| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
55K on the original NTN's, got the new KBC's already and Harbor Freight is finally having a sale this w/e and I got their #95987 Blind Bearing Puller set for $30 and their #66001 Heat Gun for $11. I intend to try to use the collets from the puller set as part of a threaded extractor rather than yanking the bearings from the hubs. Install will be threaded rod/hardened washers, hopefully no trauma to the bearing recesses. My question for those in the know, do the rear sprocket and rotor need to be removed from the wheel, or will I get enough heat expansion with them attached? | ||
| Gamdh |
I would not say I'm "in the know"... but when I replaced mine, I did not remove the sprocket and rotor. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks, did you heat the hub, and how did you pull the bearings? | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Xbimmer, good luck with that blind bearing puller set. I tried it and it didnt work for me real well, I went with the pilot bearing puller....That seems to be a LOT easier and its a lot more compact. You can actually take it with you on any long trips. As far as heating, when using the pilot bearing puller I didnt have to heat it up but I did when I used that cumbersome blind puller. | ||
| Gamdh |
No, I didn't really heat the hub... I used the harbor freight tool and used the slide hammer that comes with the kit. It took a little patience.. but it does come out.. just keep working it and don't force the issue. My guess is heat would make it a little easier. Once I had one side out.. I used a big socket an extension to get the other side out. I really wanted to get one of these from pit posse http://www.pitposse.com/whbereset.html but at the time, they did not have the 30 mm that would fit the bearing (they do now). Based on my experiance.. this would probably work well. (Message edited by gamdh on March 15, 2009) | ||
| 12bolt |
I heated the hub, used the harbor freight tool but not the slide hammer, its to big to take along. I placed the puller in the bearing, tight! and the drove it with a bar and my hatchet/hammer from the other side of the wheel. Easy. By the way a jetboil works great to heat the hub! | ||
| Rays |
No need to remove the sprocket and rotor. I pre-heated the hub with a portable propane torch. A few quick passes in the bearing recesses and the bearings pulled in with so little effort I thought something had slipped with my threaded rod set-up. I got my dealer to remove the bearings foolishly thinking they would use the special HD tools and not damage my wheels. I won't turn this into a another story about mechanical vandalism - suffice it to say that you are much better off buying the removal tools and doing this part yourself. Make sure you read the manual as there is a sequence to this - disk side fitted first and the other bearing fitted to make contact with the spacer. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have a heat gun that does 1050 degrees F and I have color matched painted rims. I did not remove the disc or belt sprocket/pulley. Heat was applied to the hub around the bearing. I put a cold water soaked rag into the center of the bearing for a few seconds and drove it out with a 1/2" square bar stock. It came out quite easily. Installation was also easy, heated the hub again, cooled the bearing. Used a 1x2 piece of pine board to tap(almost push) them into place. No damage to the rim or paint, and bearings were able to be inspected without further damaging them. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Thanks for all the tips guys! Nice think tank we have here. My plan to use a 9-10" piece of threaded rod as part of both extractor/installer has already been thwarted, seems the threads on the collets are 9/16"-12, the rod is hard enough to find but coupler nuts seem impossible. Got the inspiration to use the coupler from the slide hammer, it came off easily and is threaded with what looks like 1/2". Taking the collets along on a trip is a good idea, never thought of that. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Dean- Maybe try McMaster-Carr for the coupler nuts or drill & tap collet for a more-standard thread? Oh yea, one other thing worth mentioning- the outside of my original bearings were relatively rusty and I think that was part of why they were very hard to remove. I cleaned up the wheel bores with a piece of Scotchbrite and gave the wheel bores and outside of the bearings a light wipe with synthetic grease to hopefully make them easier to remove the next time. (Message edited by hughlysses on March 16, 2009) | ||
| Xbimmer |
Dean- Maybe try McMaster-Carr for the coupler nuts or drill & tap collet for a more-standard thread? Thanks! Man what a candy store, they sell one coupler nut in the size I'd need, might work after all. The collets have a male threaded end I'm trying to match, d&t not an option but thanks.  |
