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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through June 09, 2008 » Treadmark's Idle Adjust Cable Relocation « Previous Next »

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Treadmarks
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So, I have be having to readjust my idle almost daily due to a pair of leaking throttle body to head seals. It really gets on my nerves that the idle adjustment cable knob is in such a pita location and that an allen wrench is needed to make a simple adjustment. Well today the bike was apart for intake seals and I decided to relocate the idle adjust cable.

In the factory location, the idle adjust cable is almost always in contact with the front spark plug wire and/or the forward portion of the main harness and throttle cables. Add a vent hose for the drummer catch can and you have a pretty big bundle of cables and wire in a pretty cramped and very hot location. Not to mention the fact that the factory idle cable placement almost always makes contact with the left rear portion of the front cylinder head which constantly gnaws at the cable until it chews it's way through.

Long story short....With the coil off and the coil mounting bracket exposed, find the left side on the mounting bracket even with the front mounting bolt hole for the coil. It is a sharp right angle and will need to be rounded off to prevent abrasion to the idle cable in it's new home. I used a dremel tool and ground a 3/8" groove across the coil mounting bracket to help retain the idle cable and not allow it to make contact with any sharp edges. With a groove there the cable will lay across the coil mounting bracket and pass beneath the coil once it is mounted.

With the left side air scoop removed, locate the factory installed center water drain hole (in the flat part between the cylinders). Enlarge this hole just enough to allow the threaded end of the idle cable to pass through. Slip the cable through the bottom and replace idle cable spring, then screw cable into idle stop bracket. Install coil using factory supplied spacers making sure the cable is not pinched. Replace left side air scoop.

Start engine and adjust idle as desired (without tools).



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Uly1080
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Very impressive Tread, as usual. I could have used this the past few weeks as I was in a similar boat, having to constantly adjust idle, but now that I have it right...I aint touching it again.
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Bertotti
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Any idea what caused the leaking? Seems like you just got that motor together.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jesus Treadmarks, you can't leave anything alone on your bike!

Bertotti, there have been a few people reporting lately with bad intake seals, but nothing that i would panic over like bearings.
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Bertotti
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I wasn't really worried just seeing how Treads caters to his bike I am surprised he hasn't stripped it down yet instead of messing with moving his idle adjust. I think he's tired!
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Treadmarks
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The motor went together 12k miles ago. I wasted the seals by heavy decel braking. I can't help myself, the micron is sooo sweet in decel mode. My factory moco seals were so wasted, that you could see evidence that fuel had been dripping from the bottom on both cylinders. Bolts were still plenty tight, it's just that the stockers can't hold their seal with the high level of vacuum of decel braking. I had some idle issues and suspected that they may have been leaking a little, but I had no idea that they were both leaking all the way around. Not to worry tho. It took about two hours to install the new seals and reroute the idle cable. The seals from dennis kirk are far superior to the factory seals. PAin in the ass to get in there, but once they are in I don't think they will be suckin air.

On a positive note, I noticed that the inside on my intake tract is clean as a whistle after 12k miles.

I wasn't really worried just seeing how Treads caters to his bike I am surprised he hasn't stripped it down yet instead of messing with moving his idle adjust. I think he's tired!

Well now that you mentioned it, I am a lil tired. I picked up a 12 year old beater car to set up as a foul weather vehicle. Just installed a complete new front and rear suspension and exhaust system, and it kicked mah old ass.



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Daveymac
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Tread,
Can you post a better shot of your breather (filter) routing & Catch Can?
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Treadmarks
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can you post a better shot of your breather (filter) routing & Catch Can?









And on the inside (note the extension tube which allows the discharge to remain below the surface and the scotch brite to help separate remaining spooge).







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Daveymac
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thank You
I have to move vent line with the K&N on it.
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Joenuclear
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Threadmarks,

Is this fix applicable to the 08 model?

Thanks for the info.
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Treadmarks
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Damn good question Joe.

I'm gonna guess that since the 08 has an Idle Air Control Valve that is controlled by the ECM, that it doesn't have an Idle adjust cable.

I like my idle a little lower than recommended at around 850-900. For me that is perfect for decel braking and it is just above the threshold of tripping the low voltage light on Fatty's CSI mod. I need about 130 watts just for my low beam + whatever else it takes to operate the bike. I know after idling about 30 seconds with both headlights on (260 watts) my low voltage light will turn amber till I bump the throttle or turn off the high beam.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You are correct, no idle adjust cable on the '08.
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