| Author | Message | ||
     Thrux181 |
Looking for feedback from people who have ACTUALLY lowered the Uly using a STT rear shock and moving the front forks up thru the clamps. What problems did you have? Where you satisfied when done? What did you do with the stopper ring? Etc? I figure, if I do it, I will put tall enough risers on to clear the bars. If the cables are not long enough, I might go with STT bars. Also I have done searches and found some info. I have an 08. Thanks, Bill | ||
| Longdog_cymru |
I haven't lowered my Uly, but I did see this as a possible aid to lowering while retaining the Uly shock.......... http://www.solobuell.com/inter/index.php/Buell-Uly sses/Suspension.html | ||
| Thrux181 |
Thanks Longdog, that looks interesting. It would still keep it simple and I would just have to deal with the front like I planned. | ||
| Ourdee |
Couldn't you just use a lighter spring? Even in the forks? I don't know, just putting the Q. out there. | ||
| Werewulf |
what kind of tool is required to change the rear spring??? it would be a simple matter to buy an xt spring.. | ||
| Johnnyrocket246 |
i lowered my x by raising the forks, using double stacked bar clamps, removed the circle clips, installed a 9 shock, cut down at kickstand, shock does bottom out with 2 riders, that lowering kit looks like a better answer. not sure how it works. | ||
| Thrux181 |
Ourdee, I don't want to change or replace alot of things. Im trying to keep things functioning close to the way they are. The info I got, was that the STT shock is valved closer to the Uly. The concern I have with the Mizu lowering is what kind of effect it will have on the rebound. | ||
| Thrux181 |
Johnnyrocket246, where your cables long enough? Werewulf, I guess the XT spring would do the same as the Mizu lowering. I just don't know how it would effect the rebound. Thanks | ||
| Longdog_cymru |
Thrux181 The lowering kit is simply a "top hat" shaped spring seat. It slots around the damper rod shaft and allows the spring to sit lower on the shock. This way, you can use a standard Uly shock and spring. I believe standard the damper settings still apply. | ||
| Thrux181 |
I guess my question about rebound is, with the shock at full extension would there be sufficient spring tension on the top and bottom spring retainers. | ||
| Werewulf |
how much does a new xt shock sell for?.. | ||
| Thrux181 |
I don't know. STT is around $270.00. Don't know if you can get just springs. | ||
| Werewulf |
my xb lightning parts book, shows just the springs for sale... i would think that you should be able to buy the xt spring, maybe someone has a uly parts book.. it might be a cheep way to lower a uly. | ||
| Froggy |
K0410.02A8 SHOCK, REAR (XB Standard) Retail Price:$267.00 K0410.1AE SHOCK, RR, XB9SL Retail Price:$267.00 K0410.1AK SHOCK, REAR (XB12X) Retail Price:$434.00 K0410.1AMB REAR SHOCK (1125R) Retail Price:$298.00 K0410.1AN (XB12SS) SHOCK, REAR Retail Price:$335.00 K0410.1AS (XB12STT) SHOCK, REAR Retail Price:$267.00 K0410.1AV (XB12XT) REAR SHOCK Retail Price:$315.00 I believe that these are the whole shebang, not just the spring. | ||
| Marinus |
Just put an STT shock on my '08. Fits perfectly. Free of the bike, the STT shock is roughly .7" shorter eye-to-eye as compared to the Uly shock. At a "handy place to measure" on the tail section, it looks like a 1.25" drop in back. Riding with the stock forks, the STT shock feels fine. It has an old-school twist collar for spring preload, but I found position #5 of 7 to be good. The "turns in/out" to set damping are different from the Uly shock, so review the STT manual. Added PrecisionMachine 1" handlebar risers. Cables and wires fit fine keeping the stock bars. With the new space above the top clamp, I've just dropped the forks .875" in the triple clamps. I discarded the snap rings. I'm happy with the changes in a static sense -- haven't ridden with that setup yet, so I'll hold opinions on the fork drop 'til later. (Message edited by marinus on March 28, 2009) | ||
| Werewulf |
i wonder why the standard x shock is more expensive than the xt? | ||
| Thrux181 |
Thanks Marinus. I was planning on taking measurements from the front and rear of the muffler before and after. Then use those numbers to adjust the front to keep the attitude of the bike close to stock. Let me know how your ride goes. | ||
| Thrux181 |
I don't know Werewuf. You and Longdog have given me something to thing about. I wish someone could answer my question about the rebound. I would not want some thing to come off while bouncing around on a forest road. (Message edited by thrux181 on March 28, 2009) (Message edited by thrux181 on March 28, 2009) | ||
| Growl |
Hello: The Mizu lowering kit is a step in the right direction. It would make the bike bottom much easier, however. If, in addition, you replaced the spring with one having a similar initial rate but a heavier final rate it could work nicely... The sag level would be lower so you could reach the ground. The ride might not be as plush but when things get rough you would still have 6"+ travel. In other words: The lowering kit with a different spring would be better than a shorter shock | ||
| Johnnyrocket246 |
all cables are long enough at the handle bars, the brake line gets pushed out of the rubber holder down by the forks, you have to slide it up. | ||
| Marinus |
Hey Thrux: finished the fork lowering (which somehow turned into a tire grooving project) and ran through my favorite curvies this morning. Nothing abnormal to report -- handles roughness & bumps as before, nimble as before, pretty much what you'd expect for the small change in height. My sense after one ride is that the .875" drop in front is slightly too much to go with the STT shock, but I'm gonna put some more miles on it before I change anything else. The handlebar risers have altered the view/attitude while riding and I need to let that settle out. I'm interested to see your muffler measurement numbers. The tire grooving (and the lowering) were done with an eye toward more fireroad use. Things felt looser than I liked on gravel before. That report, too, will come. | ||
| Werewulf |
i wish someone would just put an XT spring on the stock shock and report on it.. i got two compound fractures in my hand a few years ago, screwing around with a spring and im not doing it again... | ||
| Longdog_cymru |
There is another way.......... Wilbers list 2 spring kits for the Uly. One is standard length, either linear or progressively wound springs, and the other is 50mm shorter and they come with brackets/caps for the damper units to compensate for the reduced stroke. Wilbers will build a rear shock to match whichever option you choose. Here is my correspondence with the UK agents: I own a Buell Ulysses XB12X. I am pretty happy with my suspension set-up, but it is not quite how I would like it and I know it can be improved on. I find it dives too much under braking and could be a little more supple at times. In other words, a more road biased, slightly sporting set-up. I would like 2 quotations please, one for replacing my fork springs with Wilbers progressively wound spring and replacing my rear shock with a Wilbers item with remote adjustable pre-load. The other quotations is for replacing the fork springs with Wilber's 50mm lower springs and a rear shock to match, again with the remote pre-load adjuster. My weight without kit on is 13.5 stone, so around 14.5 stone with kit. My riding style is varied from sporty/fast road to back lane (tarmac) exploring, touring and commuting. I ride solo 80% of the time, 2-up maybe 15% and very occasionally, 2-up touring. Here is the reply from the UK agent for Wilbers: Hello Mike, Only need one quote as to have them lower is No extra cost! Front springs are £85. If you need oil it is £8.50 Rear shock with you have 2 options 1. what you asked for, shock with optional hydraulic Preload £530 inc VAT. 2. I would suggest the fully adjustable model, better suited to fast road riding £545. This option does not have hydraulic preload but you can do similar adjustments using the High/Low speed compression adjusters. Full fitting instructions are included and we are only ever at the end of the phone if you have any queries. Cheers Pete I haven't gone for it just yet, because I am making further enquiries about WP equipment, but Wilbers are offering a "buy back" system when you change your bike and a 5 year warranty. | ||
| Thrux181 |
Marinus, Why do you think .875 maybe too much? What do you mean by tire grooving? I took some quick and dirty measurements. My preload is set a the lowest settings per the owners manual. The bike was on the side stand with the front tire straight. I got on and off the bike to "settle" it. I have a Drummer. The measurement to the ground for the front was 7'' and the rear was 7 3/8'' from the rear muffler strap. My idea is, if after the change you have a lower parallel line to the before measurements it shouldn't change the rake and trail too much. If you get a chance let me know what you come out with. I know there are a lot of variables but it would be nice to see if there are any notable differences. The expression "just enough knowledge to be dangerous" sometimes I fall into that category. Thanks, Bill (Message edited by thrux181 on April 01, 2009) | ||
| Marinus |
Thrux -- it just felt like I was riding "downhill". I'm still at .875" drop in front, trying it out. I backed off the preload on the STT shock to position #3. With the rear preload softened, the bike now sits low enough unladen for the stock kickstand to be marginal. Until I section/shorten that kickstand, I'm paying close attention to the slope where I park. Tire grooving is just using a heated u-shaped knife to cut bigger/additional tread into a tire. I decided the Scorpion Syncs needed some for gravel use. (what the heck do I know, but if they're horrible I'll just replace 'em). I stayed away from the center tread, and stayed away from the extreme edges -- the first to preserve tread life on asphalt, the second to try to keep ultimate cornering traction on asphalt. Cell phone shots below. Front:  Rear:  | ||
| Werewulf |
was the bike ridable with just lowering the rear shock and stock front fork height?? | ||
| Thrux181 |
Hey Marinus, Got any updates to share? Thanks, Bill | ||
| Marinus |
Werewulf- I took a spin with the STT shock before I lowered the forks, and it seemed normal enough; that was on pavement, fwiw. But read on... (I like the fork drop) Thrux, took a nice twisty ride today, including some single-lane asphalt, some pothole gravel, a touch of snow(!). I like the Uly set up as it is (STT shock in back, forks dropped .875", PrecisionMachine 1" risers) for all conditions. I was more confident on the gravel than before -- but who knows how much of that confidence is purely mental. The front end seemed to "hunt" less in flat gravel turns, there's more stability on unpaved surfaces. Had to cut about .75" out of the kickstand to account for the lowered suspension. I just hacksaw'd it, cleaned up the ends, and JB Welded a 3" internal bushing/reinforcement (a tight fitting bushing) in there. (Message edited by marinus on April 18, 2009) | ||
| Werewulf |
does the STT have the same swing-arm as the uly? | ||
| Froggy |
Yes, the X/XT/XP/SS/STT all use the same frame and swingarm. |
