| Author | Message | ||
     Tootal |
Well the last time my headlights blew out my regulator was allowing 17 volts at 4000 rpm so I replaced it and now it's 13.8 all the way to redline. Problem solved...until yesterday when I noticed my headlight was out so I replaced the bulb. I don't touch the glass either. It was working when I left for work but when I got there it was out. I met some friends after work and went home when the sun was getting low. I got on the highway and hit the brights and poof, there goes another bulb. I made it home before it was dark but now I don't understand what could be blowing the bulbs when the regulator seems to be working right. Any ideas? | ||
| Ronmold |
Excessive voltage and/or excessive vibration-shock are the only things I know of. Do you have a indash volt meter that you check? I have 4 H7 bulbs you can have if you pay postage ($3-4?) but switch to HID you will not regret it. | ||
| Tootal |
Ok, I just went out and plugged in the ecmspy. When I took the bike to the dealer I had one Trouble code, the muffler valve actuator. They installed a new one and I told them to check the actual valve at the muffler in case it was causing the actuator to fail. I get the bike back and I get a check engine light but then it goes out after a while. I start to notice that when the bike is cold it comes on easier when I accelerate. It's been going on and off now for three days. Well I checked it out and I have multiple codes. 1. Code 23, battery voltage too low. 2. Code 15, battery voltage too high. 3. Code 15, intake air sensor shorted to supply voltage or open. 4. Code 21, Active Muffler Control. 5. Code 21, Active Muffler Control. 6. Code 21, Active Muffler Control. What the hell did they do to my bike!!  | ||
| Werewulf |
ground!....i hate to keep using the G word, but it does make a difference.. put a star washer on the ground to frame headlight wire.. | ||
| Id073897 |
Check AC voltages, stator winding resistance and connectivity to ground. | ||
| Tootal |
Werewolf, I have already done my grounds although I just rechecked them and all is well. I guess the next thing is the AC voltage. When I tested my battery voltage the other day it was 13.8 all the way to redline, however, it was cold. I just let it warm up a bit and checked it again and now it's hitting 18 volts! That's a brand new regulator. I guess the AC must be frying the regulators. Well off to test some more. I hate electrical problems!!! | ||
| Tootal |
Well I just finished testing the stator. The book says that you should not show any continuity from any socket to ground on the 46 connector. Well I put my ohm meter in the beeping mode and it beeped on every wire! I was a little confused so I tested between the wires themselves and I was within specs. I started the bike and ran it to 2000 rpm's and got 35 volts AC at all combinations of wires. So is the stator toast? It seems to be putting out the right voltage but does not pass the grounding test. Is that possible?  | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Tootal, Yes, I think that it is possible to fail the ground test and pass the AC test. I also think that your stator is toast. Buell is clear in their instructions that with the stator disconnected there should be infinite resistance from the three stator wires to ground. When you run the AC test the stator plug is not connected. A single short or multiple shorts close together in a winding to the stator core may have little affect on the output voltage. You do not have a complete circuit with a winding short and the stator disconnected. | ||
| Id073897 |
. I started the bike and ran it to 2000 rpm's and got 35 volts AC at all combinations of wires This might still give the correct voltage, but not any more the required current and power. Been there, done that: http://www.ukbeg.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file= viewtopic&p=62481 | ||
| Loves_to_ride |
what is the best replacement bulb to use? mine just went out on the interstate tonite [low beam]. it is probably the 3rd since new, an '06 uly. | ||
| Florida_lime |
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1197 I have this in my high beam, and had it in my low beam before I converted to HID. 65W, but haven't had any issues at all in over 25,000 miles of use. Treadmarks also used it before the "Death Ray" conversion. | ||
| Gamdh |
I had a grounded stator .... at first I was checking the voltage and it would run up to over 17 volts, so I figured it was the VR that was the problem. So, I replaced my VR but that did not fix it. I eventually did the Stator ground test and it failed. So, I replaced the VR and the faulty stator... all has been well since. When I pulled the stator you could tell it was bad just by looking at it. Not the best pic..(my big head cast a shadow).. but if you look at the left side of the stator on the left you can see the windings look 'fouled'  (Message edited by gamdh on April 24, 2009) | ||
| Tootal |
Well I was afraid of that. It just pisses me off that I just finished changing to the XB9 primary and now I have to tear it all apart again. At 15,000 miles I think it really bad. At least it's easier to fix than a goldwing!! Thanks for your help guys. | ||
| Tootal |
Florida lime, I have blown three of the osrams due to my "issues" and have yet to ride at night to see any improvement!! I just ordered a new stator, VR and voltage gauge from American Sportbike and now I'll go order some more osrams! |
