| Author | Message | ||
     Tginnh |
I've just about got my Palmer auxiliary lights installed and wired up, but I'm uncertain about which wire to splice into. I wired up my brake light flasher this am and got that one WRONG (snipped the wrong wire) first try. I don't want to make the same mistake with the headlight. I need to splice into the main headlight wire. The way I read the schematic: Black - ground White - high beam Yellow - ? Orange/White - main beam I think I want to splice into the Orange/White wire. Is this correct? Thanks. Pictures to follow once the install is complete. | ||
| Rwven |
If I remember correctly the Yellow is the European "City Light" which stays on all the time. Which wire you choose depends on whether you want the aux. lights on with the high beam, the low beam, or all the time. I assume you are using the main headlight wire of your choice to fire the relay and not to actually provide power to the lights? 110W continuous might be a bit much to ask of that wiring. | ||
| Tginnh |
Thanks, Rwven. Yes, I'm wiring into a relay. I want the lights on all the time. So, do I want Orange/White then? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I think yellow is low beam, striped is position lamp. If you want them on anytime key is on, and you're talking about your relay's trigger wire, just splice it into either the aux outlet's red wire, or the wire for the gauge lighting. A trigger wire is low- to no-draw, so you can use a low-amp circuit. Another option if you have a test light is, unplug the headlight connector. Ground one side of the test light (or multimeter), and hook the other side to (alternately) the yellow and striped wires. Whichever is low beam, it will go *off* when you turn on the high beam. Position marker stays on all the time the key is on. Do a search for the "high beam mod" here on BWB, it should tell you which is the position light and which is low beam. | ||
| Tginnh |
Ratbuell - thanks. I did the high beam mod a while back. Yes, I was looking for a relay trigger wire. Yes, yellow is the low beam - I checked the RhinoWerx site to verify. So, I guess Orange/White is the Euro Running light or what you referred to as the position lamp. Anyway, I tied into the Orange/White wire and it works fine. Also, I wired a 20amp toggle switch to the power lead. I tested everything before I mounted the switch and all worked as expected. After I mounted the switch and tested again, the low beam no longer worked. To make a long story short, the bulb was blown. I swapped bulbs and everything works great. Coincidence? Not sure what I could have done to blow a bulb. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Dunno about blowing the bulb, but if your toggle switch is the "light override" (i.e. "turn 'em off") switch, put it on the trigger wire. No sense running all that current through a switch if you don't have to, I've had too many of 'em melt or get wet and fail. Interrupt the trigger wire, lights go out, no stress at all on the switch. | ||
| Tginnh |
Dang! I thought about doing that, but ran it to the battery lead. I'm going to reroute all my grounds to the frame today, so I'll probably make that change as well. Thanks. |
