| Author | Message | ||
     Neurorider |
Well, my 06 Uly has dead rear wheel bearings with 11,600 miles. The rear tire is shot (Sync, at about 3000 miles, scalloped/bald/flat too) so I pulled both wheels to put 616's back on. Axle was nasty to get out due to no anti-seize/frozen to bearings. Rear bearings super gritty and notchy, can't even turn them by hand as they are almost frozen. I'm really glad I knew to check them! Thanks to BadWeb for providing so much info. Bike is on a pair of 5/8" steel rods and jackstands right now, no wheels. Gotta see if the local Yamaha shop has some of those Grizzly wheel bearings so I can get back on the road! Anybody get the new black seal Buell bearings yet? | ||
| David_e |
I had the same problem and they were replaced under warrenty. Do they make a better seal for them now? | ||
| Froggy |
The new seal is black. Thats about all we know at this time. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
hey do us a favor and pop off the seals with a dental pic. I want to know what you see in there. (pics would be awesome too!) | ||
| Neurorider |
Ok, here's the update. When I first jacked up the bike, rear wheel would hardly turn by hand and felt gritty/notchy. Pulled out the axle, which was a pain (yes loosened the pinch bolt first) and required a rubber mallet. Bearings would almost not turn. I bought a bearing puller and yanked them out...and then one felt almost normal, other is stiff and gritty but not nearly as bad as when in the wheel. No water in hub. I got new ones at NAPA; only local place that could get them by the next morning. The pic is of the bad bearing; both were orange sealed and marked NTN Taiwan. The one in the picture doesn't have much grease left in it, and feels somewhat gritty and tighter than the new ones. I measured the spacer and it was a bit longer than the distance it fit in between the inner faces; I took a tiny bit off of it and pressed the new bearings in, and they're totally smooth now. Bike feels smoother too! I'm thinking maybe the shop that changed my rear tire the last time overtorqued the wheel and the spacer caused too much side load. Or, the spacer was too long. Or, I need a springy-thingy tensioner instead of the stock one 'cause the belt was too tight? I dunno...any theories? I know I will pull the wheels myself from now on. Bike handles great with a 190 rear, btw. Easy fit, no interference.   | ||
| Froggy |
Well to debunk your theories, people have had failures before the first tire change, and the spring tensioner doesn't seem to help either. | ||
| Neurorider |
Like I said, I'm really not sure. Has anyone had a rear bearing failure of a bearing installed after installing a spring tensioner? I searched posts and didn't find one yet. I do know my belt has cracks on it and my rear pulley is worn out, which might be helped by a spring tensioner. In any case, the new bearings were SKF from Argentina, with black seals-and, the bike works well again. But I do need a new rear pulley and belt too! (Message edited by Neurorider on October 29, 2008) | ||
| Hughlysses |
Neuro- got any pics of your rear pulley? That's the first time I've heard of a worn out pulley. BTW- evidently the spacer is supposed to be slightly longer than the distance between the machined spaces in the wheel. IIRC one of the bearings is pressed in until the outer race seats in the wheel, while the other bearing is pressed in until the inner race contacts the spacer. | ||
| Neurorider |
I'll post some rear pulley pix tonight. Finish is flaking off at the edges of the teeth also, which manual says is cause for replacement. I thought the spacer was supposed to be a little longer; I only took "a bit" off with a file/carefully. Both races contact the spacer still, just not enough to bind up the bearings. | ||
| Gotj |
Hughlysses, Do you remember where you got the idea about the length of the spacer and installation procedure? It sounds bogus to me because you would be pressing on the inner race for one of bearings which is a quick road to failure. | ||
| Tootal |
If the spacer is longer that the wheel dimension then it's not a big deal because, as was said above, one of the bearings is just not seated on the OD but is on the ID and when you tighten the axle you are squeezing the ID but not putting any side load on the bearing. Now if the spacer is shorter than the wheel you are asking for big trouble! Being the anal bastard that I am I would like to see both the same dimension, then everything is seated nice and square with no reason for failure, other than bad seals of course!! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Do you remember where you got the idea about the length of the spacer and installation procedure? I'm pretty sure that was posted in a thread here. I haven't pulled my shop manual to confirm it. It would seem to make it significantly more difficult to properly seat the bearings without damaging them. | ||
| Teeps |
I found this interesting: http://www.engineersedge.com/bearing_types.htm | ||
| Xbimmer |
The new seal is black. Thats about all we know at this time. Here's one to ponder. I stopped in at Skip Fordyce today and the three 09's I looked at, a SX, a 1125R, and a 1125CR all had the black sealed bearings. Except for the CR. The rear wheel had a black one on the right and an orange on the left. What the heck? Anyway that red CR was a nice looking bike, except for the butt-ugly mirrors IMHO. The stock bar was really uncomfortable to me too, the R and XB-R feel just fine so it must be the reach. |
