| Author | Message | ||
     Court |
I suppose, like most owners, the fly screen of my Ulysses comes on and off about once a week. To date, I've crammed the interior space with everything from an E-ZPass transponder to a collection of relays for lights, Strebel blaster air horn and GPS. I've noticed that it's very easy to both cross thread the pesky little attachment screws and that the fly screen needs to be perfectly aligned. The other malady is that the fasteners with the hex button head strip very easily. Last week I stripped one. I figured postage from American Sport Bike was more than the part and lo and behold Liberty had one (yep, ONE) in stock. Last night I took off the fly screen. Took a 10-32 tap, started it in, added about half a drop of 4-in-1 oil and cleaned all 6 of the holes. TRICK: When that fly screen goes back on start the middle two screws first to hold the thing. Just get them started. Next use the butt of your palm to warp the fly screen so that the threaded hole is perfectly centered below the hole in the flyscreen. For some reason the folks at Buell made this tolerance fairing snug and if it's not lined up just right the threads get buggered pretty easy. The screws all went back in marvelously and I'll check the snugosity later today after a few miles. I'm getting ready for some longer rides and have been having a problem keeping the butt connector for the front right turn signal connected as a result of all the stuff I have crammed in the space. I think I have it resolved now but will be doing some testing next week through Pennsylvania or Connecticut (depending on my need and the way the chili or cheeseburger coin toss goes). CAVEAT: That itsy bitsy screw is something like $1.75. No kidding . . . I got an $0.18 Badweb discount on a 10-32 screw! Not the most I've ever paid for a good screw . . . but close. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Sometimes you find small treasures at Home Depot.... they have alot of SS fasteners to choose from  (Message edited by wolfridgerider on April 10, 2009) | ||
| Tginnh |
The method you describe is exactly the process I use. I have had a similar issue with the air box cover screws near the seat. I've had to take a tap to them. btw - ever have any issues with your ez-pass transponder not registering? I have a mount on my handlebar for it. Kind of an unsightly thing, but it always registers. I used to put it in the tank bag map case, but it would almost never register in that location. | ||
| Rwven |
Tginnh I have my EzPass glued to the inside of the top box cover. It registers every time. | ||
| Tginnh |
Even with a tank bag on? | ||
| Rwven |
Not air box, top box...travel trunk...whatever you call that thing that mounts on the luggage rack...of course if you don't run with luggage on my suggestion is not going to help you. | ||
| Jlnance |
I did the wolfridgerider mod on Wed. I hate those fly screen screws, the allen holes round out too easily. I got some 10-32 5/8" cap head hex screws and nylon washers and replaced the OEM fasteners. They aren't flush like the button head screws that came with the bike, but I'm not worried about stripping the heads out of them. Like Court, I've had to clean up the threads with a tap before. Aluminum really isn't a great metal for holding threads that get a lot of active use. | ||
| Hughlysses |
+1 Anti-seize is your friend. | ||
| Court |
>>>ever have any issues with your ez-pass transponder not registering? None. I really like those home depot fasteners. I may give it a try. My "goal" is to try to keep from buggering up the threads and having to tap it to the next size . . .although there is plenty of "meat" to do so. | ||
| Ronmold |
Court, how is your stebel mounted? | ||
| Xbimmer |
+1 Anti-seize is your friend. +2. I antiseized those holes once, right after I bought the bike and have had no problems since. They were very reluctant to come out the first time. I use it on virtually any steel fastener that threads into the aluminum unless my FSM states that red Loctite is required. I also bought a bunch of those stainless buttonhead screws at my local Ace Hardware, they work for the flyscreen, replaced the rivets on my chin fairing, relay attachments, and IIRC the timing cover. I carry spares in my tool bag of almost every bolt/screw on the Uly. | ||
| Ulyranger |
I too have gone through the same procedure as Court. Haven't gone the never seize route.....yet, but next time it's off NS is going on/in. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I've had mine in and out enough to realize that the time is comin. Been thinking about some helicoil inserts. | ||
| Ourdee |
Ronmold, Not Court, but have a look.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/444847.html | ||
| Etennuly |
Just a little tip. For any allen head bolts like these, I find the correct corresponding size torks bit and use a short extension with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It gives much better control than an angled, or "T" handle allen wrench. The biggest difference being that it will let you push a little angle to let the screw start straight. I also use torks sockets for the axle pinch bolts and brake caliper allen heads. The good brand name ones also fit better and won't round off as easily as even the best allen head wrenches. | ||
| Tootal |
+1 on anti-sieze. Aluminum likes to corrode and will lock up a screw if left in too long. A little anti-sieze goes a long way in preserving the aluminum and your sanity! | ||
| Ourdee |
I use blue loctite on the 6 fly screen bolts. | ||
| Pso |
TGINNH- I stripped out the air box cover screw. What size tappet and screw did you replace yours with or did you use a helicoil? I want to fix mine but also do it right. | ||
| Tginnh |
Pso - I stopped before the threads were completely bunged up. I used a tap to clean up the threads and am still using the original screws. I do not recall off the top of my head what size tap I used. Do you have a set of taps? If not, and you need to know the size to purchase or borrow, I'll get the size...unless someone beats me to it. | ||
| Xbimmer |
The screws are #10-32 X 5/8", stainless button heads. | ||
| Ulybrew |
Hey Guys, I just posted on a related thread about the screws. There is a Factory Recall on the original screws. IL Harley have the kit is a couple of days. Worth looking into! | ||
| Froggy |
Ulybrew, this thread is not about the recalled windshield screws, but the six stainless screws that hold the flysceen onto the fairing mounts. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I made powdered aluminum out of the bottom right flyscreen screw last night.. %^#^$$*&#&%@! | ||
| Rkc00 |
2 out of the 6 of mine are toast. Need to go to the next size up and re-tap. Mike Long Island, Ny 06 XB12X Red/Black | ||
| Tootal |
Try putting in some inserts, then your done forever. Don't use heli coils, although they might be alright for this application, but inserts are much better. IMHO. | ||
| Ronmold |
These may work, you need a 5/16-18 thread, drill a 1/4" tap drill hole. Will work for bottom 4 but top 2 are small. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZB82 | ||
| R32nj |
I have partially stripped a couple of mine while mounting the Madstad flyscreen to my Uly. I added anti seize today to make life easier in the future (wish I did that on the first go-around). If I want a more permanent fix, what solution would be the easier (Heli Coils, inserts, lock nut on the back, etc). I don't have any experience with this sort of thing or the taps/tools to do this myself. Anyone in the central NJ area have the ability/tools to install Heli Coils or inserts? |
