| Author | Message | ||
     Allthegoodonesrtkn |
Can someone tell me the procedure to unfoul the plugs, on my 08xt. | ||
| Allthegoodonesrtkn |
This procedure does exist right? Maybe im thinking of the tps rest. | ||
| Id073897 |
The new DDFI-3 should do this automatically on demand, but as it depends on the configuration, it could as well been switched off by default. Didn't look at it in detail, as of no interest to me. | ||
| Jlpskydive |
Look here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=1056796#POST1056796 | ||
| Thunderbox |
If you drive 30 miles to work and one plug is not firing no procedure like this is going to fix the problem. I would be fixing whatever is causing a fouling plug problem. I have 23000 on mine and I have yet to have a plug foul or even miss for that matter. Some Ulys have had plug fouling problems but this is not normal and indicates something is not right with the bike. I would bet good money that 95% of all Ulys have never fouled a plug, this backs the something is wrong theory. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 2000 X1 never fouled a plug. My 2008 XB12X was delivered with a fouled plug but hasn't fouled one since. Too many cold starts to hear what it sounded like on the show room floor I think in my case. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've personally cleared plugs on bikes with this procedure. It really DOES work, but sometimes you do have to repeat it 2x or 3x. Had a Uly that was supposed to go out on a demo ride, customer was standing there, and we could *smell* fuel in addition to it running on one cylinder only. Used the clear procedure 3x, fired right up. Bike had about 25 miles on it at the time - too much new bike start-stop was all. | ||
| Freak |
my 04 firebolt was delivered to me new with a fouled plug, 06 uly has not missed a lick  | ||
| Chrisgrant |
Went to start mine up last night for a stress reliever and guess what. Fouled plug, again. On delivery the bike had a fouled plug and the throttle trick worked. They fouled again on and ruined my first ride so I went to local H-D (not Buell)  and bought new plugs and replaced them. I put on a Drummer last week after 2800 miles and went for a very short, very cold ride and parked it. Last night, the front plug was fouled. Cleaned it and rode. Today I find out that Buell plugs are specific for 08 Buells. Note the part number from Buell web site.http://www.buell.com/en_us/gear/accessories/produc t.asp?Menu_ID=2&ProductLineID=2&CategoryID=9&Produ ctID=4138 27794-08 $4.95 Spark Plug 10R12X Original Equipment Replacement Spark Plug. Features a ribbed core nose anti-fouling design. Fits '08 XB models. Maybe thats why mine fouled  (Message edited by chrisgrant on December 20, 2008) | ||
| Allthegoodonesrtkn |
So chris, what are you symptoms with a fouled plug. If I go out and start my bike right now the bike will start up and go into "choke mode" but the rpms will dip below 1k rpms and almost die, then return above the 1k mark. This goes on until I put it in gear and ride away. The bike will also make popping noises through the air breather. When I take off the bike will stumble and pop through the breather again. If I take the bike to around 5k rpms it also stumble there also. Does this sound like fouled plugs. Taking it to the dealership next week | ||
| Froggy |
Sounds like your AFV is way off. Reset it with ECMspy or go for a ride and keep it at 3000ish rpm for a bit. | ||
| Choyashi |
Fouling Will occur when spark plug tip temperature is insufficient to burn off carbon, fuel, oil or other deposits Will cause spark to leach to metal shell...no spark across plug gap will cause a misfire Wet-fouled spark plugs must be changed...spark plugs will not fire Dry-fouled spark plugs can sometimes be cleaned by bringing engine up to operating temperature Before changing fouled spark plugs, be sure to eliminate root cause of fouling | ||
| Ironhead1977 |
You have a faulty sensor, possibly ecu or ground. Take it in and let the factory trained folks correct the fault. | ||
| Ourdee |
Fouling Will occur when spark plug tip temperature is insufficient to burn off carbon, fuel, oil or other deposits Question: Could the SPARK PLUG CLEANING PROCEDURE heat up the tip and be the real reason that the problem clears up after about 3 cycles? I went out to start it the other day with the temperature at 4 degrees out. I was jonesing bad and had to have a fix. Bike would not stay running after 10 or 12 attempts. I opened the throttle, ran it up to 3 grand then let it idle at 1000 by itself. Reached down and found only the rear pipe getting warm. Shut it down and cycled the anti-foul 3 times. Turned ignition off, then started bike and it worked fine. Went for a short ride with only a coat, gloves and a helmet. Down wind leg was ok, then turned into the wind,  BRRRR! | ||
| Chrisgrant |
Easy way to tell is after it has ran, skipping and popping for a couple of minutes, one head will still be cold. Theres you problem. Thankfully mine was the front plug. Although its only a little bit of a pain, unless you accidentally pull the wire completely off  , its easier than getting to the rear plug. I was able to clean mine and ride. I still ordered 4 new plugs from a proper Buell dealer. If the throttle ignition thingy doesn't work, Take it out and try cleaning it or better yet, replace it. (Message edited by chrisgrant on December 20, 2008) | ||
| Ratbuell |
The plug cleaning procedure, in my understanding, actually fires the spark plug (as if the engine was running) for a number of seconds, without any additional fuel going into the cylinder. A "fouled" plug is still actually firing, just not strongly enough to ignite the mixture in the cylinder. Think "static electricity" versus "penny in wall socket", lol. By firing the plug repeatedly, it does heat up the electrode and "burn off" any fuel sticking to it, so the spark is strong enough again to ignite the mixture. Any time I have a fouling issue, and once I'm home again, I will pull the plug(s) and physically clean them with the wire wheel on my bench grinder (a sliver of sandpaper works just as well, in a pinch), just to get all the hard residue off and make it nice and shiny again. A quick re-gap, and back in they go. I haven't had a problem on my Uly, but my S1W, with its limited bad-weather usage, can foul them from time to time. It just gets mad at me for ignoring it all winter, lol. | ||
| Longdog_cymru |
Get a set of NGK Iridium spark plugs. | ||
| Chrisgrant |
Get a set of NGK Iridium spark plugs. What part number? Do they work well? | ||
| Ourdee |
From what I've found so far (cause I am going to get them); Part number for the 08 XT is DCPR9EIX if you go with the NGK iridiums. They are 12 mm thread and 3/4" length. The C in the number means that you can still use the same socket as the Champions that came in it. Buell suggests 0.035" for the gap. NGK ships them with a 0.030" gap and says don't adjust them, but if you do and break the center post they will not replace it for free. Come on, I stopped using the center to pry up the gap when I was 12. This plug is used on some ferraries, BMWs, and Aprilias. Denso also makes Iridiums and from what I gathered the proper temperature range plug from them is IXU27. I'm going with the NGKs.  PS get free stickers with the NGKs | ||
| Thunderbox |
I still maintain you need to get to the real reason the plugs are fouling. You may get a temporary fix but if you don't get to the real cause the same problem will return and most likely at the worst possible time. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Any fouling issues I've seen on XBs are on new bikes, that have gone through too many start/idle/shutoff cycles without being ridden. Short hops (down to the corner store for a loaf of bread) can also foul 'em. Recommendation is, if you're gonna start it, you should ride it for *at least* 15 minutes; preferably 30. Start/vroomvroom/kill = fouled plugs, in my experience. | ||
| Ourdee |
Thunderbox, Looking for your opinion, Mine is an 08 XT, 3000 mi. original plugs it sat on the dealer floor with, sat in unheated garage for 10 days, temperature was 4 degrees, Started stumbled and died a few times before I cranked the throttle open and started it. I don't plan on starting it again with out preheating it overnight with an electric heater. Do you think there is anything else I need to do?  | ||
| Thunderbox |
Were you riding it at that temperature? If not resist the urge to start it up because at those temps all you are doing is causing condensation to form in your oil. If you are riding well I hope the oil gets hot enough to burn off the water vapour. If it is just sitting get a hold of one of those battery tenders and hook it up to the battery and forgetaboutit until riding is again something you want to do. | ||
| Ourdee |
I rode it and it was cold to me. until riding is again something you want to do? That's all I want to do! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Again: DON'T START IT UNLESS YOU'RE GOING FOR AT LEAST A 15 MINUTE RIDE. All that coldstart fuel, combined with a cold chamber, is what fouls plugs. As noted above, an incomplete heat cycle adds to condensation in the oiling system. Incomplete heating can also lead, down the road, to leaking/weeping gaskets. Either battery tender and forget about it for the season, or be like me and get too dumb to come in out of the cold LOL. | ||
| Ourdee |
If the snow & ice would go away, I'd get too numb, er uh dumb to come in outa the cold. It was 12 below when I got up this morning. | ||
| Buelldyno_guy |
Just my humble opinion, I have found Buell's to be very sensitive to cylinder head temp. When you watch one on the Dyno using ECMS, you will note they always start in "Open Loop" using ECM specified warm up fuel and the A/F value will be in the hi 12's to low 13's. But here is where the user comes into the equation as soon as the 02 sensor comes up to temp the bike goes into "Closed Loop" and the ECM now tries to control the idle using the fuel value for the active cell but still using the cold start fuel if needed. Keep in mind the bike is not even close to operating temp yet. So being an old time race guy the operator wants you to hear how is his new Micron exhaust sounds, so he twist the throttle a little for you. Now this still barely warm motor starts getting some additional fuel from the acceleration tables. The out come is almost always the same, do this a few times and you can or will end up with a fouled plug. The new 10R12X plug was the fix from the BMC, these new plugs are the same heat range but have a different electrode allowing for the self cleaning process on the newer bikes, but they can be used on older models. The values used in the fuel tables are developed with the engine rear cylinder temp in the range of 300 deg F. From that point on everything is scaled by cyl head temp. So I think someone earlier suggested to ride it and to that I agree, start it and let it idle and then go into "Closed Loop" you will hear the idle. Now is when you need to ride it easy for a few minutes to get the cylinders warm. After a little while ride it like you stole it and everything should be OK. One last thing on the early bikes the fuel pump will cavitate before the low fuel light comes on. that loss of pressure will lean the bike out causing the ECM to want to drive richer. So if you spit and sputter into a gas station before you fill up, the AFV could be as high as 150% and can cause the plugs to foul as soon as the bike is started if you happen to let it idle too long. The fix for this is the same, once started ride the bike ASAP so it will start driving the AFV back down to around 100%. Hopes this helps Terry JT&S Performance | ||
| Ourdee |
Came back into town from "Christmas@TheOutLaws.com" and found it raining and 40 degrees out. Thats right I stuck an electric heater under Blue and let him warm for an hour. I had rode him 300+ miles from Indianapolis before it got cold and white outside. Then fouled the front plug at 4 degrees out and did a short ride. Well he fired right up with no complaints. So I got dressed and rode around for a while (about 30 minutes) so that he got warm and I could change the oil. 3000 miles on the clock 2000 since the last change. I looked for the NGK DCPR9EIX plugs at FlatOut motorcycles in Indy but they did not have any. Is there a sponsor here that has them or do I need to go to NGK.com . I prefer to order them through a sponsor if they don't rake me over too many coals.  | ||
| Allthegoodonesrtkn |
Well I think ive found the cause of this problem I had at the beginning of this thread. "Bike wouldn't stay idling and wanted to die". So I thought it could have been a fouled plug, but im sure this is the culprit now. Under the air breather cover there is a 4 or 5 pronged wire connection that im guessing has to do with air mixture? The connector wasn't plugged in all the way. This is what happens when you get your bike back from warranty work. Bike is running fine for now. |
