| Author | Message | ||
     Tginnh |
I get nothing from the starter switch - sh*t! Here's the events leading up to the failure today: 1) Took the bike out for about a 30 min. ride to get it warmed up. 2) Connected ECMSpy with the bike running to insure the engine temp was correct. 3) Reset the TPS and AFV and adjusted the idle again using ECMSpy to check the engine temp to insure I was adjusting idle at about 160c. 4) Road the bike around the block. 5) Stopped to shoot the sh*t with the neighbors. Turned off ignition. When I went to start the engine I got nothing from the starter switch. The battery is good. Normal startup pattern for engine check light and oil. No blown fuses. So far I have done a continuity check on the starter relay and I got a zero ohm reading. Did I muck something up using ECMSpy or is it coincidence? Any help on what the frig might have happened would be most welcome. | ||
| Hootis29 |
Check your sidestand, and clutch switches. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Can't imagine how ECMSpy could hose that up. I'd try disassembling the switch and cleaning the contacts first, or manually jumping the appropriate wires and see if it cranks then. | ||
| Tginnh |
Sidestand? Is that part of the starter interlock system on the newer Ulys? Mine is an 06. Sounds like a plan for checking the switch contacts. I had an 89 K100RS Beemer that used to have problems with the contacts in the kill switch. Thanks. (Message edited by tginnh on November 01, 2008) | ||
| Tginnh |
Ok, something weird is going on. I just noticed the brake light comes on when the front brake lever is initially engaged, but it goes out when the lever is pulled all the way back. Geezus! Gremlins! | ||
| Hootis29 |
Nevermind the sidestand thing, I'm retarded. does it do the same with the rear brake? Try holding in the starter button while pulling the brake lever. | ||
| Froggy |
Tighten the battery cables, make sure they are making good contact. Also if you got it, throw it on a battery tender or similar device. | ||
| Tginnh |
Duh on my part. The brake lights are fine. The front brake had me fooled because the switch wasn't touching the handlebars. So, back to just the starter switch. I threw a tender on the battery right away. I'll check the cables and put a charger on it tomorrow. Frick!!!!!!! | ||
| Court |
i just scoured the schematics and there appears to be no sidestand interlock. If you need anything from the wiring diagrams, let me know and I can scan what you need. | ||
| Tginnh |
Hey Court - thanks for the offer. Good to see you on this side of the forum. The Backfire board has been consuming too much of my time and energy... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Have you had the right switch housing off the bar for anything? Lots of times a wire gets pinched, no matter how careful you are....ask me how I know, lol. | ||
| Sparky |
You could try swapping the ignition and starter relays to see if that changes things. If it does, then the problem is most likely in the original starter relay. If nothing changes, then it's best to do some voltage troubleshooting around those relays to find out where voltage should be but is missing. | ||
| Rwven |
My shop manual for the '08 XBs shows a plug for the sidestand switch but no sidestand switch installed on US models. Is there actually a plug and if so does it have a shorting cap that may have worked loose? | ||
| Dio |
There is a neutral start switch on the transmission and a switch at the clutch lever IIRC. Try to start it while the clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar and see what happens. There is another thread on this forum that dealt with the dreaded "machine gun noise" when the starter button was pushed. The problem was traced to a neutral start switch that was defective. | ||
| Greenman44 |
I had the return spring in my starter switch go bad. I had to pull the yellow lever out and jump across the contacts inside to determine this was the problem. Maybe this will help. Best of luck Greenman | ||
| Etennuly |
If you haven't done it yet most of us '06 Uly owners have had to put washers under the bolt heads on the battery terminals. The bolts tend to be a tad too long and bottom out just as they tightened making you think all was good. Mine has done what you describe at least three times over the past two an a half years. Every time it was the battery terminals needing a re-torque. | ||
| Tginnh |
So, I just jumped across the contacts (black and white wires) and we have lift off! So, Greenman, did you just replace the switch? Hughlysses suggested cleaning the contacts. Either way - it's forward progress. Is that how this sort of thing happens - just all of a sudden, i.e., no warning? Something that has always nagged me about modern, large displacement cycles is the lack of a kick start. I have tried push starting the Uly on my own and call me a puss, but I couldn't get it done. I always liked my old british bikes for the fact that I could still manage to get 'em started with a broken kickstart and a dead battery! Thanks for the feedback all. btw - I did check the battery terminals first thing this am and they were a bit loose, but apparently this was not the problem. (Message edited by tginnh on November 02, 2008) | ||
| Greenman44 |
T- I did just replace the switch, you can't just get the start button switch you have to order the whole thing. They have the new 08+ right switch assembly for sale for about 45 bucks this comes with heated grip control I didn't get this just I just wish that I had. Anyways I knew for sure that the spring was the problem because when pushed the started button there was no resistance to go in, you can compare it to the horn. Also it would push out either. So I took the right side switch assembly apart and then pulled out the button part. Sure enough the return spring was smashed flat no springy-nes left. Trust me it is not worth the hassle trying to redo the spring coils. If this is the problem it needs a new assembly. To replace it takes about 20 minutes for me to do, probably 10 is trying to get the throttle to sit correctly again. Well I hope I didn't go on to much, and that I have help out in some way. Greenman | ||
| Tginnh |
Hughlysses had it - I disassembled the switch, took a jeweler's file to all the contact points and that did the trick. Like I wrote originally, I had this same issue with a Beemer I used to own. Pain in the arse. I was just discussing the issue with a neighbor and he suggested using Dielectric Compound on the contacts to help prevent the issue in the future. I had never heard of the stuff. Good idea? Bad idea? Thanks again. ps - everything is back together - no lost springs, bearings or screws! Sweet! (Message edited by tginnh on November 02, 2008) | ||
| Hughlysses |
Glad you fixed it. You can get dielectric grease at the auto parts store; it's basically silicone grease. It can help prevent something like this from arcing which can burn the contacts. |
