| Author | Message | ||
     Davolous |
OK I am a idiot. I was changing my trany oil from memory, in a hurry, while being distracted. Anyway loosed the wrong thing and have no clue what I set(see picture). Well I loosened the nut on the threaded rod going into the engine, and I am not sure if I changed it's position. I retighten the nut, but I am not sure what is does. If if anyone knows what it is and does please let me know. I am wondering if having it set wrong could cause a problem.  Thanks in advance for you help comments and input. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
That is your primary chain tensioner. Yes it could cause a small problem. Don't freak out though. You have a manual...right? | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Did you move the threaded shaft in or out, or did you just loosen the nut? if the shaft didn't move you are good to go. If it did you need to make sure your primary chain in set correctly. | ||
| Davolous |
Ya I think I moved the rod. I have access to the electric version of the manual. I don't recall anything about it in the owners manual or electronic version. I ordered a service manual off Ebay earlier today but have no idea when it will come in. | ||
| Svh |
You need the service manual. Maybe check the BRAN for some one near you with one that could help. | ||
| Davolous |
Hmmm this is what happens when a computer guy goes in the garage. Had a trip planned for Saturday too. Well I already ordered the manual, so I guess my Uly will just have to sit until then. There is no one in the BRAN within a hour of my area. Will I need a bike jack to adjust it? (Message edited by Davolous on July 09, 2009) | ||
| Froggy |
Right above the shift linkage is that little black cover, take it off, and move the chain up and down to check the slack. I don't have the specs on me, but adjust to the cold specs using that nut at the bottom you hit before. Close her back up, and take it for a spin, get it nice and warm then repeat and adjust to the hot specs, which are more accurate.     | ||
| Metalstorm |
no, you don't need a jack or stand but it makes it a lot EASIER because you can have the bike in 5th gear and turn (by hand) the rear wheel to rotate the chain. The bike can sit on the kick stand but you'll have to push the bike to move the primary chain or bump the starter which is usually the most inaccurately bad way. You will have to remove the inspection cover, the little one with the two screws above the shifter. You have to feel the slack of the primary chain at different spots (thus the turning of the rear wheel) until you find the tightest spot then adjust it to manual specs. Please note there are two different ranges listed in the book. One for COLD and one for HOT. You might want to pick up a new primary inspection cover gasket while you're at it. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Oh, one more thing. You're not an idiot. You're just getting to know your bike in a very intimate way  It's a bonding moment  Prepare yourself to be amazed at how easy it is to maintain these bikes. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Damn that Froggy! Beats me every time  | ||
| Froggy |
Thats why they pay me the big bucks | ||
| Pso |
Also if you do a search of this site you find all sorts of ideas as to how to adjust and measure the slack. Some very good info over the years here on how to do it.Perhaps someone can remember some of those posts for Davolous. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You're not an idiot. It is an easy procedure. And, you can help serve as an example. If you are unfamiliar with the bike.... DON'T TOUCH A WRENCH UNTIL YOU HAVE THE BOOK. To clarify the procedure: The bottom of the stud (that the nut goes around) has a hex key cut into it. Fit a key to it, use a wrench to loosen the locknut. Adjustment is done with the hex wrench, the nut only locks it in place once you get proper tension. If my knee didn't still look like it has a golf ball implanted in it (got 2 screws out yesterday), I'd go to the garage to get the chain spec for you. As noted above, there are multiple threads on here that include the spec. I want to say it's 1/2" vertical play? But, you'll know if it's wrong the first time you ride. It'll whirrr if it's too tight, you can hear it slapping around if it's too loose, and either way you'll get difficult shifting and a near-invisible Neutral. | ||
| Ronmold |
Froggy, Is that shift linkage jam nut supposed to be down there? | ||
| Etennuly |
Froggy.....in the above pics your tool is rusty and your hole is dirty. Is that the way they taught you to do things up there?    | ||
| Froggy |
That tool was only a week old when it rusted, cheapo Stanley set from Wallyworld, I only bought it because I was 300 miles from home and was desperate. It still works fine despite the rust. And my shifter is all crazy, its I have to shift down to shift up, and I have to lift my foot off the peg to reach the lever. I don't care, its just one more reason to not steal my bike, assuming you can figure out how to start it | ||
| Jphish |
No big deal - simple fix. Cold free play is 3/8 - 1/2". Hot - 1/4 - 3/8". Turning adjuster clockwise increases tension (takes up the slack) 15 min job & you're good to go. I put a piece of wood under kick stand to level the bike - easier to see / measure slack. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
One thing not mentioned is exactly the force necessary to measure the slack. I've done my primary chain and have always wondered if I am applying too much force when pushing the chain up to measure the deflection. That is one heavy duty chain and it ain't no rubber band if you get my drift. Anybody got a knowledgeable answer to my question about force? No guessing please cause I've already done that. An answer from a mechanic would be appreciated. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Electraglider, You already answered your question. Its a chain between two shafts. You don't have enough strength in your finger to deflect the shafts. Press as hard as you want (as long as you are not using a 6 foot pry bar). You are only taking up the chain slack. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
That is what I always figured and that is what I will continue to assume. I use a flat blade screw driver to push up and down on the chain. I only asked the question because Harley belts call for 10 lbs of force to measure the drive belt deflection. | ||
| Glenn |
I also use a flat bladed screw driver to load the chain in about the middle of the "window". Also note that the deflection is the total up added to the down deflection | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Naturally. | ||
| Osup |
I checked my primary chain at 5k miles and did not see the need to make any adjustments. Is this common? At 7k now. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Depends how you treat your bike. It will need to be tightened when it needs it and not until then. | ||
| Husky |
Free play cold 3/8"-1/2" Operating temp 1/4"-3/8" Husky | ||
| Husky |
Oops, I forgot to list the torque on the lock nut- 20-25 ft-lbs and on the cover screws 84-108 in-lbs. Husky | ||
| Davo |
Davolous, I have never met a davo that couldn't fix a motorcycle. It is an very easy adjustment to make. The objective is to make sure there is still some play when the engine is hot. As the engines case and sprockets heat up and expand the chain has less slack. I always make a routine hot engine check after I make a cold adjustment. Froggy, I like to see a motorcycle with some road grime. It is the banner of "bad weather biker". Only the inside needs to be clean! | ||
| Davolous |
Thank you, everyone for all you help. I would have responded earlier but I have had a horrible day. My Goldwing caught on fire this morning: http://davolous.com/davolous/Goldwing/tabid/59/Def ault.aspx So everything pretty much sucks right now! I don't have a working bike, and as may may see on the story on my blog I lost a bike today that has been in the family for 22 years. So with the luck I am having I going to wait until at least sunday to attempt to reset my primary chain tension. (Special thanks to Froggy for taking the time to post images of the process and everyone who looked up and posted the settings for me.) Davo: I have no doubt I will be able to fix it, and once I receive the service manual I intend to become very familiar with everything else I don't already know. Now that I am down to one bike I do not want to ever be left standing around picking my butt with nothing to ride again. "I can't believe I am going to drive a car on a trip tomorrow!" | ||
| Davo |
Davolous, Sorry to hear about your day. My old motto is that any day that you are around to recall is not as bad as it could have been. Just pull the primary window cover make sure you have the prescribed cold chain play, tighten the lock nut and you should be good to go. The cover bolts just need to be screw driver tight. I usually go 84 inch lbs which is "wrist tight" on a screw driver handle. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Electraglider, I use the 10 pound gauge when I adjust my Harley drive belt. So I know what you mean. The question I always have is what is the best way to determine the tightest section of the belt (or chain) to measure the deflection. The fastest way that I have come up with has been to watch the belt (or chain) at the mid point. As I rotate the rear wheel when I see the mid point rise to its highest level I take that to be the tightest section. Does anyone have a better way? | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Davolous, I just saw your Goldwing story. You are a lucky pup to have the fire start in the driveway and not on the road. Your decision could have been do I bail now or try to stop and then bail. You must be living right. Take care, |
