| Author | Message | ||
     Desert_bird |
Many thanks Tipsy. Can I ask a follow up question: I used the stock harness to wire HIDs for both the high and low beams. Does this solution solve problems with drawing too much current through the main harness when the HIGH beam is fired up also? If not, Would I need a separate relay and lead each for the high and low beams? | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
I used the stock harness to wire HIDs for both the high and low beams. Does this solution solve problems with drawing too much current through the main harness when the HIGH beam is fired up also? If not, Would I need a separate relay and lead each for the high and low beams? I'm not quite sure I understand what you're asking. It sounds like you're saying that you've already installed an HID on both your low and high beam using only the stock harness. If this is correct, and you're wanting to rewire so that the lights are powered directly from the battery (or an auxiliary fuse block) you will need two separate relays. The low beam relay will be switched by the low beam power lead from the stock harness (or the Euro light lead if you'd prefer) and the high beam relay is switched by the factory high beam power lead on the stock harness. If you have no relays in the system and have simply installed the HID's with the stock harness, the draw on the system is actually less than with the stock H7 bulbs. The HID's only draw 35 watts. The problem is that there is an initial power spike when the HID ballasts are powered up. Wiring the system with relays and a direct power source will alleviate any potential problems the spike could cause. Tipsy | ||
| Desert_bird |
Many thanks Tipsy. Can I ask a follow up question: I used the stock harness to wire HIDs for both the high and low beams. Does this solution solve problems with drawing too much current through the main harness when the HIGH beam is fired up also? If not, Would I need a separate relay and lead each for the high and low beams? | ||
| Svh |
Desert- By stock harness do you mean the harness that comes with the lights or the harness that is on the bike? I think you mean the one that came with the lights but not sure and if so that may be what is causing Tipsy's confusion. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Sorry for posting twice. Trigger happy. Thanks for answering that question. Yeah, I've already got two HIDs wired to the stock harness and without any relays. I know that they draw less when hot, it's the high amperage draw during firing up which concerns me. I don't want any soft wires or shorts. I wish there was a way to avoid two additional relays and two more leads to the aux fuse box. Wires are getting all jumbled up with two ballasts, aux lights, and an air horn (on it's own aux line and relay) I pity the guy who opens it up in 20 years! | ||
| Froggy |
Desert_bird, I wouldn't worry about it. The huge initial charge is brief; I really doubt it will cause any damage. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Really think so Froggy? How do you figure? I'd much prefer enjoying the trip instead of doing more wiring. I've seen some burnt connectors on Uly's with HIDs and don't wanna be pulling all that crap apart for something that preventive maintenance could have avoided. | ||
| Froggy |
I am no electrical guy, but I have put continuous loads on the stock wiring with no issues. I had a pair of PIAA 510’s that were directly tied into the high beam line (165W all together), not even with the relay and switch that comes with the lights. Also on my SS I had my Zumo GPS, heated grips, Veypor race computer, ft_bstrd voltmeter, and low beam headlight all wired onto that euro light line. (Since have spread out stuff to prevent issues). Again no issue, no melted wires, no blown fuses, but I am not an electrically inclined person. I know a Badwebber that has a both the headlights on at the same time with both in HID (different kit). I will confirm if relayed or not, but I doubt it. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Well put. That's a great set-up as well. Thanks Froggy, for a little peace-of-mind . . . . . murphy's law not-withstanding  | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Froggy: "I am no electrical guy, but I have put continuous loads on the stock wiring with no issues. " It may not fail per se, but you won't get the fullest degree of light output from your lights if you run everything together (i.e., they won't be as bright). Also certain types of electrical equipment may fail (sooner) as a result of not having enough current available. Smaller gauge wire can work, but its not the best option. The manufactures use smaller gauge wire simply to save money - the appropriate wire gauge depends both on distance and load (peak and continuous). I used 10ga. marine-grade wire directly from my batt. to the flyscreen, and ran the lights from there - the idea being, I can alaways ad to it (via a small Blue Sea-type fuse panel that I have) at a later date, when I add my driving/spot lights, etc. and can maintain only the two wires directly from the batt. for all future expansion. Distributing the electrical service from under the flyscreen makes the best sense to me - no heat issues, lots of room and only two wires to route forward. BLUE SEA FUSE PANEL http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle t/producte/10001/-1/10001/81192/377%20710/0/blue%2 0sea/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N =377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=blue%20sea&Ntk=Primary%20Searc h&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=bl ue%20sea&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum =9&classNum=295 . Wiring Info/ Tech Data (with wire gauge chart): http://www.marinco.com/files/ANCOR%202008%20Catalo g.pdf . | ||
| Bertotti |
I was a little concerned about how long the ballast would last so I emailed. The reply was 14 month warranty and ballasts could be ordered from their site if needed. I haven't checked the price of just a ballast but it was one of my questions. I did order a kit and plan on taking a weekend this winter to wire all the bits in and maybe even finally get my 9 primary kit done. | ||
| Red_chili |
I'm just wondering how you guys squeeze the dadgum ballasts into the flyscreen area. Pix? | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
I am putting my ballast in the air box. I will post picks when it is in. | ||
| Odie |
I removed my horn as the bracket has broken twice now. I'm thinking about a Stebal (sp) and will relocate it. I put the ballast where the horn used to be. I thought about the airbox since my upper is completely gone. Plenty of room and you could see them thru the CityX plastics but I worry about the high heat down here in East L.A...... | ||
| Desert_bird |
I've got the stebel and both these HID ballasts. Red, I've got one ballast zip-tied behind the cowling, and one zip-tied right below the bracket for the horn, the bracket above the headlight. Fits fine and is out of sight | ||
| Red_chili |
I'd like to see a pic if you got one? | ||
| Desert_bird |
Totally. Give me half a day though. On the road now so have to get to a place to stop and open her up. | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Still gathering the stuff to complete the install in a bullet proof fashion. High temp wire says good for over 300 degrees, High temperature mesh to go over the high temp wire. Several 15 amps relays. The timing circuit has been built but not tested yet. Now just need 4 or 5 hours to install the entire mess. Installing a sieble horn at the same time...... I have a plan, hopefully a good one. (Message edited by lost_in_ohio on September 05, 2008) | ||
| Glenn |
Hi, I just did mine a week ago. I installed only in the low beam. At the same time I switched the wires in the white harness plug so that the low beam stays on with the high. I have a Philip's bulb in the high but it looks very yellow compared to the HID in the low. I'm not running a relay yet and may not.    | ||
| Red_chili |
Without a relay, with the wires swapped for low on all the time, your HID is drawing off the accessory circuit rather than the headlight circuit. IIRC, the fuse is even smaller. The relay is worthwhile as the wire is not sized for the inrush, as I was 'illuminated' (lol) by another BadWebber, above. It may not melt but 'tain't right and will limit current and turn it into heat. The harness is problematic enough as it is. Around 3 presidents to replace (on the XB9 at least, pretty much the same), DAMHIK... | ||
| Glenn |
Yeah, I'm in denial. running on the accessory circuit, which is protected by a 10amp fuse, I'm thinking that if the fuse isn't blowing than it can't be that high a peak. These are not slow blow fuses either. All that said, I still plan to run it with a relay when I get a chance. | ||
| Fubar |
Installed mine last weekend. The only tricky part was finding a place for both ballasts. Fun with zip ties was in order. I am a bit worried about heat as I tied them together to get them to fit. Relays on order, but working fine now. They are briiiight. Tested next to a buddy's bike and it was like the sun and moon. | ||
| Red_chili |
So how did you mount YOUR ballasts? Got pix? I kinda like Glenn's mounting, pretty darn sano. But where to put the second one? | ||
| Svh |
Ok got mine today and opened it up to just get a bit of a game plan before I do it in a few nights. My question is did you guys use that rubber grommet that the wires go through and if so how did you wire it up? I haven't opened up the stock light yet so I am not sure what it looks like. I plan on running both with relays and doing the yellow wire conversion. Can anyone help? Maybe a wiring diagram even chicken scratching would be better for me then what came with it. Thanks | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Cut the stock boot in a circle to match the one in the box and feed the HID boot thru it. | ||
| Glenn |
Lost, Take a look at the low res picture I posted above and you can see the hole I cut along with the piece I removed. Glenn | ||
| Desert_bird |
Hey chili, Sorry for the delay in getting these.   | ||
| Froggy |
Damn you guys and your huge ass flyscreens, I can't even get the air horn in mine  | ||
| Red_chili |
Wow, Desert, did you used to work in a Japanese company? You know, where they pack stuff in a box that you will never, ever be able to get back in the box once opened? Well, now I know it can be done. Hopefully without adding stress to the wiring harness where it enters the flyscreen dash. Thanks! | ||
| Desert_bird |
It can be done Red. I've put thousands of miles on with this setup without problem. Just a little clean packing and organizing up there. Good luck. |
