| Author | Message | ||
     Mnrider |
Worked on my Uly yesterday. Switched the wires for low beam now have both lights on with high beam. Checked the fuel pump wires near fuel pump,the wire shield had some rub marks from tail section frame,ziptied it to fuel line. Put a velcro bazootie on my clutch cable to handlebar crossbrace to keep the cable down from trip meter view. All great tips from Bad Webers. I like the 616 tires,they dig trenches on dirt roads | ||
| Jphish |
Mnrider - Smart PM ! I have a 4,000 mi roundtrip in southerly direction in Feb. (get out of this f'n freezing, foggy, soggy weather for a bit) Before I do, I plan to do highbeam mod & check all the vulnerable areas we've been warned about - including the grounds and 77 connectors. Already did bearing check with tire change...and have spare belt in topcase. Had forgotten about the fuelpump wires - thanks for the reminder. j | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep, just did my highbeam mod the other day. I get to try it out tonight on the way home...in the snow. Wheeeeee  +1 on the 616s. We'll see if they work as well in a snowy parking lot (the lot is white; the roads are so salty it's not sticking..yet). (Message edited by ratbuell on January 19, 2009) | ||
| Thunderbox |
Just remember that if you do the high beam modification you can no longer use the park position as the headlight will also stay on then and kill the battery in short order. You need to put a switch in line with the high beam feed to disable the headlight when in the park position. | ||
| Sprintex |
But honestly, who ever uses the park position? | ||
| Jphish |
I only got 5 forward gears and neutral - no 'Park'. Good point though, if ya ever do need to use it. | ||
| Mnrider |
Yes the 77 connector,thats the 2 wire connector that gos to the voltage reg.If that carries 12 volts at all times and gets dirty that could cause an issue. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Yes it could:  | ||
| Mnrider |
Xbimmer did you bybass that connector and try it or did you get a new reg. and repair that connector | ||
| Skyclad |
I was in a situation that I needed to use the Parking Light position (flat tire on a busy unlit road). I had it one for about one hour. Bike fired right up afterwards. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Mnrider, I'll make a long story short. Bike wouldn't charge the battery, dealer "tested" it (warranty), proclaimed the stator at fault. I asked whether they checked the V/R, they said it was the stator. I informed them about the 77-connector problems, they said it was the stator. Week later when they replaced the stator it still wouldn't charge. I demanded they check the 77. They couldn't pull it apart, melted connector. I told them to take a hike (sort of). Went home, cut it apart, bought a new V/R, bought new male-end parts, fixed it myself. Have a Kuryakyn battery meter to monitor the system now, and bought one of these to replace the 77 one of these days:  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If it were me, I would have just soldered it together. What's a better contact than a connector? NO connector | ||
| Aussiexbox |
Okay slightly off topic to a bit,but here's my question,I did the headlight mod some time ago,but can or has anybody run with either 1 or 2 upgraded H7 globes to 100w each?and if so what was needed to do it safely,were relays required,extra fusing,what?any help would be greatly apreaciated,(Treadmarks you stay outta this,I want your lights  ) Cheers Phil | ||
| Mnrider |
I was wondering if those 25 dollar H7 bulbs I saw at the auto parts store would work and be brighter. | ||
| Greenman44 |
mnrider those will work, i have heard the best type a to get are the sylvania silverstars. I have yet to upgrade to these, I have heard these are really alot brighter than the stockers. I hope this helps some. Shawn | ||
| Treadmarks |
This is as bright as I would go with the stock wiring. I used them before the DeathRay conversion. From Rally Lights Light Output Halogen bulbs are available in Standard and higher wattage versions. Just as in the lamp next to your easy chair, a higher wattage headlamp bulb will produce more light. The relationship between wattage and Lumen output is not linear. The product of a light bulb is light and heat. Since bulbs are not 100% efficient, the amount of heat also increases with a higher wattage bulb. Only standard wattage bulbs are legal for highway use. Upgraded bulbs are sold for off-road, or racing purposes only. A high wattage bulb has a life less than half that of a standard wattage bulb. Many are manufactured with a target life of 50 hours!! The additional heat from the higher power consumption weakens the filament substantially - then the normal vibration in an automotive environment takes it out! Rallies use bulbs with wattages as high as 160, but they replace them before every event. Higher Wattage and your Wiring The rated output of an automotive lamp is figured at 13.5 volts (the output of a typical alternator), not at 12 volts as you might expect. If you loose 5% of the voltage due to voltage drop through small wiring or corroded connections, which gets you to 12.8 volts, you are only putting out 80% of the rated luminous intensity - for a 100 watt lamp that’s only 80 watts equivalent!! Typically, with noted exceptions, if you keep output of your bulbs at 100W or lower, you will have little problem with meltdown of the OE wiring or controls as long as the wiring is in good shape and all connectors in the circuits are clean and free from corrosion. Bulbs over 100W can cause melting of the connector, overheating of the wires and failure of the headlamp switch and dimmer switch. You do not want to replace the dimmer switch on most cars as it is very labor intensive and will cost hundreds of dollars for parts and labor. AUDI and Volkswagen are two makes that we warn against higher wattage bulbs. Do I Need to Upgrade My Wiring? Before you spend the money for upgraded bulbs, you might want to evaluate your wiring. First, with a good Voltmeter, measure the voltage output of your alternator. With the engine off, clip the leads of the Voltmeter to the alternator and tie them back so they don't get tangled in the belts or the fan. Start the engine and run it up to about 2000 rpm. Note the voltage and shut off the engine. Now move the Positive Voltmeter lead to the back of the bulb - you'll have to pierce the insulation to do this. Leave the ground lead where it was. Now start the engine again and turn on your lights. Note the voltage, shut off the engine, remove the test leads and seal the punctured insulation with Silicon RTV. If your voltage drop is over 1 volt, you have some repairs to make even before you upgrade your bulbs. Look for loose or corroded connections, loose or corroded fuses or relays. Repair any problems. More here. | ||
| Aussiexbox |
Tread,you are a wealth of knowledge yet again mate,thanks for answering my question,looks like I'm off to the shed to do some checking. Cheers Phil | ||
| Buellhusker |
Greenman44 I used to run those Sylvania Silver Star H7 lamps in my BMW & found out they did not last very long & only produced minimum increase in light and I always had to carry at least 2 spare bulbs on any long trip. Finally switched to HID and that was the best thing I ever did, the increase in light output was great, I am getting ready to switch my Uly to HID now. | ||
| Greenman44 |
Buellhusker, I would definitely like to upgrade to HID, I hadn't heard of the burnout rate of the silverstars, and that makes it a little less compelling. Would have to buy 2 pairs of $40 bulb packs=80 bucks. I have found HID kits for 199 doesn't take to many burnt bulbs to add up to HID cost quickly. Thanks for the info on that. Shawn | ||
| Buellhusker |
Greenman44 I have found the Sylvania Silver Stars at Wallyworld two to a package for $18.00 You can find HID conversion kits that have the Ultra Slim Ballast for $79.00 free delivery on Ebay and that is for two lamps, ballasts & wiring harness & shipped from the US with two year warranty. I have the HID 5,000K H7 bulb conversion on my BMW and you cannot believe the increase in light output and they run on less power input than the origional H7 lamp. I am definately converting the low beam on my Uly to HID 5,000K. A side note it seems to stop the deer in their tracks, we have a lot of deer around here and since I installed the HID in my Beemer the deer just stand there and stare into the light, however I would not guarantee that, possably others can comment on that if thay have any experience with the HID conversion. | ||
| Paul56 |
The fuel pump wiring issues involve the wires inside the tank (frame). The wiring to the pump chafes on the pump bracket. It isn't possible to inspect without removing the pump. After repairing mine and seeing how the wires are routed I would recommend preventive action to anyone capable of handling the drained fuel and doing the pump r&r. | ||
| Mnrider |
WOW This thread turned into a wealth of info. for us newbe's. I am going to look for a HID kit. 20 years ago I walked into our hometown HD dealer and asked it they were going to get BUELL,I got a stern NO. I have to go 50 miles to my dealer but its worth it. Thanks for your help. | ||
| Dnveloman |
80 miles to my nearest dearest. |
