painted the muffler and reassembled everything. Here is something weird. The muffler actuator [ replaced once already ] seems to have jumped time. The valve would never completely close. When I take the cable off, it seems to be 90 degrees away from where it should be. Works fine without the cable. Cable and valve works fine until you hook it up. It all binds up when the cable is on. Warranty job again. I have the cable disconnected for now. Thanks for the input. Thanks for all your input | ||
| Etennuly |
Did it do it before you had the muffler off? You have done so much stuff to fix it, I would presume so. If not, did you use new clamps? These things can mess up when re-tightened. If the front clamp comes loose it can lead to vibrations like yours and broken exhaust studs also. Bring it on to WVBR III, we can all take a look. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
i may be wrong but if it all happens to the front end, maybe the steer bearing are loose. | ||
| Conchop |
There has been some new developments. I just installed the C-kit. The ECM front nut and bolt is a joke. My ECM now has one bolt and the front one is shimmed and jammed with duct tape [ the handy mans friend ]. Nonetheless, it is a stunning improvement. While I was having this Zen time with my Uly, I did the 10K service. Fresh Amsoil and a close look at everything. I lubed the muffler actuator cable - painted the muffler too - and once I reassembled everything I tested it. SUre enough, the actuator is not functioning properly. The valve never closes. There is a battle between the spring in the actuator and the muffler. For some reason, the actuator seems to have "jumped time" as the pulley seems to be about 90 degrees counter clockwise too much. Without the cable on, it appears to work just fine. Put the cable on and it will actuate, but never return nearly enough to close the muffler valve. I left the cable off and went riding. The overall drivability and vibration levels are a lot better. The frequency of the vibe is the same but the amplitude is a lot better. The real question is - is it the muffler valve staying closed making the computer happy? Or is it the Comfort kit throwing more air on the rear jug. Or is it both. It is a bit more livable. I have an appointment next Thursday to do the C-kit download and have the actuator looked at. Maybe the neck bearings are loose. Good thought. Thanks again. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Conchop- glad you made some progress. There's nothing more frustrating than a problem like this you can't make ANY progress on. See Dr_greg's recent thread where his self-destructed; he took it apart and showed where one of the plastic gears had fragged. I'll bet you have something similar. |
