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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through March 02, 2009 » Hard Starting/Idling Issues on new bike « Previous Next »

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Hangontight
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My '06 Uly only has 500 miles on it (bought it brand new 1 month ago). Should I have to give it throttle when cold starting it? It won't start without staying on the throttle a little bit. Also, yesterday I went to start it and it was only firing on the back cylinder. I took out the front spark plug and it was soaked and black. After wiping it off and letting it dry, I put it back in and the bike would run on both cylinders but it's backfiring and not idling smoothly? WTF? It's a week before my dealer can 'look at it' and I'm frustrated. Any comment/help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Twisting the throttle at start up is not recommended, but if it's cold (below 50 F) I sometimes have to give it a little upon start up. Without the proper tools (ECMSPy) you really can't do much as far as adjustments. Maybe I'm wrong. You'll get more answers soon. Good luck.
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Ulyscol
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like your plugs are fouled. Start simple, change your plugs and your problem may be solved.

(Message edited by ulyscol on February 21, 2009)
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A little steady throttle is sometimes required to keep it running when it's cold (sub-50 degrees F as suggested above), but whatever you do don't "blip" the throttle before the bike has completely warmed up. That's a sure way to foul plugs.

You can bet this bike has been sitting in the showroom for ~4 years and has been cranked and had the throttle blipped hundreds of times. Lots of people have reported similar issues on new bikes- it's easily remedied.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't have to mess with mine (also an '06) under *50*, but under *20* degrees a little throttle helps kick it over. I'm talking a steady 5% twist until it fires, then release as soon as it kicks in.

If it is indeed a brand new '06 that I'm sure has had innumerable occasions of "fire it up, make it make the vroom vroom noise, then kill it"...I'm sure the plugs are fouled. Swap in some new ones and see if it's happy again. If it's still acting up but not as much, have them reset the TPS when you have your appointment.

Should it be this way? Nope.

Is it an easy, painless fix? Absolutely.
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Hangontight
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, thanks guys. I'm wondering if the dealer will give me plugs under warranty..I hope so. How in the world do you get at the rear plug? It seems like a real pain to get access to.
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Ulyscol
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The rear plug is easily removed using a universal and an extension. The trouble for me is getting the rear plug wire off. I use extended length plug wire pliers but it is still troublesome at times. Be careful when removing the wire and DO NOT pull the wire itself pull the boot.
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Hangontight
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ulyscol, LOL... I actually was just out in the garage and pulled the wire right outta the boot...whoops! I guess I learn the hard way!
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Mnrider
Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I turned my idle up just a little now it starts and idles much better cold,maybe after the engine gets broke in you can turn it down some.
I use a hook tool on cars to get boots off the plugs.Make or find a tool to gently pull up on the bottom of the boot while you pull on the top of the boot,as you found out they damage easily.
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Bienhoabob
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hangontight,
When you replace that rear plug wire, do yourself a favor and upgrade to some Magnecor Race Wires. Subject has been discussed about a year or so ago. Do a search. You'll like them.

Bob
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Hangontight
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Is there a non-harley spark plug that will work with a Uly like a Champion or NGK? If so which one? Thanks
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had this problem also. The dealer could not fix it and since it was a three hour drive there I started working on it myself. Found intake leaking. With ECMSPY you can see it if you have real low numbers on you TPS. This was what was causing my problem. Used several different seals until I got one to work. Now it starts easy no matter what the temps are. Since you probably don't have ECMSPY just set the idle after it starts cold. After it's warm if it's idling high then your intake is leaking. Warranty!
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Florida_lime
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autof ilter=1&part=NGK%2D6546&N=700+115&autoview=sku

It's what I use in my '07, and I've never had a problem.
With starting or fouling anyways.
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Hangontight
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thank everyone. I put some NGK's in this afternoon and it runs great now. I checked the oil after the bike was warm and oil came shooting out of the cap/dipstick. The dealer had waaay overfilled it. I also noticed oil coming up out of the air cleaner intake when I popped it off to change the spark plugs. I'm hoping that it didn't cause any other damage.
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Ulyscol
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hangontight,
Sounds like you are going through the exact same new uly owners stuff I went through. At my 1000 mile service the dealer overfilled the oil in my bike by about a quart. When I got home and checked the oil it came spewing out everywhere! After 10,000 miles and doing my own service the bike is great. Don't let these first few problems get you down.
Also pick up a service manual if you haven't already. It is an excellent source of knowledge for the bike. Just remember some of the torque values listed in the manual are a little overkill.
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Hangontight
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ulyscol, Thanks man. I decided to cancel my warranty appointment with the dealer and fix these items myself. I feel better about my mechanical skills than I do trusting a dealer who has done so many things so poorly. So far, the bike was delivered to me with 10 psi air in each tire, suspension settings way outta whack, overfilled oil, and fouled spark plugs. It's kinda disheartening because I like the bike so much but the dealer is doing their best to ruin it for me. I will NOT be swayed!! It's a sweet bike and I'll have it running tip-top by spring.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When the temps are below 45F or so, my '06 requires a little throttle also. If it is in the twenties, I hold it at about 2000 for about 40 seconds and then let it idle for about five to ten minutes(depending on how much gear I have to put on) then I take off.

When it is warmer I just start it and give it about two minutes with no throttle at all, before heading out.

A good rule also, don't be starting a cold engine unless you are going to use it. If it doesn't come up to operating temperature for several starts it will kill the plugs again, more importantly, it can cause condensation to form inside the engine and transmission causing the oils to foam with water.

Oil plug has an O ring. Tighten it just enough, not to book specs. Check the oil level when the bike is fully warmed up, sitting on level ground, on the side stand. Keep the oil level at the two bottom 'X's. Filling higher will pump it into the airbox.
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