| Author | Message | ||
     Flynuly |
1st off a HUGE thanks to Treadmarks, Maximum, and Markog and everyone else for the info on this link.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/317990.html?1203365015 I probably wouldn't have pulled off this swap without the info you posted. Never seen any photo's of the ignition switch so here is my first thread.  This photo has the old lock pin removed and new one installed.  Ignition switch connector was removed via two phillips screws on right side of picture.  removed cover by prying it off with a small common screw driver next to the three index pins. Rotate the ignition key to align cam and lift out center cam box.  I have access to a lathe at work (very quiet there today) as long as I provide my own materials. Lowes supplied the 3/8 steel rod for less than $5 for three feet (lots of practice material). Original pin measured .394 round figured .375 was close enough. Was shooting for a pin .5" longer than the original based on Markog's info in the link above. Ended up with a pin measuring .45 longer than the stock one, it engages the fork stop lock pin hole with no problem. Hope this helps someone contemplating the fork swap. Tim | ||
| Froggy |
Would it be possible for you to make some pins up? I know I would take one off your hands. | ||
| Skinstains |
Let's see a picture or three of that fancy Jims' vice/clamp thingy. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Great first thread Flynuly.  | ||
| Flynuly |
Froggy- send me a PM with your info and I'll see what I can do Monday at lunch. | ||
| Brag918 |
.394=10mm. My question is, will off the shelf steel rust? How about using some kind of stainless? | ||
| Flynuly |
Skin- My only complaint with the fork clamp was that the threaded rod could have been a couple threads longer. You will not be able to fit anything bigger than the 06 Uly fork outer tube. Came with a rubber protector but was unable to use it. Had to get a 1 1/4 deep socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to get the fork cap off. No marks on the fork.    Also used Jims #1776 spring compression tool. No complaints other than cost.   Pro Motion fluid level adjuster could easily be built from supplies at the closest medical supply store and some tubing from they hydraulic hose shop. Now I know. These tools will last a lifetime and are well made IMO. | ||
| Flynuly |
Brag918- sure stainless would be the metal of choice but this was the day after Christmas. Quick trip to Lowes provided the material for cheap. Thought about practicing with aluminum but the boss wouldn't look kindly on my using his tools and his stock (tools OK). Now off to find some 10mm stainless. Thanks | ||
| Tootal |
I'm going to be doing this swap in the next month or so. I'm changing my springs also. I was just curious, can't you break the fork tube nut while it's still on the bike and then loosen everything and remove them? Thanks for the explanation on the locking pin. It's looks easy enough to do. | ||
| Flynuly |
I would say yes you can. Don't try to cheap out...go get a socket to fit. It was ugly for a couple hours. Wrench slipped and messed up the top of the fork cap where the preload adjuster screws in.  | ||
| Tootal |
Flynuly, you said you were shooting for 1/2" longer than the 06 but ended up at .450" longer. Is this what it needs to be or did you cut it short and it still worked? Better yet can you give me exact dimensions on length, groove width, groove depth, and how far from the end does the groove start. I have access to 7/16" stainless and could turn it to 10mm, groove it, and part it to length. I can make a few of them once I get some time at work. (Message edited by tootal on January 03, 2009) | ||
| Markog |
hello all: i think i bought a 10mm hunk of round bar from mcmaster carr, it was cheap enough.as for the length .5 was a little long so .45 is probably perfect. +1 on the socket get the correct one or let me know, i'll mail ya one to use and you can send it back to me marko |
