| Author | Message | ||
     99savage |
Low Beam Head Light Quit Working - Hi Beam - OK Fuse - OK Bulb - OK Continuity from Connector to Lights - OK Have Voltage to the White & Orange/White Wires - No Voltage to Yellow & Black  Picture taken from a previous thread concerning how to have both lights on when the Hi-Beam is on (I did make the wiring change.) Is there some kind of splice in the wires like the one that gave me fits w/ the turn signal? Am going to have to start removing the shielding from wiring harness again? | ||
| Ronmold |
Is bulb good? If you jump O/W to yellow with key on L-beam will light. If it does your H/L switch is bad. If not, bulb is out or wires to socket are bad. | ||
| Mnrider |
black-ground yellow-low beam white-high beam o/w is the marker light we hooked the low beam to for both head lights on with high beam. You should have pwr to the o/w with the key on and pwr to the yellow with low beam and to the white with high beam at the connector. If theres no pwr to the yellow on low beam you have a bad wire between the swith and connector or a bad switch. If you have your low beam hook to the o/w and you have good ground at the black then the bulb is bad. | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks fr the help. Absolutely positive Both Bulbs Good - checked 2 different ways - both OK - ditto fuse Have continuity on the Yellow Wire as far back as I can check it but no voltage Have continuity between Black & Ground The wiring diagram in the Manual is no help to this anemic intellect. - Yellow wire seems to dead-end @ the 2nd connector. Starting to suspect something internal in the Switch - If I Remove the Screws Holding the Halves of the Switch Together Will I Get Big Surprise w/ Pieces Flying Everyplace? Manual says it is not repairable | ||
| Crusty |
If I Remove the Screws Holding the Halves of the Switch Together Will I Get Big Surprise w/ Pieces Flying Everyplace? If you do, and if it does, then you'll have found your problem | ||
| Mnrider |
Just use the o/w to pwr the low beam thats what we use to pwr. the low beam when we do the head light mod.You don't even need the yellow wire.Make sure the connector terminals fit tight at the head light and that connector in that pic. | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks for the help - Found the problem in the little, metal, female qizmos crimped on to the ends of the wires & that push into the plastic connector. (Hint: When removing them cumshaw Mother's hair dryer - WHEN SHE IT OUT OF THE HOUSE.) The connections were "iffy" - No strain = electrically solid / Strain = sometimes yes - sometimes no. Soldered them - Not easy for an old man w/ limited periods of sobriety & busted up hands, working on a unsupported wire. | ||
| Mnrider |
Good deal Savage,those connections are tiny.  | ||
| Ronmold |
I'm concerned that the ground return in the headlight connector is not hefty enough to carry the current of BOTH lights being on at the same time. That's about 8 amps on those tiny connectors. I would hate to have a failure on the lighting system under the conditions of prolonged H-beam use, like a barren stretch of interstate late at night! Maybe one could use the now unused yellow wire/connector to double up the grounds, just insulate the yellow coming from the harness and join both sides to the ground wire. I'm converting to HID ballasts that draw less so it won't matter to me. | ||
| Werewulf |
ive considered installing one of those heavy duty headlight wiring relays from easternbeaver.com.... it comes with big wires straight from the battery and maybe someone can chime in who has installed one.. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I'm converting to HID ballasts that draw less so it won't matter to me. Better do some more research to be sure... HID ballasts can use DOUBLE the usual amount of power when starting. Once they are up and running, then you are correct, they use less power. | ||
| Ronmold |
I got the HID kit today, time to find some flyscreen real estate. I will wire the L-beam on always as transition time w/HIDs would give a few moments of darkness while they ignite, not good! I am going to make a circuit that leaves the headlight off until the bike starts unless I tap the passing switch. must do some research. Glad I have the service manual, the electrical is quite complex. | ||
| 99savage |
Ronmold: Please post what you come w/. Hand sketched wiring diagrams would be ideal. I found the wiring diagram in the Manual less than clear. The head light wires just seem to dead end. Can not even find the switch. - Might be just me. | ||
| Ronmold |
Years of practice reading prints helps a lot although I need my cheaters on for the tiny print. Had it for a week, about time I start taking it apart! | ||
| 99savage |
Ronmold: Since you can actually read the wiring diagram - Simple Question Why not just add New, heavy gauge, Ground Wires & run them directly from the Head Light Connectors to The Ground Screw that is right below the Headlights? | ||
| Ronmold |
Savage you must be a mind reader!, or just have common sense. That's exactly what I'm going to do. I will run a 10-12 gauge super-flexible (high-end car speaker wire with multiple strands works great for this) wire to the ground screw and solder all those multiple ground wires to that. | ||
| Ronmold |
Hey found better wire yet! silicon jacketed wire that they use in R/C cars (and robotics) will take flexing to no end and is heat resistant. I got some at the hobby store. |
