| Author | Message | ||
     Mad_doctor |
A while ago, I changed the spark plugs, wires, adjusted the primary chain, changed all the fluids, and found the bike running amazingly smooth, but it didn't have the hair raising SNAP, it had before. I rode it to the homecoming, and to the Road America races. everything went great. this morning, I decided to check the exhaust valve actuator, (which I had expected from the start). and Low and behold, it's busticated. The cable works very free, but the motor (inside) sounds like it is trying to run very slowly. Now the check engine light comes on after the diagnostic check, but does not give an error code. Has anyone else had this happen? The bike has been running awesome, and had I not checked the cable, I probably would not have even known there was a problem. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Mine occasionally starts straining due to a sticking valve, I shoot some PB Blaster at the valve pivot on the muffler to loosen things up and it's fine for awhile. Some have reported the gears in the actuator can get jammed but can be reoriented with careful disassembly of the unit. | ||
| Tootal |
The gears inside are plastic and will fail eventually. The latest and greatest now has steel gears. I'm on my third one and it seems to be working well. If your under warranty get the new one. If you had one changed under warranty and it failed and now your out of warranty ask your dealer to replace it. If they want to charge you for the part call Buell customer service and explain to them nicely that the one replaced under warranty failed and you know the new one is improved and would like to have the warrantied part replaced with the improved model. They did it for me although I did have to pay for labor but they only charged me for a half hour. | ||
| Chas1969 |
My 2cents; ECM spy (06-07) the valve warning system off or valve elimanator box (08+) and run the valve open all the time. My 06 runs better without the valve exhaust thingy and untill this post I have forgotten all about it. Chas | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Mine crapped out early in 08 after I bought my 08 model. I was too busy to take it in for a warranty repair so I bought a new one and installed it. I suppose I will have to put the old broken one in and take it in before the warranty expires. Does anyone know a way around this? My bike runs great and I am afraid they will remap the fuel injection while the bike is there. | ||
| Mad_doctor |
I think most of the dealerships don't want anything to do with the remap. Most of the time, if you ask if there are any updates, the will tell you no,(without even looking). My 08XT has been amazing, right from the first ride. I don't want them to even THINK about updating anything. But,(and I'm not bragging), I think Greatlakes HD. has done an excellent job of being right upfront about everything they have done. | ||
| Someday |
I have an '08 Uly and the exhaust actuator motor # is S1138.1AA. It has plastic gears inside (I took it apart). Does anyone know what the updated part # is? Thanks. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
The part number on mine ends with AAA | ||
| Florida_lime |
Talk about timing ! I took the Uly out this afternoon for a spin. After an hour, while on the interstate doing 75 mph, my bike started running poorly and the check engine light started flashing. I was about 1 mile to an exit, so I was hoping I could make it of the highway. I eased up on the throttle, and the light stopped flashing, and it started running cleanly again. I started home, using back roads, and it seemed to be OK. I got back on the interstate again, but after a bit, the light started flashing again. Chopping the throttle, or just easing up on the gas seemed to temporarily cure the problem, as it happened a few times before I got off the highway near home. When I got home, I started going through a few things. Less than 1 month ago, I had the stator replaced under warranty, plus the rear rocker seal was replaced (for the 3rd time !) I found that my Iridium plugs had been replaced with the Harley plugs, and my Magnecor wires were now stock OEM items as well. I had noticed after I got the bike back that my oil had been topped off (I keep always it at the 2 or 3X level). I check the airbox to be sure that oil level wasn't causing an issue - there was some oil, but not too excessive. At that time I also found that my exhaust valve wasn't working at all. I knew it was getting a bit squeaky lately, but it wouldn't cycle at all now. After putting things back together, it did squeak once when I started it up, but not again on subsequent starts. Could the exhaust valve be responsible for today's problems ? If it isn't working right, shouldn't the check engine light stay lit ? I'm going to check, but I think my warranty ran out 1 week ago.  I do have just over 32,000 miles on the bike (an '07). Also, would you complain about the plugs and wires being replaced without my knowledge ? I was not billed for any parts when the bike was repaired under warranty. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Took the Uly again out for about 45 minutes, but I could not replicate the problem. Temperatures are now in the mid 80's, but were in the low to mid nineties earlier when I had the problem. If the exhaust actuator was closed, could there be enough heat build-up that it was trying to go into "limp mode" ? When the stator went, it scrapped my Memorial Day weekend trip to NC. I plan on going to NC on the 4th of July weekend, and if high temperatures are an initializing the problem, I-75 in Florida and Georgia will not be do-able. | ||
| Xbimmer |
'Lime, today I fixed what for a week has been pestering me regarding my engine light. From everything I could tell the flashing light at speed means "hot engine" and then skip-spark mode results. Only did it at freeway speeds but consistently after a couple of miles riding. Put the Halt to my planned Father's Day trip to the Rock Store for breakfast with my kids... Unless I'm misunderstanding the process our bikes are supposed to display a "stored code" sequence at startup, but mine wasn't. I built a jumper and pulled two codes from the ECM, a 13 (O2 sensor) and a 21 (exhaust valve actuator). The valve was a bit sticky but a shot of PB Blaster squared it away, anyway according to the manual a horn circuit fault can trigger the code and I did have a problem with that a couple weeks ago. The 13 code was my main concern, since the last few days the engine has smelled like it was running lean I was first suspecting intake seals. Did a lot of searching here and decided to just go with a new sensor first since my bike has over 57K and it seems we're supposed to replace them well before that... ooops. Picked up a Bosch 12014 sensor from Auto Zone for $20 based on info gathered here and dived into areas unknown. Job took less than three hours including checkin-things-out time and harness servicing. Ran the heck out of it for about 20 miles up and down the freeway and no light and it runs great again! I'm figuring the sensor was going senile since my gas mileage has been swinging wildly the last month or so, and it was leaning out the engine the last couple of days to a point of hot running and skip-spark mode. I still intend to do the intake seals but plan to replace the sensor in the future at 30K intervals. Cheap insurance IMO. I'm afraid someone now owns your Magnecors, or ignorantly tossed them. I'd be all over those guys, here in CA they can't replace anything without the owner's consent. (Message edited by xbimmer on June 22, 2009) | ||
| Florida_lime |
Xbimmer, Thanks for the info - your running problems on the highway sound EXACTLY like mine. I know my O2 sensor was replaced after the 2nd rocker seal was replaced, as it was apparently damaged during the engine rotation. It was giving a 13 code at that time, but my check engine light was on then. I thought that the light had to be on to pull the code, but I'll try the jumper to see what I get. Everyone always complains about the heat on the Uly, but it seemed mine was running even hotter lately - something I was atributing to the near 100 degree temperatures. Maybe the intake seals are the culprit. Thanks ! No surprise, I do get the 21 code when doing the jumper check, but that is the only code it shows. (Message edited by Florida_lime on June 22, 2009) | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Florida_lime, just in case you haven't yet checked. Remove the airbox cover and cycle the key. That is the static test for the exhaust valve, if it doesnt work sitting still I am fairly sure it wont work at speed. You should see it move back and forth when you cycle the key, you can ride with the cover off and check the action but be sure and keep your eyes on the prize (road). Dont ask me why I give such obvious advice..  | ||
| Someday |
Rwcfrank, What year is your Uly? From what I understand the exhaust actuators are different between early and late model Ulys. Do you have the entire part # available? Again, mine is an '08 and has the cable bracket as part of the actuator housing. Thanks! | ||
| Florida_lime |
Rwcfrank, I did that check yesterday; I get NO cycling at all. From what I have read, that means the valve is closed all the time, which can cause higher temps while riding => skip spark mode. I called my closest dealer (1 1/2 hours away), and they said they would check on the part availability for the updated actuator. It does seem to be clear at the muffler, nothing appears jammed, so maybe it's some other part in the system. ?? I have been reading up on wiring the cable open: I may try that if it means not scrapping my 4th of July plans. | ||
| Someday |
Rwcf, My bad! The # does end in AAA and I see your's is an '08. | ||
| Xbimmer |
I have been reading up on wiring the cable open: I may try that if it means not scrapping my 4th of July plans. Easy enough to do, just free the end from the actuator pulley, pull it out as far as it will go, and crimp on a couple lead fishing weights to keep it from returning. At least that can tell you whether the stuck valve is causing your skip-spark problem. If not, well you've eliminated that theory at least. | ||
| Florida_lime |
I just got back from a test ride after doing pretty much that. I used a small plastic wire guide - I ran the cable through the guide, then attached it at the Torx screw to the right of the actuator. Perfect location with the cable fully out. I didn't put the airbox cover back on for the ride - (quite a bit of intake honk !), and the bike seems to have more snap under acceleration, but maybe flatter at other times. Overall, about the same. Getting ready to try a longer ride with the airbox cover in place, now that it is warming up again. | ||
| Snojet |
On my 06 Uly, I remember having to turn the key on and twisting the throttle all the way, that's when the actuator will cycle through. If I wasn't at work right now I would look up the procedure in my service manual. Also, when you pulled the cable out, did it feel smooth and did you hear the valve in the can move to the stops (open/close)? | ||
| Ourdee |
Florida_lime, Learn your flat spot, It was real noticeable on my bike. | ||
| Florida_lime |
I just got home from a 90 mile run in mid-90 degree heat. The bike seemed to be running a tiny bit cooler than it had been, but on the way home it went into spark skip mode again. Again I ran some back roads at lower speeds, but getting back on the interstate sent it into spark skip. This time, however, it wouldn't run cleanly at times even if the engine light wasn't flashing. It did run better once I got back off the highway close to home. Conclusion: the actuator is bad, but that is NOT the cause of the overheating. I see a 3rd vacation now being screwed up by my bike. Now that my warranty has JUST expired, my patience may have worn thin. | ||
| Lovehamr |
I'm so glad I put the race kit on mine!  Steve | ||
| Werewulf |
herr lime, i feel your pain... i just came back from gatlinburg yesterday... because of the heat thing, i took the beemer... it was 97 degrees in south georgia... i made the mistake of doing the loop in cades cove.. ive never seen so many people there.. you would move 50 feet and stop..the beemers didnt overheat, but they got hot enough to hear the valves clatter at idle.. if i had been on the uly, i would have had road rage from leg roast.. the fan in my uly runs continually after the first 10 miles of highway riding, so i dont trust it in heavy traffic.. my 08 is on its second valve.. just twist the throttle wide open and turn the key on.. if it doesnt cycle, its the valve.. good luck on a long hot ride through florida and georgia... | ||
| Florida_lime |
I'm pretty sure the actuator valve is shot, but there apparently are other reason(s) for the skip spark mode running. I ran through Georgia last year where I saw a time/temp sign show 103 degrees, and I didn't have any running problems then. | ||
| Froggy |
Skip spark happens when the bike is overheating, or thinks its overheating. Either you got a bad fan, bad temp sensor, or you were in death valley on a summer day towing a boat uphill getting no traction. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Skip spark happens when the bike is overheating, or thinks its overheating. Froggy - thanks for stating the obvious !  The fan (3rd one !) is good, don't know about the temp sensor, and it's only 95* with a heat index of 112 degrees. No boat, either.  | ||
| Someday |
My actuator went bad at around 1000 miles. Took it apart and it's obvious that the plastic gears are not up to the task. On the gear that drives the cable cam there is a torsion spring that's very stiff. On mine it actually distorted the gear so it bound up and wouldn't cycle. The dealer said they had the updated version so I went a picked one up. The new version is assembled so you can't take it apart. I hope the internals last more than 1000 miles. The original units part # was S0138.2AAA, and the new unit is # S1138.1AA. The new unit is on the left and the old is on the right.  | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Crap, I have it backwards. I had better a get a new one as a spare before my warranty expires. | ||
| Florida_lime |
How much $ was the new part ? | ||
| Od_cleaver |
$131.20 at Chicago Harley |
