| Author | Message | ||
     Johnboy777 |
According to the Service Manual, if you want to cycle (Closed/Open/Closed) the exhaust valve actuator (that thing on top of the airbox that controls the muffler valve via a cable), you simply hold the throttle wide OPEN, turn on the RUN switch, then turn the IGN to on. Mine won't cycle. But, (after staying on, then turning off as normal) the light flashes twice, then four times - then stays off. No trouble codes present on ECMspy, either. Any ideas?? I may ride it without the cover on to see if its working. Thanks EDIT: BTW, I was behind a Corvette Z06 the other day and it looks to me like they have muffler valves as well. I could have sworn I saw some sort of actuators on the mufflers. . . (Message edited by johnboy777 on May 21, 2008) | ||
| 08uly |
I had the same problem... Bad actuator. It's being replaced now at my 5,000 service. I also noticed what looks like a trouble code (not sure what it means) but what I see is: 2 flashes pause 1 flash pause 4 flashes No intermission like with the trouble codes. So, 214 code? Anyone know what that means? --- 08Uly Uly Data Page Leader Boards  | ||
| Johnboy777 |
"..I had the same problem... Bad actuator." Yeah, what's interesting is that it hasn't activated a trouble code. John | ||
| Michael1 |
When mine failed it tossed up a check engine light. I forget the trouble code it pinged up, but when it truely fails, it'll toss up a check engine light. I tried to verify mine after it was replaced and it wouldn't cycle either. Took it back and the dealer checked it out and they said everything was fine. It will cycle now every now and then depending on the moon's orbit. Also, check your slack on the cable. The cable will stretch and and adjustment should be in order. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Not to stray off topic, but I'm pretty sure the 'Vette has a valve too. Some sort of electronic "cutout" that opens it up when the driver whacks the gas. If your muffler solenoid doesn't cycle, disconnect the muffler cable and try it again with no load on the solenoid. Maybe your cable or valve in the muffler is bound up; the solenoid could be "trying", but if there's too much resistance... | ||
| Johnboy777 |
"If your muffler solenoid doesn't cycle, disconnect the muffler cable and try it again with no load on the solenoid. Maybe your cable or valve in the muffler is bound up; the solenoid could be "trying", but if there's too much resistance..." Thanks Ratbuell, will do. That is a strong spring on the valve. If the actuator is dead, I plan to wire the valve open, until I can get it in to the dealer. Come to think of it, I recently disconnected the actuator when I had the top off to check on the sludge build up. Perhaps when I hooked it up again, something happened. John | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Johnboy, I took my cover off to verify that the actuator worked and found that you really have to hammer the throttle wide open for it to do anything. That was last year. It will not open under just tooling around type throttle use. Make sure you are on a good straightaway and that no cops are around. Looking down to catch that valve actuator working is kinda of a pain and dangerous since you will be accelerating hard to make it work. With the fake tank cover off the intake honk is real loud, especially if you've added holes to the air box cover. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Johnboy, I took my cover off to verify that the actuator worked and found that you really have to hammer the throttle wide open for it to do anything. That was last year. It will not open under just tooling around type throttle use. Make sure you are on a good straightaway and that no cops are around. Looking down to catch that valve actuator working is kinda of a pain and dangerous since you will be accelerating hard to make it work. With the fake tank cover off the intake honk is real loud, especially if you've added holes to the air box cover. Thanks for the heads up. I hate to admit this, but I plan to SuperGlue a coat hanger wire with a little flag to it, so I can see it moving without looking directly at it. After all, I did grow up on a farm  . | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Well, I duct taped a plastic zip tie with a little flag on the end ... no movement whatsoever, nothing. Okay, no biggie, so then I disconnected the cable from the actuator, pulled it all the way out ... the muffler valve works perfectly. Snaps closed, as well. Tried to cycle the actuator ... no go - it must be toast (dry, Jewish rye) Then I pulled the cable all of the way out (which opens the muffler valve fully), then got a small Vise Grip and attached it so it kept the gable pulled tight and the muffler valve fully opened ....Cheesy Rice!, I drove around with the muffler valve open and found that I could pull away from a stop at 1,000 RPM and accelerate away. Then I tried 1,500 RPM in first gear (about 10-15 MPH) and cruised the neighborhood ... it rode perfectly, none of that herky-jerky mechanical bull ride rodeo show...it was great. Finally I idled up my drive at 1,000 RPM ... nice. BTW, the sound with the muffler valve fully opened all the way, is only slightly loader (that seems odd to me, for the the muffler valve hype) , but produces a much better riding experience, and idle was way steadier...go figure. Maybe this is 205 for all you guys with Drummers, or Spec. Ops ... but damn, what a big difference with just a slightly freer flowing exhaust ... oh yeah, I had the cover off as well. I think I may wire it open permanently. John | ||
| Ggggary |
Is there a way to (test or switch) the activator with jumpers? Alternately anyone got a clever cable "pull" handle mod? Messing with a new to me 06 Uly |
