| Author | Message | ||
     Old_wrench |
This is my first post in this forum. My neighbor saw me working on my '09 HD Dyna Super Glide wants me to change his oil and spark plugs in his '06 XB12X. My Super Glide has three holes for oil (engine, primary and tranny). Even though HD says I can use 20w50 in all three holes, I run 20w50 in the engine and primary and 75/140 in my tranny. Since I can't get the manual from the Buell site (no vin) I don't know what he needs or where to put it. The way the drain plugs are arranged on my bike, it's possible to drain the tranny when you think you are draining the engine if you don't know what you are doing. Can you guys offer some help? I'll be looking at his bike Thursday night. I searched around the internet and there are some pretty sharp guys on this site. I graduated as a certified mechanic from the American Motorcycle Institute in Daytona Beach in 1976 so I have some mechanical skills. | ||
| F_skinner |
The way the drain plugs are arranged on my bike, it's possible to drain the tranny when you think you are draining the engine if you don't know what you are doing. You will not have that problem with the Buell. The oil is in the swingarm and there is a drain plug on the bottom. Look under the tranny for the drain plug for the transmission. Pretty much standard sporty stuff. You will have to take off the lower chin fairing to get the the oil filter. As you sit on the bike it is on the right side near the oil pump. Have your friend log onto the Buell site and download the manual. Also suggest he gets a service manual. Frank | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Engine oil drains from the swing arm on the left side just below the dip stick. 2.5 QTS with filter, 20W50. Don't over fill. Check when hot. Primary and trans use the same oil directly below the primary like you would expect. 1 QT, I use HD Formula +. Fill thru the clutch cover. It is recommended to use a new gasket. | ||
| Froggy |
Also you will need a Torx 27 screwdriver or something to undo the chin fairing. If you don't have one, there is a basic L shaped Torx 27 key in the underseat tool kit that can get the job done for you. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Do not overtorque the drain plug. Very easy to strip. Torque values in the manual are incorrect. I use blue loctite and my finely calibrated innate sense of torque. | ||
| Etennuly |
It is easier than all of that. There are only two holes. The oil drain plug is in the left forward bottom of the swing arm. I put a piece of plastic over the tail pipe to keep oil from running all over it. The trans is the same kind of bottom plug. They both utilize a rubber o ring that can be reused if not torn or worn. They are both magnetic also. The first change should show some gray pasty matter from the engine plug and maybe a little shrapnel on the trans plug. Unless there is a problem of some magnitude they will be cleaner on subsequent changes. Do NOT use factory torque specs on the swing arm plug. Just snug it up to tight enough, the O ring will be locking in also. The theory around the block, is to run HD Formula +. I don't believe better stuff has been found for the type of clutch and trans that we have. Motor oil is all over the charts, I use Mobil 1 V twin 20 50. Do what pleases the owner. The oil level is not directly regulated by reading the stick. Use this method; put in precisely 2.5 quarts. When done ride the bike for ten to fifteen miles. Park on level, bike on side stand, check oil level on stick. It should be at the bottom two x's on the stick. Do not add more oil, this is the correct level, adding more will just pump it into the air box through the breather hoses. He should maintain the level at those two x's. The trans is pull the clutch side cover, install one quart of the Formula +. A tiny bit of RTV on the gasket and lightly tighten the torx screws, it is better to lock tight them than to over tighten, they can and will strip out. Plugs look intimidating at first because they are not in the open. The front one requires removing the left scoop and using a box wrench. The rear needs to have the air box cover off and I use a foot long snap-on wiggle flopper extension with a real spark plug socket. A piece of rubber hose is best for reinstalling that plug, thread it all the way in by hand to make certain that it is not cross threaded and use anti-sieze on the threads. I use a foot long pair of needle nose pliers for the rear plug wire removal and install. You can wrap them with masking tape to soften the grip. The stock plugs easily last 10,000 miles, if he cold starts it often I would put in the split tip race plugs to help prevent fouling on cold starts when it doesn't get it up to full operating temps. Have fun and make him let you ride it! | ||
| Old_wrench |
This is great stuff. I know I found the right place! It's exactly what I was looking for. I get the oil changing procedure. My Super Glide had the oil filter on the front of the engine and it will get all over the crank case if I don't put something there to redirect it. I changed my oil at 500 mile and torqued the drain plug to specs. When I did my 1K change, I noticed that I crushed the o-ring the last time. Factory torque spec's were definitely off. I found it interesting that you mentioned the spark plugs. He says he replace them every spring because they are fouled. He said something about a glow plug to preheat the cylinder (?). He only has about 3,500 mile on it. What are your thoughts? I agree that they should last 10K miles or so. | ||
| Hmartin |
The oil's a cinch. That rear spark plug will be the biggest challenge. It'll take removing the seat, airbox, and side scoop, a 5/8" socket with a UV joint and a 12" extension, and a length of 3/8" fuel hose to get the plug changed and a couple of @#!$%'s to get the plug wire back on. | ||
| Hmartin |
Looks like I was a little late on that last post. I'm not a spammer, I swear.  Glow plugs?!? No. If he's revving it cold, then the plugs may in fact be fouled. Buell XB's typically want to be left alone to warm up a minute or two first. Otherwise, 10k miles should be fine. 10k on my plugs didn't look that bad. Didn't look that great, either, but I wouldn't subscribe to anything less than 10k miles between changes. | ||
| Old_wrench |
You suggest that I put the plug into a hose and then start threading it into the engine? So there is no way I can get my hand on the rear plug? Who did they think was going to work on these bikes, midgets? | ||
| Old_wrench |
How does the Buell service manual suggest getting it out? I'd bet they have an SST (Special Service Tool) for it. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I cut a milk jug into a scoop. I place it under the oil filter to catch the drips when I remove it. | ||
| Old_wrench |
Good idea for the filter. They seem to be a problem on any HD bike. | ||
| Ronmold |
I put in the Iridium plugs, are they better or did I just have the privilege of paying double for plugs? | ||
| Hmartin |
Believe it or not, it's the service manual that tells you to use the fuel hose to thread the spark plug into the port so you'll be less likely to cross thread it. By removing the air scoop you should be able to reach your fingers in there to get it started, but not enough room to tighten it. That rear cylinder is right up against the frame rail. Good luck. | ||
| Hooper |
I think Old_Wrench might be in the market for a Buell soon... | ||
| Old_wrench |
That's amazing. Don't you wonder sometimes if the frame designers talk to the engine designers and then wonder if anyone talks to the electrical guys??? | ||
| Hmartin |
Shoot. If it was an 1125R, the engine would have to be rotated forward in order to get to the plugs. Unfortunately, car companies do this crap, too. Chevy did the exact same thing several years ago when the minivan market was s*** hot. You had to unbolt the rear engine mount and rock the engine forward in order to get to the rear plugs. Chevy gave the plugs a 100k change interval so customers who traded their vans in regularly would never have to worry about it. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Changing the rear plug on the Uly is easy compared to getting the plugs from my F150's 5.4 V8. The plugs should easily make 10k, unless they've been fouled. If you can find a mechanically adept 10 year old in the neighborhood, their hand will probably fit through the 'access' space. Mark in Arizona | ||
| Glen |
dont forget the most important part............dont forget to invite him to hang out and share his beer with you so he can watch how its done.  Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for life. | ||
| Old_wrench |
He seems to be a nice guy, pretty smart. I just think that he'd rather have someone else do the work and it will be nice to get to know a Buell and a Buell rider. So let me get this straight. The tools I need are: - 3/8" fuel hose - I'll get about 1' neoprene? - long needle nose pliers (I have one's with jaws about 4" long - Long enough?) - 5/8" socket - 1' extension (how about an 8" and a 4") - universal knuckle joint (got one) - a modified milk jug (got one) - a couple of torx to remove scoops and fairings (got 'um) - sockets or hex bits for drain plugs (got 'um). Have I forgotten anything? | ||
| Ulynut |
Maybe pliers to get the oil filter off and you should be all set. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
That a Torx #27. If the clutch doesn't need adjusting, I've been filling the primary thru the primary inspection cover. Saves a gasket. Also I brought a sparkplug boot puller vs long needle nose pliers. Needle nose pliers can puncture a hole in the boot installation. | ||
| Hmartin |
The 8" extension alone would probably get it. I use longer extensions so I can see what I'm doing. Which reminds me, a shop light or flash light would be good if you're gonna be in the garage. Also, don't forget you'll need your 5/8" hex for the front plug. If you hit a snag, I see there's a couple of guys from Buffalo who put their phone numbers on the Buell Rider Assistance Network (BRAN) who might could swing by if you called them. | ||
| Old_wrench |
Where is the spark plug? I pulled the seat off and all I see is a 1.5" x 2" slot. I tried to up load a pic (107KB) but it wouldn't let me. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Old_wrench- You have to take out four torx screws and remove the "gas tank" (air box cover), unsnap the inner airbox, remove the airfilter, disconnect the cable from the active exhaust servomotor, then remove 4 torx screws and pull up the air cleaner base plate. Oh yea, the hoses from the crankcase breathers are there too and you have to pull it off the rubber venturi stack above the throttle body. (I may have missed a detail or two- honestly, it's not as involved as it sounds.) THAT will give you access (such as it is) to the rear spark plug. (Message edited by Hughlysses on May 28, 2009) | ||
| Old_wrench |
I don't want to sound like a knucklehead but will that also give me access to the front plug? I knelt in front of the bike and couldn't see it. | ||
| Old_wrench |
p.s. I took the "gas tank" off and saw a cable and a few hoses. | ||
| Hmartin |
By removing the air scoop you should be able to access the front plug with a hex wrench. | ||
| Froggy |
The cable and hoses are the exhaust valve actuator, and the hose is the fuel vent line. You can work around them just fine, the cover they are on is the upper airbox lid, it has 4(?) tabs on the sides to separate it from the air filter and lower airbox. Lower airbox has 4 torx screws that need to be removed , then the lower airbox can be pulled off, it will be a little stubborn getting it on and off with the throttle body snorkel. Also as you are taking the lower airbox off, note the heights of the breather hoses sticking in, and as you are pulling the lower airbox off you will need to disconnect the sensor thats in the middle of the plate. |
