| Author | Message | ||
     Cpilot |
Tonight I jumped on the Uly to enjoy a quick ride around a couple of blocks when I heard this grinding... metal on metal sound when I came to my first stop sign. I headed back home and on inspection I found that one of the rear brake pads was completely gone. I had put a new rear tire and pads on about 1,500 miles ago. I had a 360 mile ride Sunday afternoon and it must of happened then. With my ear plugs in I didn't hear it. Looks like the rotor is toast. Questions to this esteemed forum, "Would you go back with a stock rotor or one of the scalloped type like Al sells?" Anyone else have this kind of issue? | ||
| Debueller |
Where did the pad go? Who does your work? If either of the pads are "completely gone", I would not allow that person to ever work on anything of mine again. Or do you mean that one of the brake pads were completely "worn out", or "used up". (Message edited by debueller on April 29, 2009) | ||
| Stevem123 |
I tried the Lyndells brake pads on the rear just before a long 3K trip and by the time I got back I noticed the same metal to metal problem. The rear rotor was scored but not warped so I went back with the stock rear brake pads and didn't change the rotor. It does have a few groves in it but it works fine with the stock pads. Give that a try unless it's really badly torn up. Mine actually seems to work better now that the pads have worn in and has a smooth linear feel with good braking power as opposed to the hard pedal and no stoppie feel when it was new. I still use the lyndalls on the front and have been verry happy with them on there. BC Steve | ||
| Cpilot |
I am the guy who replaced the pads when I changed the rear tire. I won't know until I get it torn apart (next week) what really happened, but it looks like the outboard pad was complete gone or worn down and only the steel plate was left... thus metal-on-metal. I don't know if the bonding let go, or if the caliber was binding so it wouldn't allow the pads to release. The inboard pad looks to be in great shape. Unfortunately the rotor was badly scored. I had used the stock pads. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Be sure to thoroughly clean the brake dust off the pistons before you push them back into the caliper during a pad replacement. Car calipers have rubber boots around the pistons that keep the dust out. M/C calipers don't have the boots and the dust will get pushed into and past the seals where it will cause the pistons to bind, causing the brakes to drag or worse come on by themselves (DAMHIK). An old T-shirt makes a very good rag for the job. | ||
| Cpilot |
Thanks... great advice... that must be what happened. I will make sure it is very clean before re-assembly. | ||
| Xbimmer |
On my fourth set of rears at 56K, I use the EBC Blacks from American Sport Bike which work OK for me. When I replace the pads besides cleaning up the piston like Hughlysses stated I always pull the guide bolts (not the mounting bolts) and make sure they're cleaned and regreased, along with their bores. Make sure the guide pin is cleaned and greased too. A caliper that's free to move about properly will feel loose on the rotor when you whack it with the palm of your hand, even when it's hot from riding. | ||
| Cpilot |
Update: I removed the rear wheel and replaced the rotor and disassembled the caliper. The outboard pad was completely gone, metal-on-metal, while the inboard pad looked new. All clips and pads had been installed correctly. The only thing I could find was the forward guide bolt was pretty sticky. I am not sure if this was the result of heat with the metal-to-metal or not. I remove and cleaned the guide bolts. The caliper now has a slight side movement to it when I pull and push on it. I have since heard of another Buller who had the same thing happen at 7,000 miles. Outboard pad, gone, inboard pad like new. I think it must be the guide bolts not allowing the caliper to self-center when the brake is applied. I hope this does the trick. I know I will be more diligent in inspecting my rear brake between rides. |
