| Author | Message | ||
     Gamdh |
So, its raining and I decided to clean up the grounds under the seat and change the plugs etc.... I went ahead and pulled the battery tray and cleaned all contact points as well as the one pointed out in TT339 (from the grounded' thread).. all went well. Thne I started on the plugs.. and saw this...  Its the rear bolt on the Center Tie Bar Mount. Its near impossible to access as is..the only thing I could come up with was to cut a small peice of 8mm hex key... put it in the bolt and use an 8mm wrench to turn it.... it almost worked! It would work but it feels like the holes in the mount and the header are just a tiny bit out of line.. so have many attempts including trying to loosen the front... I'm at a loose. Other than the above.. nothing I have will fit ... Sooooo... I think my last option is to rotate the engine so I can access the bolts on the mount... unless of course anyone hear has any gems of wisdom?? | ||
| Rotorhead |
Will a ball end allen fit in there? Anyway, if it backed out you might want to get some thread locker on it. That would mean rotating the engine. Dr. Greg is the worlds expert on the task. He didn't want to be by any means, but in reality he is. | ||
| Sleez |
yikes... how many miles? warranty? any crashes? | ||
| Gamdh |
Rotor: not sure (don't have one).. but getting something to fit and actually being able to do something are 2 different things. Sleez '06 with almost 40K... out of warranty.... about 1 month ago I did low side taking a down hill right turn (20 degress out.. hit something slick)... was not going very fast ( less than 30)... picked the bike up and rode on to work. Aside from a broken hand guard, scraped frame puck and right side foot peg nothing look damaged. Not sure that had anything to do with this, but who knows. | ||
| Gamdh |
I have 2 jacks neither of which is a scissor jack...Sooo.. do I "have" to have a scissor jack to rotate the engine or can I just use my floor jack? | ||
| Crusty |
When I rotated the engine on my '06 Uly, I used a cheapo hydraulic floor jack, and it worked just fine. | ||
| Gamdh |
Thanks Crusty! It does seem to work.  Anyone know... how low can it go.. and do you have to keep the jack in place?? Also .. the manual never mentions the Throttle cables (does show them out in a pic), so I did not remove them.. they seem a bit tight...does this look right?  | ||
| Crusty |
That's the same jack I used! | ||
| Gamdh |
Of course.. the hole for the bolt appears damaged...(ie the bolt won't thread into the hole and you can see metal shavings in the bottom of the hole). So, my theory is now... back when I took my bike in for th 10K service the dealer screwed up the spark plug hole on the front cylinder. After a few thousand miles the plug came out... the dealer did replace the cylinder under warrenty...(and that was my last visit to that dealer) That was the last of many incidents with this dealer and the main reason I started doing my own work. Sooooo, seems like to much of a coincedance (given my history with them).. that they were the last one's to touch that bolt.. and now it screwed up.. pretty much every time they touched the bike.. something was screwed up when I got it back. (sorry for that rant..) So.. I think my options are - Hope that maybe the top few threads are only mildly damaged and I can tap the first few threads and that will fix it. - Install a time-sert... My question for anyone....do you think its possible to install a time-sert with the engine rotated down or do you think i would have to either disassemble the cylinders or completely remove the engine? | ||
| Mnrider |
Maybe you can just run a tap into that hole and clean up the threads,then put locktite on that bolt.I'll bet its just the top threads messed up. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Oh, yeah, that f'ing center tie bar mount...  I forgot to install it the first time I rotated the engine down and had to re-rotate it down to get that stupid thing in...then I put it in backwards and had to rotate again. THAT'S why I'm the expert in rotating.  I would try to salvage the existing threads. --Doc | ||
| Ulyscol |
I would imagine only the first few threads would be damaged. Seems to me if you just chase the thread you will still have plenty of engagement length. | ||
| Gamdh |
Thanks all.... I'm definitely going to try to salvage the existing thread before doing anything drastic... Doc.. figured you would recognize it!! | ||
| Ourdee |
Whoa Doc, Bad Karma puttin' a curse on the bike like that. Was that on there when it met the deer? | ||
| Jphish |
Gamdh - You might want to use a "thread follower" instead of a tap - removes less material and my experience is, it goes in easier. Use oil on it so metal chips cling better and they dont get left in the hole. j | ||
| Gamdh |
Thanks J... see if I can find one. An internet search on "thread follower" didn't turn up anything useful??? | ||
| Jphish |
OOPs - sorry Gamdh. Synaptic overload here. Thread CHASER is the proper term. | ||
| Jphish |
BTW - Sears has a set for about $50. Make sure it has the right size for your application though - it doesn't have every one in universe of possible sizes. If you have a machine shop in the area you maybe able to borrow one with a $20 deposit. Thats what I did for my KLR misaligned threads on the 'Doohicky' replacement. | ||
| Gamdh |
That works much better  (for the record.. that bolt is 3/8-16) I'll definitely give the Thread Chaser a try. Thanks! | ||
| Jphish |
Thats a relatively standard size - probably in the sears set. Good luck with the challenge - I havent had one yet that I couldn't salvage, provided it wasn't seriously stripped. Loctite is good for taking up any slack from loose threads. Cheers Pal. j |
