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Armymedic
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Purely speculative here. Looking at checking my static timing. If in the off chance I need to adjust my timing, I would need to drill off the cover plate rivets. How do you put it back on. I have no rivet gun. Are there screws that would work? Any advice would be great.

Also, anybody know what's up with Spec Ops? No communication in forever and many people wondering the same and where their products are.
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Glenn
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

from thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/211240.html?1153091226

The Engine thread was closed to new threads in KV so here it is. This is the
procedure that I used on my xb12x (Uly). I hope it is complete. If there are any
gross errors I know someone will chime in and correct me.

1. Drill out the two rivets on the timing cone cover. Be very careful not to
scratch up the cover. A new/sharp 1/8” or 3/16” drill bit works well. After
going through the rivet just walk the bit around the perimeter of the hole until
the rivet head falls off. Do not extend the bit into the case more than about
3/8”- ½”.

2. Remove the outer timing cover.

3. Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the inner cover.

4. Remove the inner cover.

5. Very carefully index the CPS (cam position sensor) base plate with the inside
of the timing cone so that you know where the timing was before you changed it.
You can always go back to the factory setting. I used a very small dental style
pick to scratch a mark on the outer perimeter of the CPS base and the same point
on the inner cone of the cover. The index marks should be very fine because each
millimeter is equivalent to 3 degrees of spark timing. My marks are so fine that
I need to use a magnifying glass to make sure the index marks are correct.

6. Loosen the two CPS base plate fasteners just enough to free the CPS enough to
rotate. You need a large flat head screw driver. I use a hollow ground screw
driver that fits the slot exactly so the fasteners do not get marred up.

7. Rotate the CPS plate 1mm counter-clockwise to retard the timing 3 degrees. If
you have a wire type spark plug gapping gauge the .040 gauge is exactly 3
degrees.

Note- The inner cover diameter is 78 mm therefore the circumference is 245.0442
mm (diameter X pi (3.1416)). There is 720 crank degrees (two full turns 2 X 360)
for every full rotation of the cam so divide 245.0442 by 720 and you get 0.3403
mm for each degree of the crank. So then 3 degrees is equal to 1.0210 mm.

8. Make sure there is no rivet debris in the cone area.

9. Tighten the flat head fastening screws (do not over tighten them just snug
them down) and verify that the CPS has moved about 1 mm counter clockwise by
looking at the space that now exists between the two index marks.

10. I recommend that you reinstall the inner cover plate with the Phillips
screws, being careful not to over tighten them, and leave the outer cover off
until you know the new setting is satisfactory. If you are concerned about dust
and water then put a little electrical tape over the rivet holes.

10. After several test rides, re-install the outer cover with new HD rivets (you
will need a rivet pop rivet gun and be VERY careful because when it pops you
WILL scratch the cover if you do not put a cloth around the nose or the rivet
gun) or you can remove the inner cover and tap the two rivet holes with a 10-32
tap and purchase two stainless steel hex head 10-32 bolts about 3/8” long. The
tap and the bolts are cheaper than a bag of ten HD rivets. There are two holes
that you do not use so practice with the tap with them. Do not try to tap the
holes with the inner cover in place. If you go this route then you can make
timing adjustments on the road if you find a tank of bad gas or you can wind up
your timing at the track when “go fast” fuel is available. Always give your AFV
about 15 minutes of easy run time to readjust after you readjust.

I would recommend checking your static timing just for kicks before the
procedure. Just follow the manual and substitute the fuel pump turning on for
the scanyliser going to 5 volts. Get some assistance with this it is very easy
to scratch up your air box with your belt or even drop the bike if you attempt
it alone. I use fifth gear and slowly push the bike. Be careful not to let
debris get into the timing window and once again do not over tighten the timing
plug. Its torque specification is 120 in-lbs which is only 10 ft-lbs. If you
tighten the plug any more than that it will strip the case! Always use anti
seize when steel threads into aluminum. Just a little film is necessary on the
threads. Always start the threads and turn the plug in by hand. I use a 3/8”
drive 3/8” allen head socket. I use ¼ adapters down to ¼ then to a 6” ¼” drive
extension and then back up to a 3/8” drive into my wrench. This combination
prevents the header and the case from getting scratched by a fatter 3/8” drive
extension. The ¼”drive up to 3/8”drive adapter is rare in most tool boxes but
Craftsman has a small package of assorted adapters that contains this valuable
tool.

Note: The factory uses a "Digital Technician" (not a scanyliser sorry) which the
public does not have access to. It is simply monitoring the CPS voltage. If you
read the manual on page 1-45 they walk you through the factory procedure. I
listen for the fuel pump to turn on because it turns on at the exact moment that
the CPS voltage goes to 5 volts. I have tested it with a DVOM (digital volt ohm
meter) at the connector pin on the ECM. It is on the right on the money!

*****

One thing to keep in mind when adjusting the cam position sensor (static timing
plate) is that you're affecting the entire fuel curve too. When you retard the
timing, you're removing fuel. For my ping problem, this was compounding the
issue. I eventually had it reset to factory spec by a very competent tech and
left it there.
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Armymedic
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Excellent! Yeah, just for kicks I'll check the timing with ECMSpy before moving on. Hopefully no adjustments necessary but if so, I've got the skinny on what to do.
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Id073897
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 01:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How do you put it back on.

http://media.conrad.de/m/5000_5999/5200/5230/5239/ 523935_BB_00_FB.EPS.jpg
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Armymedic
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Where do you find that and does it have a name? Nice pic though.
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Id073897
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's an expanding rivet - Suzuki e.g. uses them for some tail fairings.
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4cammer
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Get the rivet eliminator kit from American Sportbike. Same kit also gets rid of the rivets in the lower plastics.
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Cityxslicker
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Or you could put a H-D FL turn signal biscuit over it, available in clear, smoked, red, or of course, Orange
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Armymedic
Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

HaHa sweet!
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